Two days of airline delay: Roissy & home
Day 138 – Roissy I
Overnight American Airlines had been texting my phone, which was in sleep mode. The first message had delayed my Friday Paris-Charlotte 10am flight to 6pm. Then a minute later, to 10pm. Then15 minutes later I was switched to the 3pm flight. And an hour after that, the 3pm was canceled. Five more minutes and I was booked on the 3pm flight for Saturday. All this text messaging took place while I was asleep (and unaware.)
When I woke up at 5am to close up the flat and then book a ride to the airport, I didn’t look at my phone until I was ready to use the Bolt app. Since American never explained what had caused this activity, I was concerned about overnight lodgings and booked a room at the ibis Style near the airport for one night. And I decided to take a nap and get up 2-3 hours later.
While napping, American rebooked me from the Saturday 3pm flight to the Sunday 10am flight. I booked a second night at the ibis, and headed out to find breakfast. Walking around the block, I had to stroll by a park where an open-air market was underway, finding a café where I could have coffee, OJ, croissant and bread with jam. While there I texted my Florida driver to let him know that I’d arrive two days later in Sarasota. Plus the couple who had checked my house were to stop in Sunday to get the fees due, so I asked to push back to Tuesday, a day before they left on their vacation.
Next came a flurry of emails and voice messages, all from offices wanting confirmation of appointments I had for the first week I’d be home. Needing to wait until 9am in Florida, I resolved to handle everything once I got my room in Roissy. Back to the flat, I pulled my bags outside, locked the door and put the keys back into the lockbox.
By the time I was to the street, the Bolt driver was there and we soon headed north out of Paris. Arriving at 10am, the hotel wanted 30€ extra for early access, so I sat and waited an hour when they booked me into room 471. I asked that I be allowed to stay in the same room, was told it was okay, and to remind the front desk the following morning.
Up in the room, I connected to WiFi and made calls, leaving messages for the exterminator, medical lab and the urologist’s office. I sat down with a map and figured out a circuit I could take, and requested a multi-stop trip with daytrip.com for Saturday. About noontime, I was ready to explore, and left the hotel and walked into the village of Roissy.
Roissy-en-France is a small village due east of the Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG). The hotel is to the north of the village, very near the access road to the terminals. I set out and walked the Avenue Charles de Gaulle into town, passing the town hall and visiting the sole church there: l’Église Saint-Éloi. Being near the edge of town, I turned back, looking down pathways between houses and wandered into the Parc de la Mairie. Off to my left construction was underway on the street and sidewalks, so I nimbly made my way to visit the Carrefour to get OJ, wine, a salad and dressing.
Street in Roissy approaching the Town hall Front facade of l’Église Saint-Éloi in Roissy Roundabout at the end of the village road in Roissy Covered driveway in Roissy Alley between homes in Roissy
Returning to the room, I had the duvet swapped for a sheet. Daytrip.com came back with an acceptable charge, and I booked my trip for Saturday. Putting together a salad in the bag of lettuce, using a wooden fork, I had lunch with a glass of wine while I began to write up this report. I wanted to create a blog, but the small screen of the netbook made placing photos difficult, so I gave up and took a nap.
By 6pm I was antsy to get out, so headed back into town, checking out the restaurants on my way. As none were serving until at least 7, I dropped into Le Friendly, a bar/pub, that served beer and wine in a pleasant “back yard” setting. Sitting on a stool at a high top, I quaffed a couple of beers. I reviewed their menu, but opted to not eat there as there seemed to be a great dependance on fried foods.
Practically across the street was Le Village Brasserie, where I sat to dine about 7:30. From their full menu, I started with paté de campagne du moment, which was great. For my main, tagliatelles aux noix des St Jacques et chorizo croquant, which I found awesome with a good blend of flavors and spices. And I went for dessert, nougat glacé et son coulis prestige (fruites rouges), which was much larger than I anticipated, but delightful.
View of the dining area at Le Village Brasserie in Roissy paté de campagne du moment at Le Village Brasserie in Roissy tagliatelles aux noix des St Jacques et chorizo croquant at Le Village Brasserie in Roissy nougat glacé et son coulis prestige (fruites rouges) at Le Village Brasserie in Roissy
Day 139 Roissy II
Arising at 8, I headed downstairs after 20 minutes into the restaurant for the included breakfast buffet. I dined on cheese, ham, croissant, pain au chocolat, juice and coffee. I headed back to the room to collect my camera, bag, glasses and phones before returning to the lobby to await my driver. I checked with the receptionist regarding staying in the same room, which seemed to fluster him. He suggested I revisit the issue at noon (when he finished) but I stated I’d been told it was okay. Choueb, a French-Pakistani, was prompt arriving at 9 in a black Hyundai Ioniq. Having learned with my Rodez booking, I’d confirmed the route with him via WhatsApp the day before, and reviewed it as I got into the front seat.
We set out for Arras, 160km to the north northeast. We zipped through beautiful countryside before driving into the heart of the city. The Cathédrale Notre-Dame de l'Assomption et Saint Vaast d'Arras is a large cruciform building at then end of a block on a hill filled with trees. Choueb parked on the street to the rear, near the Abbaye Saint-Vaast, which was closed for restoration. I headed uphill and then left onto Rue Méaulens which parallels the main axis of the cathedral to reach the corner and the entry. I moved down and up Rue des Teinturiers, getting the shots I could, before climbing the stairs to check the closed red door. Directed down to the side, I found a sign advising the church was open only from 2:30 until 5 in the afternoon on Wednesdays through Sundays.
Entry facade (direct view) of Cathédrale Notre-Dame de l'Assomption et Saint Vaast d'Arras Signage at side door entry indicating open hours of Cathédrale Notre-Dame de l'Assomption in Arras Statue in garden, Cathédrale Notre-Dame de l'Assomption et Saint Vaast d'Arras Signage outside (under restoration) Abbaye Saint-Vaast, Arras Main entry facade, Abbeye Saint-Vaast, Arras
As it was 11am, 3+ hours were too long to wait. Exiting Arras, we stopped at a transit hub where we had a coffee while the car took a charge, before we headed 50km southeast to Cambrai. Sitting back from Avenue de la Victoire and a broad plaza, the Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Grâce-et-St-Sépulcre had a similar Baroque façade to the cathedral in Arras. Open, I headed inside.
The interior is bright, white, clean and large with three aisles. Large stained-glass windows fill the clerestory, while the aisles are a black-and-white diamond checkerboard. Large ornate altars fill the ends of the south transept, where the icon of Our Lady of Grace is displayed. To the north, an entry portal. Work was being done in the apse, a small scaffold and a covered pile of materials between the high altar and the main altar table. There is an ambulatory, where side chapels line the outer wall.
Floor plan, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Grâce-et-St-Sépulcre, Cambrai Main aisle nave towards apse, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Grâce-et-St-Sépulcre, Cambrai High altar in sanctuary, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Grâce-et-St-Sépulcre, Cambrai South transept altar, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Grâce-et-St-Sépulcre, Cambrai Icon of Our Lady of Grace, Cambrai Cathedral Clear-glass window, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Grâce-et-St-Sépulcre, Cambrai
Out front, and across the avenue, I was able to get shots with the west-facing façade and the large belltower adjacent to the north transept. I was shooting into the midday sun in a cloudless sky, so I sought some shade from the trees nearby. After contacting Choueb, I was back in the Hyundai and we were heading due south to Saint-Quentin, 40km and 45 minutes of countryside.
Not a cathedral, the Basilique de Saint-Quentin is a pilgrimage point and important church to visit. [An information placard within includes Saint-Quentin in a comparison of “Les 7 Cathédrales Picardes”.] Continual building started as an abbey church in 1170 with the tower and the apse, the nave completed the structure in 1454. Multiple fires occurred, and, as Picardie has been in the path of wars, serious damage happened during the German occupation of World War I, with restoration continuing for 65 years.
The tower over the western entrance is Romanesque, with the flying buttresses visible behind. Three aisles in the nave, five beyond the crossing with a double aisle ambulatory. The nave walls and columns are clean, a light gray limestone. At the entrance, a large black-and-white labyrinth in the floor greets visitors. Remnants of murals are on chapel walls; the stained-glass windows are a mix of old and modern.
View of the south facade of Basilique de Saint-Quentin Floor plan for Basilique de Saint-Quentin Labyrinth at entry of Basilique de Saint-Quentin View of nave seating towards apse, Basilique de Saint-Quentin Stained-glass rose window, Basilique de Saint-Quentin Mural on chapel wall, Basilique de Saint-Quentin Reliquary of Saint-Sulpice, Basilique de Saint-Quentin Archeological fragments, Basilique de Saint-Quentin
Finishing with the basilica, we continued southwest another 45km and the more heavily forested sections of Picardy. The former Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Noyon (seat from 12-13th century until 1801, now part of the diocese of Beauvais) is situated near the center of Noyon.
Stolid dual towers rise over the narthex, with the cloister walls continuing to the north. Three aisles of second stage Gothic, chapels only fill the ambulatory walls. Renovated in the last 5 years, the walls, columns and vault are all soft white stone, with galleries above the side aisles.
The main altar has been placed at the crossing, the quire and high altar remain within the apse. The tile flooring between the choir stalls is an Escher-like pattern. At the crossing and into the transept arms, the elaborate carvings in the vault are remarkable, like nothing I’d seen before. Also, this was the first cathedral I’ve visited where there was a gallery above the ambulatory, forming the ceiling for the chapels below. The cloister wasn’t impressive: an expanse of mowed lawn with a well in the center, the surrounding walls showing only former arches on three sides.
Nave central aisle and vault, Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Noyon View of gallery above side aisle and below clerestory windows,, Noyon Cathedral High altar in apse, Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Noyon Tile flooring in the quire, Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Noyon Groin joints of arches in vault, Noyon Cathedral View of north tower from cloister, Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Noyon
Finished at 3:15, it was another hour before Choueb dropped me at the ibis Style. He had asked if there were any other sites to visit on the return, but I said that I wasn’t aware of any, although I could have asked to stop at the former cathedral in Senlis, thus completing the list in Picardy. Back in the room, I checked in with American Airlines, finished off what was left of my food and wine, packed again for the return home, backed up photos and did some emails. At the front desk I ensured I had a ride to the airport the next morning at 6:48, paying the additional fee. Upstairs again, I laid out my clothing, and, after writing up my day in my journal, went to bed.
Day 140 – Return
The alarm had me up at 6, and I was downstairs and then outside with the other anxious guests awaiting the van. The first filled, leaving me and one other, and we both created a big fuss at being left behind. A second van, from a sister hotel, came and got us, and whisked us off to the international terminal. I got my boarding pass, checked the big bag, went through security and then strolled through duty free. Pulling out my phone in the lounge, I reviewed a few emails and then pulled out my paperback.
The flight was called, and I didn’t get the extra legroom seat I’d prepaid for, making me cranky. We eventually got to Charlotte, where I breezed through immigration, found my bag to push through customs and then recheck. I checked with the customer service agents regarding compensation for the extra two nights, being given an URL to file a claim. The puddle-jumper to Sarasota left at 4:40 pm, and two hours later I was waiting on my bags at the Sarasota-Bradenton carousel. Pushing it across the rug in Baggage Claim, I triggered my hip pain, so I hobbled out to wait on Bobbie, my local driver.
I got home safely, and after opening the big bag, loaded the washing machine. While the laundry ran, I got the house back functioning, unpacked my luggage, and began making lists for the following day’s shopping and medical appointments. It was great to be sleeping in my own bed again, with my pillows.
Final statistics: 20 weeks, 38 days cruising. 64 beds. 263 cathedrals. About 23K pictures. This trip report is 200 pages in Word, about 115K words.
You can purchase your own copy
(or have me send it as a gift) of
Cathedrals to the Glory of God
by clicking this link:
Volume II has been released
You can order your personal copy
(Print on Demand)
Cathedrals to the Glory of God
Volume II
by clicking this link:
Comments