Four days based in Paris
Day 134 – Paris I
The alarm was set for 8:30, which is when I woke. I was across the street turning in the hotel key at 9:15, and then walked the rotary to the Bourges train station. The 9:54 TER train to Orléans would be on Voie 2, so I used the overhead walkway which had working lifts for both up and down transport. Luggage space was available at the carriage door, so both bags stowed, I climbed the half flight and grabbed a seat.
An hour later in Orléans, I had to switch to a bus. (No Eurail timely trains to Paris.) As it turns out, there are two bus depots in Orléans, the one for Paris unmarked. After getting a coffee and Nutella muffin, I wound up in the wrong seating area until 20 minutes before the noon departure. Finding the correct depot and queue, I learned I needed to check-in first, then load my bags underneath before boarding. A reserved seat, fortunately no companion, as the “himbo” in front of me had his seat fully reclined. I had 2 hours to read my book on the Orthodox Church as we rolled along the highway.
Early into the Gare d’Austerlitz, I collected my bags, crossed the Quai and the Pont de Charles de Gaulle to get across the Seine River. I was booked into a B&B on the Rue de Charenton, and I would be just a tad early for the 3pm check-in. I rolled the bags past the Gare de Lyons on Boulevard Diderot. Another half dozen blocks of wide shaded busy sidewalks, and left a block and a half to the outer door. A phone text gave me the code, and I then walked through two arches and left to pass several doors. On the left in the back corner was the door to my flat. A key was in a lockbox, and then I entered my home for 4 nights.
A small efficiency flat, the low queen bed took up much of the back wall. Stone pavers for flooring with a rug, there wouldn’t be space to leave the larger bag open. On the right hand wall was a small kitchen and the bathroom. The minifridge seriously needed defrosting, and I was unable to freeze water for ice. I unpacked my toiletries, pulled several days clothing out, and decided to check out the unticketed visitor queue for the cathedral.
View of Notre-Dame de Paris from the east, approaching Ile de la Cite View of Notre-Dame de Paris from the east, approaching Ile de la Cite View of Notre-Dame de Paris from the east, approaching Ile de la Cite Western Facade of the Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris
The flat I stayed in is in the 12th arrondissement, and it would be a 2.5km walk along the Seine to cross to l’Île Saint-Louis and then l’Île de la Citie. I caught my first sighting of the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris just before 3pm, but joined the queue to enter about a half hour later. In the meantime, I thoroughly enjoyed walking along the streets of one of my favorite places. A bateau mouche cruised by, an excellent way to get an orientation to Paris.
The queue, while seemingly a maze zigzagging over the cobblestones, kept moving almost non-stop. Probably 15-20 minutes later I was inside, in awe of how different the interior looked from my last inside visit 15 years ago. Post 2019 fire restoration, the cleaned limestone gleamed in the sunlight and lighting, revealing so many splendors. Unlike before, the controlled number of visitors allowed for individual pauses and inspection, space to turn around, stop, and pause.
Entry door for tourist to Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris Signage with footprint, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris Central aisle of Nave, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris
Notre-Dame de Paris has five aisles, with the pairs of side aisles continuing as the ambulatory around the sanctuary. This sacred space is within an enclosing wall, its outside filled with carved stories from the Old and New Testaments (as in Chartres), but these are painted. The back of center aisle was filled with seated visitors, many part of the multitude of guided tours into the church. Others were resting, praying, checking their phones. The front of this aisle is cordoned off, solely for those who would be praying.
Apse vault over the sanctuary, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris Main altar, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris Bishop's throne (cathedra), Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris Reliquary of the Crown of Thorns, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris
My focus shifted, first on the stenciled and muraled walls of the side chapels, to the glorious stained-glass windows, and to carvings of wood and stone. The rose windows of the transepts got some attention, as I also spotted the archbishop’s throne and the 13th Station. I was pleased with the many multilingual guards, who were friendly and helpful. However, I didn’t find that spirituality I hope for when I visit a church; there was just too much humanity, too touristy, a focus on retail. After my “tourist visit”, I slipped through the cordon, put down my camera, and found time to contemplate and pray.
Outside walls of the quire, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris Inside walls of the quire, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris View of the gallery and clerestory windows, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris Ceiling boss of the Virgin and chilid, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris The cockrel from the roof, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris Stained glass rose window, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris
Departing, I spent time outside looking for that spot that I knew existed, where I’d get a representative shot of the cathedral. Two years back, the south face had been behind scaffolds and canvas, and while repairs were still underway, much of the beauty was visible. Several construction cranes foiled the side views, and plywood barricades still set a no-go perimeter, but I left satisfied that the camera had the shot.
Crossing to the Left Bank, the booksellers along the quai allowed no breaks to get some shots at a distance, and holding the camera above my head didn’t result in anything great. I was keeping an eye out for “the shirt”, a souvenir, without luck. While moving further downstream, I got several decent profile shots of Notre-Dame.
La flèche (The arrow), spire of Notre-Dame de Paris Cathedral South facade view of Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris acroos the Seine River Bookseller stall, Seine River bank sidewalk South branch of the Seinr River at Ile de la Cite
Crossing l’Île Saint-Louis, I chanced on L’Etiquette, a “bio” vinotique. Wine shop as well as tasting bar, there was an empty stool out front and I joined a pair of women from Hong Kong (one, Penny, now living in Canada.) Shortly thereafter, a couple from Liverpool (Jeremy lives in Grenoble) joined the party out front. The proprietor is a jolly Frenchman with great British English. Mixing whites and reds, the conversation was excellent and the wine mighty fine.
Signage at L'Etiquette wine shop, Ile St Louis, Paris Shop floor, L'Etiquette wine shop, Ile St Louis, Paris Outside sipping space, Signage at L'Etiquette wine shop, Ile St Louis, Paris
Parting ninety minutes later, I finished crossing to the right bank, and watched a jamba class on the shore line.
Following the riverbank, I got back to the flat, dropped the camera, checked email before looking at Maps to find an open restaurant. (It was a Monday evening, in August, and I knew that vacation time had arrived.) Le Penty was nearby and open, so I headed there with my journal, arriving just after 9pm. Minimal kitchen, it was more a local bar, so I ordered a croque monsieur with a pression and wrote up my day.
Along the banks of the River Seine in Paris Street scene inthe XIIeme Arrondisement in Paris Supper of a pression (draft beeer) and croque monsieur
Planning for the following day, I spent some time over the second beer working on options. There were three cathedrals to the west of Paris, in suburbs I could reach with the metropolitan transit system. The one in the northwest, Pontoise, would be my starting point. While I had surface options for the next two, I resolved to review them once I was ready to move on.
Day 135 – Paris II
Although I was up before the 8:30 alarm, I still didn’t get out until 10. Cash was due for the flat, and I had collected five 50€ notes which I folded into the lockbox as I left. Unfamiliar with the trains, I went to the nearby Gare de Lyon to catch a train to the Gare du Nord. (Which, I’m convinced, is the busiest of the Parisian train depots.) I wound up spending more time waiting for the RER there, which I could have reached sooner via the Metro. In any case, I got to the RER to Pontoise, which was at the end of that line. From the train station, it was a straight climb up the hill to the Cathédrale Saint-Maclou de Pontoise.
Just after 11, the half kilometer 3-block walk took 10 minutes. With a single tower at the western entrance ahead, it would have been hard to get lost. This former 12th -century parish church had become the diocesan cathedral in 1966; it was built in the Flamboyant Gothic style with Renaissance additions. Lopsided, a fourth aisle to the north tower side gives an uneven feel. (The side aisle to the south is on the descending side, so another aisle would be unstable.) Backlit in the partially cloudy skies, the Place de Petit Martroy allowed for pictures without distorting parallax.
View from train station up the hill to Cathédrale Saint-Maclou de Pontoise Central aisle of the nave of Cathédrale Saint-Maclou de Pontoise Resurrection scene, Cathédrale Saint-Maclou de Pontoise Choir stalls, Cathédrale Saint-Maclou de Pontoise High altar and sanctuary, Cathédrale Saint-Maclou de Pontoise Boss, groin vault, Cathédrale Saint-Maclou de Pontoise
Groin vaults top the aisles, supported by circular columns. Most of the stained-glass windows featured story-telling; statuary, oil paintings and murals continued that function. Small side chapels honored saints. The chapel-lined ambulatory encircled the choir, where the two-level high altar is placed. The carved wooden base main altar sits just outside the arch of the apse, with the simple cathedra to the north. I spotted an interesting series of bosses in the groin arch of the apse vault.
Heading down the hill and contemplating the trip to Nanterre, it would be 90-minutes and 2 or 3 trains/buses to get there, I checked Bolt (European competitor to Uber) and the 35-minute direct ride was 45€. I opted for the easy way, and soon we were on the A5, bordered by a lot of greenery. Nanterre is a maze of one-way streets, so the driver dropped me at the end of the block and I walked the curve to the Cathédrale Sainte-Geneviève-et-Saint-Maurice de Nanterre.
Formerly a parish church, it also became the bishop’s seat in 1966. Built in the 1930s, it almost felt futuristic compared to the many other cathedrals I’d visited in Europe. A large arched window faces west into an empty plaza, flanked by two narrow bays of glass, topping the entry doors. I used the southern door, coming into a space very reminiscent of an Orthodox church. Greek-cross in footprint, the north and east arms end in a curved wall; the south and west are flat. The peak at the crossing (from the outside) is a bowl-like dome inside, with the barrel vaults in the arms keeping that curve. Murals fill the dome, pediments and vaults. The altar at the crossing faces seating to the north, east (main) and west.
Sanctuary under the main dome, Cathédrale Sainte-Geneviève-et-Saint-Maurice de Nanterre Reliquary of Sainte-Geneviève, Nanterre Cathedral Nave vault mural, Cathédrale Sainte-Geneviève-et-Saint-Maurice de Nanterre Choir seating, Cathédrale Sainte-Geneviève-et-Saint-Maurice de Nanterre Baptismal font, Cathédrale Sainte-Geneviève-et-Saint-Maurice de Nanterre Main altar, Cathédrale Sainte-Geneviève-et-Saint-Maurice de Nanterre Organ console and pipes, Cathédrale Sainte-Geneviève-et-Saint-Maurice de Nanterre Stained glass window, south facade, Cathédrale Sainte-Geneviève-et-Saint-Maurice de Nanterre
The organist and choir use the north arm (the pipes are on the south wall), the seating rising. (I found a sleeping man in the back rows of the choir pews.) There is a Marian chapel on the south wall, opposite the tower, while there is an older, large closed chapel to St Genevieve in the northwest, venerating her relics. The south wall is filled with stained-glass in an arch, medallions around the outer edge, larger medallions forming a cross within. The entire color palette inside the church is soft vegetal shades, which I found calming.
Sitting outside the Nanterre Cathedral, I examined my options. It would be 3 different rides and 75 minutes to get to the cathedral in Versailles, but Bolt would be 30 minutes and 20€. I decided to waive the public transit option again. The driver used the A86, which took us over rolling hills as we headed south. I’d only visited the Palace of Versailles on my first visit to Paris in 1977, so it was an interesting return. He dropped me in the parking lot to the rear and east of the building.
The Cathédrale Saint-Louis de Versailles was built in the mid eighteenth century, but not consecrated for 100 years. Baroque in architectural style, double columns are a primary feature of the north-facing entry façade. Short capped towers of black slate top the towers of both sides of the flat north exterior, and another tower rises at the end of the curved apse. A larger ornate dome sits over the crossing. The slate contrasts with the near uniform white limestone of the outer surface.
Central aisle to crossing, Cathédrale Saint-Louis de Versailles crossing, with raised main altar, Cathédrale Saint-Louis de Versailles High altar between arches, Cathédrale Saint-Louis de Versailles Stained glass window, St Louis, Cathédrale Saint-Louis de Versailles Signage with floor pland of Cathédrale Saint-Louis de Versailles Detail, main altar, Cathédrale Saint-Louis de Versailles
With three aisles, the sides are lined with chapels, some gated off, some open. The central barrel vault has cuts for the large clerestory windows. Rectangular columns, the arches are topped with carved plaster shields and flourishes. At the crossing, on a round raised platform, a cubic silver-and-gold clad block serves as the main altar. I reflected on the markedly different styles of the three cathedrals I had visited that Tuesday.
Plaza in front of Cathédrale Saint-Louis de Versailles Street view, business district, Versailles Architecturally intriguing housing complex, Versailles View of Jardin des Étangs Gobert, Versailles
Deciding to take the RER back into Paris, I had a short walk to the C-line Versailles-Chantiers station. I wound up walking through the Jardin des Étangs Gobert, following paths which didn’t offer a descent to the station entrance. The overlook did offer me an interesting view of a housing complex. By a quarter to three I was on my way back into the city. We had a wait at La Defense, which meant I’d taken the longer route back, but I had time.
Exiting at Gare de Lyons, I hurried to the flat to use the facilities. I had contemplated getting a salad for a late lunch, but deferred. The flat was hot and stuffy, so I opened the window over the kitchen sink and left the door open. (Yes, I did check to see that the “rent” had been collected.) Sipping my Skopje gin neat and munching on some nibbles, I rested on the bed while I got Facebook loaded with the three cathedral pictures and some email. My right shoulder and back were complaining, so I just lay back and rested.
Having not had any food all day, I was a bit too early for most dining options. Down the street and around the corner I found La Grille, an Algerian restaurant where I was able to start with a Suze as I started writing up the day’s travels. Ordering couscous avec poulet et merguez, a delightful salad of finely diced cucumber and tomato started my meal. A glass of a dark rosé and carafe of much needed water came as the pot of meat and vegetables, the bowl of couscous, and dishes of white raisins and chickpeas filled the table. I put aside the journal and phone and dug in – such a treat!
My Suze while I journaled at La Grille in Paris A view of La Grille in Paris before the evening crowd Salad and bread, La Grille in Paris couscous avec poulet et merguez at La Grille in Paris
Day 136 – Paris III
Waking to the 8:20 alarm and heading soon to the Gare de Lyon, the plan had been the D-line, but too many wrong turns had me on the A-line out to Saint-Maur-Créteil. My research then sent me first on a TVM bus to Choisy and its cathedral, another 20-minute ride. In Choisy, the bus stop was directly across from the rear of the Église Cathédrale Saint-Louis Saint-Nicolas de Choisy-le-Roi. The plywood over the windows gave me bad vibes.
I walked around the north facing church on the east, getting adequate front shots from Place de l’Église. The sign on the wall indicated the church would be open daily in the mornings, and I was there at 10:15 on a Wednesday. A Baroque façade, the entry door was locked and a placard told that the now ex-cathedral had that function from 1966 to 1987. A call to the rectory went unanswered.
Signage by the entry to Église Cathédrale Saint-Louis Saint-Nicolas de Choisy-le-Roi Main entry doors, Église Cathédrale Saint-Louis Saint-Nicolas de Choisy-le-Roi Side view of Église Cathédrale Saint-Louis Saint-Nicolas de Choisy-le-Roi and neighboring park
Back to the bus stop, I waited for the return TVM. Following its progress, I offboarded sooner than expected, as I was close to the cathedral in Créteil. After a 650m walk (15 minutes) along the Avenue du Général de Gaulle, I came to the rather modern Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Créteil. Built in 1987, destroyed in 2013, it had been rebuilt in 2014-15. Striking exterior, the white bleached wood surface of the structure contrasted with the black clamshell of the dome. I approached with great hopes to visit the interior.
To no avail. Front doors locked, no answer to ringing the bell. I walked the entre exterior, trying every door. An hour had passed since I had been in Choisy, and the sign on the door seemed to indicate that it might open at 3pm. The sign also included that the building would be open for an art exhibition. That was just too long of a wait for the possibility of access, especially since it was August. (Actually, a major feast day, the Feast of the Transfiguration, and my sister’s birthday.)
Sitting on a bench in the shade of the trees, I considered my options as I'd seen the two cathedrals on the list for the day. I could return to Paris, rest my hip and maybe hang out in my favorite part of the city, the Marais. Or I could travel east to the sole cathedral on my list for the following day. In the end, I opted for the trip to Meaux. A 15-minute walk to the bus stop at the hospital put me on the #100 bus for three-quarters of an hour with 6 stops. At the Gare de Torcy, I changed to a #7718 to ride another half hour (2 stops) to get off in the marketplace.
A view of the riverbank along the Marne in Meaux A view of the riverbank along the Marne in Meaux Poke salad with berry smoothie for lunch in Meaux
Another 15 minutes on foot and crossing the Marne River, I stopped for a lunch of poke salad with a berry smoothie, as the church was closed until 2. A 2:15 I arrived at the Basilique-Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Meaux. Approaching from the south near the apse, I passed the open doors of the south portal to view the main western façade.
The tower at the southwest corner was wrapped in scaffolds and tarps, covering about half the western face. I continued my circuit, pleased that that there was sufficient depth to the surrounding space. Originally built in the Romanesque style of the late 12th century, repeated rebuildings yield the present Gothic structure. Well preserved and subject of the government’s restoration efforts, it is truly a gem.
View in the nave of the columns and side aisle, Meaux Cathedral Clear-glass window, Basilique-Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Meaux Chapel in Basilique-Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Meaux View along the ambulatory, Basilique-Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Meaux Vault of the apse, Basilique-Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Meaux Sanctuary and high altar, Basilique-Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Meaux
With 5 aisles, the 48-meter height is emphasized in all the vaults, particularly that in the center. The outside aisles are wider than those between them and the central aisle. At 85m long, the nave is considered “short”. I found the lighting to be good, as a result of much of the window glass being clear, although the apse had traditional colored stained-glass windows. The ambulatory has an iron fencing protecting the sanctuary and its red carpeted flooring. The quire in front has a black-and-white diamond patterned tiling; the wooden seating lightly carved.
Departing view over neighboring roofs, Basilique-Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Meaux Bicycle repair shop window in Meaux using manga
After an hour inside, I continued to try to find a good representative photo, but sheer size made that difficult. Heading to the train station after stopping in the Tourist Office, I got a ticket for a non-stop ride on the P-line to Gare de l’Est. I was back in Paris in half an hour. On the ride I posted the 3 phone shots of the cathedrals to Facebook, and checked a few Notifications. Once in Paris, my left hip was painful. A surface bus would have been great, but I got stubborn and decided to walk; the Metro would have involved changes underground.
Monument in the square Place de la République , Paris Street art mural, Blvd du Temple, Paris Street art mural, Blvd du Temple, Paris Street art mural, Blvd du Temple, Paris Street art mural, Rue de Lyon, Paris The Opera Bastile Theater, Paris
Almost 4km, if I stuck to the straight path of Google, I was familiar with Boulevard Magenta, passing through Republique and Bastille (including passing the “new” Opera House). Walking at a slow but steady pace, I looked in shop windows for bargain t-shirts without success; street art caught my eye; I contemplated a rest stop for a Suze, but I didn’t spot a welcoming watering hole. At Place de la Bastille, my street branched off, and I walked from #1 to 99. Once in the flat, a pee break!
Reclining on the bed with the door open, I sipped on more of the gin, without ice. By 7pm, I was recovered enough to walk back up the street to a wine bar I’d passed, Ici-même. Two glasses of red: ’22 La Pompadour and Château Douzens, both Corbiéres. With a truly loaded charcuterie plate of sliced meat and pieces of cheeses, plus cornichon and paté, I was sated when I left to walk back two hours later. The journal had been updated, and I was thinking of options for my now “free” day, my last in Paris.
Bottle of ’22 La Pompadour. red Corbiéreswine, at Ici-même, Paris Elaborate charcuterie platter at Ici-même, Paris Charcuterie platter ingredients, Ici-même, Paris Bottle of ’22 Château Douzens, red Corbiéres wine, at Ici-même A view of Rue de Charenton, Paris XIIeme
Day 137 – Paris IV
Around midnight I had a WhatsApp call from my friend Graham in Guadalajara, who suggests I return to St Sulpice and try to catch an organist playing on the 6000-pipe organ there. However, from my notes, I apparently decided to try for one more cathedral, heading further south that Créteil to Corbeil-Essones. I head out on the RER D-line from Gare de Lyons, riding for 50 minutes.
A kilometer-long walk to get to the Co-cathédrale Saint-Spire de Corbeil-Essonnes
(full cathedral for the period 1966-95). Built over five centuries, the architectural elements run from Romanesque through Flamboyant Gothic. A single belltower is over the narrow western entrance, overlooking the Essonne River. The street envelopes the cathedral, with houses and shops opposite. At the east end, an arched gateway heads east towards the north-flowing Seine.
No open doors, and the July-August signage indicated that the building might be closed on Thursdays. After walking a circuit, I wandered a bit in town, taking a different route back to the RER station. The city streets were narrow and empty, but I have some nice shots along the smaller river. After about an hour in Corbeil, I headed back on the train to Paris.
Quiet street in Corbeil A view of the Essonnes River in Corbeil Crossing the Essonnes River in Corbeil
Leaving the RER at Chatalet, I headed into the Les Halles district, so I could visit l’Église Saint-Eustache, my favorite church in all of Paris. A wonderful Gothic structure in the old central market of Paris, I’ve probably visited it on every trip into Paris since the first in 1977. And I have more pictures than I need, so only a single shot with the phone this time.
View of L'Eglise Saint-Eustache in Paris Street scene in Les Halles district of Paris Street view on Rue de l'Arbre Sec, Pairs Arch at Porte Saint-Denis, Paris
Continuing to wander with the intention of going to Le Marais, I wound up again at Gare de l’Est, and then the gate of the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise.
Street scene towards l'Eglise Saint-Laurent, Paris Bar gate, street art mural, Paris Retail space gate, street art mural, Paris Boutique gate, street art mural, Paris Street art mural on building wall, Paris Pedestrian bridge over canal lock, Paris View of the Canal Saint-Martin, Paris Gate to the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise, Paris Lunch salad at the Vietnamese bistor Ham & cheese omelette mixte for lunch
Leaving the 20th Arrondissement, I grabbed a bite at the border of the eleventh at a Vietnamese Mom&Pop Tabac/bistro. Salad, omelette mixte (ham and cheese) with frites from the plat du jour came to 12€. At that point, I recognized that I was quasi-lost, and used Maps to get me through the 11th into the 12th and the flat.
My host had sent instructions on how to prepare the flat for my departure, so after I packed the large roller for my flight, I tackled the kitchen. I still had some gin, bread and cheese, so I had an afternoon snack to finish. Once the dishes were all washed, I went for a stroll to see if I could find nibbles for the flight, and perhaps “treats for the crew”, but wasn’t lucky. Backing up the camera and phone, I checked online and did my check-in. For supper I went to the café next door, Bar 101, and journaled while I had my parting glass of wine.
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