France: Nevers, Moulins, Bourges, Limoges
Day 131 – Nevers
The first day of August and a week left in my trip; I woke at 8, rolled over for 15 minutes and gave up. I discovered the phones hadn’t charged, so plugged them in again while I slowly got cleaned up, packed my gear and dawdled a bit. With enough juice in the phones at 9:15, I headed out, walking the longer way to the Clermont-Ferrand train station. Halfway there, I realized I’d left both phones charging, so I pulled/pushed the bags back to collect them.
Even with that delay, I still had to wait in the station for the train’s platform to be announced. The escalator in the station worked, so I had a ride to the subway, but at the G track, I had to carry both bags up the stairs. Not a Eurail pass train, I had a reserved place and needed to find the correct carriage and seat, fitting the big bag into one of the few storage spaces. During the 90-minute ride, I was able to put more charge into the phones.
Off the train in Nevers at noon, I rolled down the hill a half kilometer to the Zenao Appart Hôtel. The key code got me in the first door, but no key or instructions awaited me. The housecleaning staff instructed me to put my gear into room 13, which still needed cleaning. Rain had been threatening, so I grabbed the parka, umbrella and hat along with the Nikon. Minutes after leaving, the rain started and the parka went on.
The hotel is opposite the walls of the Loire River. I was 170km south southeast of Orléans on the Loire which was the furthest upstream on the river that I’d been on previous trips. After 5 blocks along the river, I turned north and inland, walking the main street. Unimpressed, I was disappointed in too many abandoned, dusty storefronts. Continuing, I was approaching the Basilique-Cathédrale Saint-Cyr-et-Sainte-Juliette from the rear eastern end. Built between the 11th and 16th centuries, the Gothic edifice was constructed of limestone, the soft sandstone color I’d become used to prior to Clermont-Ferrand.
And of course, the entire front façade was wrapped in scaffolding and canvas, with 3m wooden fencing at the ground level. The large building filled the entire oval block, with 2-lane, one-way streets around it. I resigned myself to taking my photos from the eastern apse end. The eastern end showed it had been restored, with clean surfaces and fresh gargoyles.
Southern facade of the Nevers Cathedral behind barricade wall View of Nevers Cathedral from western apse to tower on northern facade Cross (crucifix on reverse) in the western apse of the Nevers Cathedral Side aisle in the Nevers Cathedral Model of Basilique-Cathédrale Saint-Cyr-et-Sainte-Julitte de Nevers Explanatory signage in the Nevers Cathedral Pair of modern stained-glass windows, Nevers Cathedral Statue of victorious knight in Nevers Cathedral
The Nevers Cathedral has sanctuaries at both ends, both in apses. Apparently, the 10-11th century church at the west end was joined to the neighboring 14-15th century Gothic church in the 16th century to form a cathedral. Hence, likely, the two patron saints. Only the eastern end was open, the walk being along the ambulatory. The updating had been on the interior as well, with vibrantly colored floral stained-glass windows in the apse and along the nave walls. In the quire, serious carved wooden seating followed the curve of the apse. A model under glass confirmed there was no formal entrance. Truly a very different experience.
View of the Gothic tower, Nevers Cathedral Detail: carvings on exterior doorway at Nevers Cathedral Ramp to entry on northern side of Nevers Cathedral
Back outside, I maneuvered around the rain, getting pictures of gargoyles, the tower, the carvings on the side walls. During the train ride, there had been 2 stops where I could see big church buildings. Checking, Vichy didn’t have a cathedral (although it intrigued me) and Moulin-sur-Allier did. Finished with Sts Cyr and Juliette, I opted to head for the train station. As I passed a shop, I picked up a tuna salad to eat before catching the 3pm train south.
Simple tuna salad for lunch in Nevers Train station circular ramp in Moulins-sur-Allier View of cathedral towers in Moulin-sur-Alliers
Half an hour on the train, and I was heading northwest through Moulins, the twin towers of the cathedral soaring over the 5-story buildings. Arriving at the Place de la Déportation, the sun was out and the limestone western façade of Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Moulins gleamed.
With a Flamboyant apse and neo-Gothic nave, the structure was built in the 15th and 19th centuries. A funeral was ending, so after a few outside shots, I slipped in the side door and watched as the mourners were queued up to dip an aspergillum into holy water and sprinkle on the coffin. Led by an old man and his son, the attendees followed the coffin to the waiting hearse.
Once the funeral party had exited, despite some staying in the nave, I moved down the south side aisle towards the sanctuary. The back was squared off, with the smaller high altar while main altar stood at the crossing. The ambulatory allowed me to get shots down the nave to the entry, pews in the apse reflecting seating at all cardinal points. Classic religious art, many being triptychs, were displayed in the aisles and ambulatory.
Side aisle shot of mourners paying respect, Moulins Cathedral Stained glass window, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Moulins View of nave from rear of altar (apse), Moulins Cathedral Triptych, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Moulins Main altar and sanctuary with cathedra, Moulins cthedral View from nave of sanctuary, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Moulins
The internet comments, particularly on Maps, are not favorable to Notre-Dame de Moulins. The complaints mainly are that the interior is plain and boring, which I don’t understand. Perhaps compared to the prestigeous, big-name cathedrals, which might be thought over-done; as I’ve seen much less well-presented and -lighted so this was a good cathedral visit.
After leaving, I stopped at the Tourist Office for a map as I walked around the building.
Gargoyles on the Moulins Cathedral View of Moulins Cathedral towers from an arch Classic building in Moulins-sur-Alliers Street view in Moulins-Sur-Alliers Park with monument, Moulins-sur-Alliers
Armed with better directions, I went to the station and jumped aboard an IC train for the 15-minute direct ride. No conductor, so no hassle. I tried posting to Facebook, but something wasn’t working. From the train station in Nevers I got a shot of the cathedral’s roof and tower, and then began the walk to the hotel. About 6pm I checked into the room, found it huge after my last lodgings, albeit dark, with the shutters drawn. I couldn’t figure out the AC, as the room was too warm, so raised the shutters and opened the window.
Regional train at the Mouins-sur-Alliers station View from the train of the tower of the Nevers Cathedral Castle in the fortification wall of Nevers Bedroom in hotel in Nevers
Using the hotel’s WiFi, I finished Facebook, and did some email. After an hour or so, I grabbed my journal and headed out to find dinner. I strolled along the riverfront, stopping at the Brasserie Pont de Loire. Starting with a glass of Coteaux du Giennois blanc, my first was the cannelloni de chair de crabe et fromage frais et perle d’haranga followed by a main of ravioli ouverte au saumon marine legumes et sauce crème citronée, which I accompanied with a glass of rosé: AOP Malepère Domaine de la Sapinière. And for dessert, Moelleux au chocolat Valrhona caraïbe Grand Cru 66% cacao et glace vanille. The cannelloni were decent, but the ravioli were bland – plenty of fish and carrots and potatoes, but the sauce too little and too “not there”.
Outside patio, Brasserie Pont de Loire, Nevers cannelloni de chair de crabe et fromage frais et perle d’haranga, Brasserie Pont de Loire, Nevers ravioli ouverte au saumon marine legumes et sauce crème citronée, Brasserie Pont de Loire, Nevers Moelleux au chocolat Valrhona caraïbe Grand Cru 66% cacao et glace , Brasserie Pont de Loire, Nevers
While journaling and dining, I’d been considering my Sunday activity. I’d leave for Bourges in the morning for two nights, and determined the cathedral there would be open on Saturday. So what could I do on my unplanned day? Exploring options, there is a cathedral in Limoges, and a train ride was 2 hours. I booked my trip to Bourges for Saturday in the Eurail app, and then added the round trip for Limoges. Back to the room, I did some reading before bed.
Day 132 – Bourges I
With a scheduled train at 10am, I couldn’t sleep beyond 8:20, so I was up and out by 9:10 and the walk to the station was 10 minutes. At the ticket counter I tried to get just upgrade tickets for the next day’s trip to Limoges, but the agent took the easy route and just sold straight tickets. Eventually the train pulled in and I boarded for almost an hour and two stops. My lodgings, The Originals City was directly across the rotary in front of the station, so easy-peasy walk. After pulling my parka, hat, umbrella and camera, I left the luggage to check-in later in the day. As it turned out, I never needed the parka.
View of the Voiselle River in Bourges Junction of the Voiselle and L’Yèvre Rivers in Bourges View in the Jardin dis Prés Fichaux, Bourges Street view in Bourges
The cathedral was a kilometer and a half due south, through the heart of Bourges. On my way I crossed La Voiselle, the river that joins L’Yèvre at the bridge and runs north of the large, lovely Jardin dis Prés Fichaux. The public gardens are large, so I passed into the gate and strolled, admiring the flowers and trees. My route took me through town, quaint 3- and 4-storied timber-framed buildings, residential over street storefronts.
Approaching the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Bourges / Cathedral of St. Stephen of Bourges along the north façade and the block belltower at its western corner, this cathedral is known for its width, five aisles with no transept. Built in the High Gothic style, flying buttresses line the exterior. Coming around to the western façade, dual towers flank the central stepped arch of the main entrance.
Flashbacks kept rolling over me as I remembered the cathedrals of Chartres, Rouen and Amiens, all of which are large limestone Gothic buildings. There was no vantage distant enough with a clear line to capture it with the Nikon.
Entering through the north portal, the sheer volume of the nave was amazing. The architectural statistics: 41m wide, 37m tall and 117m long delineate the nave while the footprint is 6,200m². Well lit, the cleaned limestone gleams with subtle lighting adding to the daylight through the windows. Slowly walking my way to the presbytery, the aisles glowed, the windows beamed, awe was overflowing. Once at the altar, the archbishop’s seat was on the Epistle side, and surprisingly, above in the vault over the sanctuary, a pair of cardinal’s galeri hung. This is something I look for, albeit there are only about 200 cardinals in the Catholic church, not all seated with a diocese, and the tradition of the Pope giving a new cardinal began being phased out with Vatican II. I’m always pleased to see this tradition followed.
Model, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Bourges View from nave of vault and center aisle to sanctuary, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Bourges View of the rear of the nave, organ loft and pipes, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Bourges View of ambulatory curve around sanctuary, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Bourges View down central aisle from ambulatory, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Bourges Stained glass windows in apse, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Bourges Sanctuary, main altar, cathedra, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Bourges Deceased cardinal's galeri hanging in the vault over the sanctuary, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne Bourges
While I was exploring, dropping into the crypt to see the predecessor cathedral as the foundation, an organist was playing the organ. Over the western entrance, a loft held the console below the display of pipes. While I recognized many of the composers, I was disappointed that they didn’t seem to be using any of the big pipes, the deeper bass tones. The final work I heard was a Bach Toccata and Fugue.
After nearly two hours, I returned outside and headed to the main pedestrian street. After picking up a few items at a sale in H&M, I stopped at a brasserie off on a side street for lunch. A nice salad followed by saucisson with frites did the trick. I spotted an ATM and collected euros for my stay in Paris and then headed to the Tourist Bureau.
Street scene in Bourges Salad for lunch in Bourges Frites et saussi
Having booked a walking tour at 3:30, I was surprised that my French was decent enough to get most of what she said. A performance was scheduled for the evening on a stage south of the cathedral, so the sound check did inhibit some of her talk. The group of 15 moved towards the cathedral, as the tour focused on the history of the city and its cathedral. Within, she dwelt on how the depictions in the stained-glass windows had evolved. An Aussie was in the group, and I pointed out the galeri to him, as the guide never had us looking into the space over the altar.
Crossing the nave, we exited through the south portal and she began speaking about the fire of 1480, pointing out spots still showing the effects of the flames. As we walked towards city hall, she continued the history lesson. Then we u-turned around a block and returned to the western façade of the cathedral and ended the talk.
Buildings viewed on the walking tour of Bourges Buildings viewed on the walking tour of Bourges Buildings viewed on the walking tour of Bourges Street viewed after the walking tour in Bourges Buildings viewed after the walking tour of Bourges
I decided that I’d head back to the hotel, strolling the slight downhill to the garden and the river. More people were on the streets that Saturday evening, as I took parallel streets to get a better view of Bourges life. By 6:15 I was back at The Originals and got checked into room 47. Across the street and up a flight of curving stairs, down a hall, 3 more steps and into a small room, the bed was large, the bathroom fair with a small shower stall. I returned to the front desk for a sheet, as the duvet would be too heavy and I didn’t want to fight it all night.
Room 47 in The Originals, Bourges Cheese platter for dinner, Made In Café, Bourges Mountain burger, Made In Café, Bourges
There really weren’t too many restaurant options open per Google Maps, so I opted to eat in the hotel’s Made In Café. With a carafe of Côtes du Rhône rouge (Belleruche, Domaine Chapoutier). I started in on the fromage planche. Six kinds of French cheese with walnuts, and a basket of baguette pieces, I was in heaven. While I journaled and nibbled, I observed a sparse crowd dining. My main, a mountain burger arrived about an hour later, “pain brioche artisanal, viande hachée, poitrine de porc, tomme, brebis salade tomates, oignons rouges, sauce blue d’Auvergne avec des frites et salade verte.”
Day 133 – Bourges II Limoges
A later start, I was up and out of the hotel at 9:15 for the train toward Limoges a half hour later. I had to harass a woman sitting in a 4-seat unit for a seat for the one stop to Vierzon on the Paris-bound train. Switching trains, I was soon heading south on the Toulouse-bound train to Limoges.
Arriving at noon, Maps gave very confusing instructions getting out of the station for a walk to the cathedral. Finding the upper exit to the taxi stand, I opted for a 13€ ride that lasted about 5 minutes. Considered mixed in architectural style, my first view of the narthex and tower of the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne I labeled it bizarre and modernistic in my notes. I think it appears vaguely Gothic from the sides and rear. The tower entrance is the sole entry point, and there is a brief space between the tower and the actual western façade. The contrast between the red bricks of the tower and the limestone of the cathedral jarred.
Le Clocher, the tower, is Romanesque, built in 7 evident stages. Entering the nave, there are three aisles, the central groin vault rising to about the middle of the tower. While the side aisles are about the same width as the center, gated chapels reduce them to walking narrower space, continuing to the ambulatory. Many of the chapels have murals and detailed stenciling, some reminiscent of Orthodox churches. Due to a bombing in 2005, much of the stained-glass is being replaced or restored. What appear to be new organ pipes are above the rear entry, with the deepest voiced pipes being bronze and square, the rest are circular tubes and chrome.
Entrance to Le Clocher in the tower in front of Limoges Cathedral Vaulot of the nave of Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Limoges Main altar, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Limoges Stained glass rose window, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Limoges Ambulatory chapel, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Limoges View of the sanctuary, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Limoges Westward view in nave to entrance, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Limoges Vault in apse, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Limoges High altar and cathedra, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Limoges Baptismal font, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Limoges Boss in vault, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Limoges Stained glass windows, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Limoges
After 90 minutes I headed out to the plaza to the south, which overlooks the Vienne River. I took the stairs down to the riverfront, walked it a bit, and then began my return to the station. Along the way, I found a shady spot in front of a kebap café and had a lunch of curry chicken, frites and a glass of rosé. Continuing the slight hill to the Gare de Limoges, I found I was 50 minutes ahead of my train, and had another glass of wine as I waited.
Intriguing architecture, Payment Processing Center, Limoges Curry chicken and frites, L'Auberge du Kebab, Limoges View of train station bar, Limoges Train lines coming into the Limoges Station Glass wall in the Limoges
The train northbound was 3 carriages, and was relatively empty. Having finished my first paperback, I picked up The Orthodox Church by Timothy Ware, a paperback I’d been given in May 2024 by the bishop of the OCA cathedral in Seattle. It provided me with reading material until I reached the States. At Vierzon, the change was brief and I was soon back in Bourges.
After a bit in the hotel room, I contemplated dinner. Across the street was closed for Sunday, so I opted for a buffet place on the street level below the hotel rooms. While I took my journal with me, the place was bustling, and I really didn’t have time to write. I loaded up my plates with bits of many things, sipping on a ’23 Brouilly from La Chapelle de Venenge. When I got back to the room, I updated the journal, and mulled my options for my 4 days in Paris. The RER, regional train system around Paris, was not part of the Eurail pass, which had one more day of use once I was settled in Paris. I had plans to revisit the now opened Notre-Dame de Paris when I arrived, and then had 6 more cathedrals in suburbs to the west and south of the capitol.
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