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Occitanie France: Montpellier to Cahors

Writer: KB Cook
KB Cook
Sep 7
20 min read

Day 121 – Montpellier

Before I left the Kyriad Nîmes, I wrote down my observations: The room is small with little floor space to move around. Two available plug outlets, both low to the ground. WiFi was weak and undependable. The bathroom was functional.

 

Leaving the hotel, I thought I was heading parallel to the big pedestrian plaza which ended at the train station, but the road veered away, so I had extra steps. Since trains run frequently to Montpellier, I hadn’t scheduled myself, and I arrived in the station before the early train I expected to miss. Boarding and riding 4 stops and 45 minutes, it was 5-minute walk to the Hôtel Mistral Comédie Saint Roch. The room would likely be ready at 2pm, so I grabbed my hat and Nikon and headed out.

 

I’d visited Montpellier back in 2013 at the end of my bicycle ride along the Canal des Deux Mers and I’d photographed the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre de Montpellier then. There is an ancient cathedral building off the coast on the island of Maguelone that beckoned. Six miles distant, Maps proposed a route that started with the public tram system, switched to a bus and then involved a taxi. I caught the #4 tram, riding to the Garcia Lorca stop. There I crossed the street and waited for the #32 to Pilou. While Maps indicated to stay on until I reached the town center, I left the bus and crossed to a large park. Bicyclists and faster walkers passed me as I walked along the Chemin du Pilou, a one-lane roadway that turned into a pontoon bridge that bisects the Etang de l’Arnel. White flamingos were feeding in the shallow water.

 

Reaching the island of Maguelone, a free jitney provided service to the beaches and the old abbey. At the first stop, I got off and walked through the gates and up a minor hill. The jitney continued to travel the edge of the island, the last stop actually being the cathedral stop. Observing the wild vegetation as I approached the abbey, I began scoping out angles. The north “garden” had 4 peacocks, who garnered more attention from the other tourists than the ex-cathedral. After walking around the building, I headed inside.

 


North facade through trees of the ex-Cathédrale Saint-Pierre [or Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul] de Maguelone
ex-Cathédrale Saint-Pierre [or Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul] de Maguelone, Villeneuve-lès-Maguelone, Occitanie, France

The ex-Cathédrale Saint-Pierre [or Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul] de Maguelone was built of sandy-colored stone blocks, with little ornamentation. In fact, judging by the remaining wall of the garden, I would suspect some of the building was fortifications. Still in use as a church, two sets of 4 pews face the altar at the end of the nave. I found it evident that the structure had been restored, as most was in pristine shape. Archeological remnants are displayed throughout.


 

Stairs led up to an opening, a deck overlooking the garden. Back inside, a croft extended over the nave, to a balcony overlooking the sanctuary. A very calming space, it was much cooler than the sunshine outside. Keeping under the many trees surrounding the building, I viewed the abbey’s vineyard. Just missing the jitney at the last stop, I headed back to the drop-off point. I’d watched the jitney coming around the outer edge of the island, arriving in time to board and get a ride to the bridge and causeway. I was moving at a good pace, not hurting much, and stopped to pee on a grapevine and refill my water bottle. I anticipated getting to the bus stop a few minutes early, but as I walked to the pickup point, the bus roared through, several minutes early.

 

With half an hour before the next bus, I walked into the small and quiet town of Pilou, hoping to find lunch. The only shop open was the patisserie, so I got a cold saucisson baguette (hot dog) and a bottle of fruit juice. Back at the bus stop, I hung out in the shade with a trio of local women. We crossed together to board the bus #34 which I rode to its terminus at Garcia Lorca. Crossing the street, I boarded the 4a tram back into the centre-ville, getting off close to the cathedral. Alongside the College of Medicine, St Pierre has two round towers of stone brick, no openings, supporting a porte-cochère 3-stories up in front of the main entrance. I’d found it unattractive during my earlier visit, and haven’t changed my opinion.

Front exterior of Cathédrale Saint-Pierre de Montpellier
Cathédrale Saint-Pierre de Montpellier

However, unlike in 2013, I was able to visit the interior. (Before I’d gotten inside to attend Mass, but the building was closed immediately afterwards.) A funeral was about to begin, and since I had time and hadn’t been to Mass recently, I decided to sit in the back and observe. The deceased, Jean-Paul T. was carried up the stairs and out the main doors, which are usually closed. I encountered the violinist who’d played with the organist during the Requim Mass. I complemented her on both the Pie Jesu and Gounod Ave Maria.

  


The central nave is wide, the sides dedicated to smaller chapels and altars. Beyond the transept, the arms have open space ending in small side altars adjacent to the sanctuary. The apse is deep, with tall stained-glass windows wrapping the walls at the clerestory level. The high altar has a golden bas-relief design on both sides of the tabernacle. The cathedra is to the right, in front of the red-and-yellow Umbraculum indicating that this cathedral is also a minor basilica. At the rear over the main entry, gold-capped organ pipes stand out in the gloom.

 

Exiting through the east side door (the cathedral faces south), I tried for side views of the building. With the streets too narrow, they were unsatisfying. I walked to Place de la Comédie, a near kilometer-long open plaza with the theater at one end and the Tourism office at the other. Nearby was Le Triangle, a huge, multi-level enclosed shopping mall.

I needed more thumb drives for backing up my netbook’s backups of my photos, and had tried Orange (mobile phone store), before success at FNAC (all kinds of electronics). Trying to find my way out (you either walk out as you entered, or by car from the adjoining car park) was frustrating. I found an escape which would put me closer to the Hôtel Mistral, taking me past several gyms full of the post-work crowds.

 

Back at the hotel, I was assigned room 12 and took my bags up. I was pleased as it was a good space, lots of floor space but a small loo with enough shelf space. A small desk and open etagere had hangers and extra pillows. Checking the WiFi, I pushed the new cathedral pictures up to Facebook, breezed through some email until it was time for supper.

I’d spotted Charlie’s Beer while on the street, so taking my journal, I headed there. Most of the beer on tap was lighter summer fare, many Belgian ales. Having been out to Maguelone that afternoon, I started with the Monastique, switching to the Kasteel Red for my second. There was a Vietnamese restaurant next door, so I had a noodle salad with chicken and spring rolls from Cuisine S. I WhatsApp’d with Roger, my daytrip.com driver, confirming the pickup in the morning. After multiple backups, I read for a bit and crashed.

 

Day 122 - Road trip to Rodez

Packed and ready for Roger at 8:45, he arrived just before 9 and we loaded my luggage and took off for Agde. He wasn’t much of a conversationalist, and had a dour feel, which I should have picked up on. He also was having a hearing problem with his right ear, the one closer to me. This was a major bucket list trip for me, as, after seeing the 3 cathedrals, I expected that we would be driving over the Millau Viaduct, something I’ve wanted to do for 15 years. 


Exterior of the front (from the side) of Concathédrale Saint-Étienne d'Agde
Concathédrale Saint-Étienne d'Agde, Agde, Occitanie, France

We headed west paralleling the coast on the A9 until the turn-off for Agde/Bessan when we turned south. A very large monolithic-like structure, the Concathédrale Saint-Étienne d'Agde was tightly squeezed into the downtown area. I noted that the probable best sightlines would have been from across the Hérault River, as it fronts on the quai. A large (footprint) tall belltower stands at its rear on the southeast corner.

 

With few windows, the single aisle nave was fairly dark, helped only by ceiling spotlights. A barrel vault, the walls were mostly clear of decoration. The nave was full of wooden pews, facing the altar rail and the presbytery. A simple altar is forward of the high altar against the flat apse wall, a large oil painting depicting the martyrdom of St Stephen above. A dark carved wooden platform, cordoned off, held the red upholstered arm chair of the bishop’s throne. An impressive organ was in the loft over the narthex.

 

Unfortunately, Roger took a different route heading to the next destination, driving away from the cathedral, so I wasn’t able to get my shot. I was learning that he was too focused, and wasn’t going to work with me so he might understand my poor spoken French. He headed along the Hérault until the next bridge, the departmental road 612 which took us to Béziers. Not as close to the river, the Co-cathédrale Saint-Nazaire et Saint-Celse faces wests into the Place des Albigeois. With crenellated towers at the front corners there is a taller belltower along the back north façade.

Front facade, Co-cathédrale Saint-Nazaire et Saint-Celse, Hérault
Co-cathédrale Saint-Nazaire et Saint-Celse, Hérault, Occitanie, France

 The entry was gained through the north portal, and I immediately noticed the organ pipes displayed in carved wood over the closed western doors. Again, a single aisle nave, the sides filled with sponsored chapels dedicated to patron saints. An elaborate carved marble reredos explodes behind the high altar, filling the central wall of the curved apse. Statues representing the four evangelists flank this depiction of the Trinity. Below on the apse wall are wooden carvings of various representations of the Blessed Virgin, over the choir seats.

 

A floor plan displays the elements of the cathedral, its entrance through the north transept, and across the crossing, access to the cloister. I didn’t see a way to access the cloister, nor did I find a way to climb the tower, and there are pictures on Google Maps of people there. Roger made no effort to show the town (he was a driver, not a guide), so like Agde, I have very little in the way of an impression for both cities. Back in the car, Roger drove inland towards Lodève. My notes say that I discerned that he was very focused on time – I’d been taking longer than the 15-30 minutes per church that I include in the request to daytrip. We had a serious lack of communication.

 


Exterior facade, ex-Cathédrale Saint-Fulcran de Lodève
ex-Cathédrale Saint-Fulcran de Lodève, Lodève, Occitanie, France

Our route took us into hills to the east of the Montaigne Noire into the Languedoc-Roussillon region. I was reminded of the dry grassy hills seen on the road to Yosemite when I visited the National Park in California. Situated near the center of the city, the ex-Cathédrale Saint-Fulcran de Lodève had lost cathedral status with Napolean’s suppression, and was now part of the archdiocese of Montpellier. Now just past noon, there was parking in front of the entrance into this Gothic church. Seemingly with a double transept, the entry was from the northeast portal in the transept. The nave was long, extending from the northwest facing grand entrance beyond both the transepts, wooden chairs spaced in rows facing the presbytery. Five steps up to the sanctuary, topped by a communion rail.

Within the apse sits the forward altar table and behind on the back wall, the high altar. The curved wall of the apse is filled with tall, narrow colorful stained-glass windows. Above the wainscotting in the nave, framed oil paintings line the upper walls. At the rear, the organ pipes are displayed, below a distinctively different rose window: the head of Christ in the center, eight medallions depicting angel’s heads, and the outer ring the heads of the 12 apostles. Here I was able to get into the cloister garden.

 

It was nearly 3 hours before the next photo with the Nikon, as I was sitting in the front seat snapping pictures with the phone. Roman headed back to the A75 and turned north. Mountains rose to the sides; at times we passed through tunnels. Before 1pm, we made a quick stop and I had a cobb salad at a highway service center. As we approached Millau, I was excited to see the seven piers of this sprung strand marvel of engineering.

The phone’s zoom was only fair, and they weren’t the best. When he pulled off the roadway, I thought he was heading to a vantage point for me to get my pictures. The next I knew, we were down weaving through the streets of the town, bypassing the suspension bridge. I still had hope that we’d stop once we climbed out of the valley where the town and the Tarn River were, but he zipped back on the A75 and continued to Rodez. And he brooked no conversation. As we climbed up, I remarked that the hills would make great backgrounds for any photos, but he ignored me or didn’t hear.

 

About 80 minutes later he was dropping me off at the Hôtel Tou Maje. I got checked in to room 408, large with floor space and a balcony. Immediately after I settled in, I sent a message to daytrips.com to express my extreme disappointment. I accepted some of the blame, as I hadn’t reviewed the itinerary with him, but I felt the major failure was with the company for not including all my correspondence regarding this booking. Lessoned learn for me: always review my intentions with the driver, preferably prior to pickup so any questions can be vetted by them to daytrip.

 


Exterior western facade, Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rodez
Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rodez, Rodez, Occitanie, France

Now after 4pm, I left the hotel to walk the 200m to the Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rodez. Occupying an entire long block, across the street is the open Place d’Armes. Faced in red sandstone blocks, the Romanesque bones have Gothic embellishments, the western façade was walled closed, as the cathedral had been part of the city’s fortifications. A huge square tower rises from the building’s northeast corner. I entered through the north transept after walking the exterior looking for an angle.

 

Coming inside from the north transept, standing at the crossing and looking to the (closed off) west is a new altar, with the cathedra placed there below a rose window high in the vault, and the traditional high altar in the east end in the curved apse, tall narrow stained-glass panels encircling. Much of the upper spaces are dark, arches continuing into the vault. Side chapels and painting on the nave walls are all tastefully illuminated. The stained-glass fell into three categories: 100+ year old classics, contemporary (both story-telling), and abstract. The scale model, behind glass and artfully ground lit, was in a dark corner, but gave a true representational picture not achievable outside.

 


In the section to the east of the crossing, the center aisle is filled with a carved wooden quire along the columns, with attached chairs forming pews facing the high altar. More ornate and better lit, this end of the church engaged me fully as I viewed carvings of stone and wood, stenciling of columns, old framed masterworks telling the Christian story. The Eucharistic chapel was small, felt like a tunnel with the low ceiling a bas-relief of repeating floral design. I even spotted a “green man” among the many bosses joining the arches, although my favorite was a winged demon.

 

After an hour of exploration and wonder, I left with the suggestion to visit a local museum. Slowly moving through the neighborhood and studying the buildings, I began moving towards the center. Drizzling, I decided first to wet the whistle, stopping at Chez Arnaud for a glass of wine. Chatting, after sharing my itinerary, I was advised that rather than going to Albi via Toulouse as I’d planned, I should go direct. RailPlanner agreed, and I’d have a later start. There is a free bus from the center to the station, and the train ride would be 75 minutes, much better than the 4½ hours I’d planned. The local varietal is the marcillac/mansois grape, and I tried 2 producers: an ’18 Parole Libérée from Domaine Matha, and a ’21 Borda Xuria from Irouléguy, which was a tannat and cabernet franc blend.

 

I headed back to the room to drop my camera and then returned to the street to find supper. Just around the corner was Bistro Bichette, where I had a table to start working on my journal, as it had been a long day. A small cheese plate, tacos with a petite salade and a glass of vin, I began catching up. Leaving, I returned to the room to continue the journal while I backed up two days of photos. Not breaking into the bigger roller, I prep’d for the morning, set an alarm, did some reading and went to sleep.

 

Day 123 – Albi I

Rising before the alarm, I dawdled and got checked out at 8:15 for a 9:15 bus. I was told to take a C from in front of the Monoprix, but it turned out I needed and A on the opposite side. I’d walked up the hill, pushing my bags and hugged the side of the building as it was drizzling lightly. An A came and went before I learned, and then there were no Uber/Bolt drivers to be found. Concerned I’d miss the train, I was frantic, but an A arrived and got me to the station at the bottom of the butte with 10 minutes to spare. No luggage space on the train, so I squeezed the big guy into the aisle seat floor, the smaller into the seat and then jumped over to sit by the window.

 

Watching Maps, I exited at Albi-Madaleine rather than Albi-Ville: 2½km apart and on opposite sides of the Tarn River. Closer (10min versus 30min walking) to The Original Hotel, and on the Rive Droit, so much better walk. I got checked in, assigned room 306 on the top floor. The hotel smelled of boiled cauliflower, and the bed felt overly firm. Minor unpacking and I headed out to visit the cathedral.

 

Walking across the river on the nearest of the three city bridges, I stopped in the Marche for a wine tasting of two syrahs from Domaine Carcenac: both 2022, D’Anton and Jadis, the latter my preference, and it had been aged in oak for a year. The winery is about 3km from the town market I planned to visit the next day. Not only the tower of the cathedral stands out on the skyline, the entire building looked huge!

 

Approaching the cathedral-basilica from the east end, the rounded end of the apse soared. This may be the largest brick building in the world. And proved to be a challenge to photograph well from the ground. Walking the north (river) side, the short midday shadow offered some shade from the sun, which had come out from behind the clouds. I had to continue my circumnavigation as there is no entrance from the west. The south side has a nice plaza, but it still didn’t extend west far enough for an encompassing shot. At the other end, by the Tourism Office, the apse end was doable.

 


Exterior facade, south side,, of Basilique-Cathédrale Sainte-Cécile d'Albi
Basilique-Cathédrale Sainte-Cécile d'Albi, Albi, Occitanie, France

The Basilique-Cathédrale Sainte-Cécile was built over a period 100 years following the Albigensian Crusade. It was consecrated after another century in 1480 and is dedicated to the patron saint of music. Entry into the building is from the portal at the middle of the south side. On entry, to the right, a concession will allow you to buy a ticket to visit the quire and sanctuary in the apse end, while the section to the left was free admission to access up to the nave. I paid my 6€, hung an audio guide around my neck, and proceeded first to the nave.

 

And the first photo I took was looking up to the nave and the ribbed barrel vault. The ribs and bosses are golden, the surfaces between illustrated with shields, saints and angels on a lapis blue field. Light poured in from the tall narrow windows on the gallery level, over the side aisles. A black marble altar (inlayed with tiles) stood on a raised platform at the western end, the lower flat wall a fresco of the Last Judgement, with the magnificent organ pipes on display above. Elaborate side chapels, resplendent with murals, stenciling, statues lined the walls.

 

The carved stone wall of the quire, with controlled access doorways, blocked the lower view towards the sanctuary. It reminded me of Córdoba’s cathedral, where daily Mass is offered within the quire. The outside of the quire has carvings like fencing, with statues of the apostles at intervals. The interior walls had murals of tableaus: I felt the vaults of the chapel domes in the ambulatory reminded me of the blue unicorn tapestries, just with angels. Within the quire, the eastern most end is a simple altar table surrounded by carved stone fencing. The quire itself has two ranks of carved wooden seating along the long walls, a tiled black-and-white mosaic clear between. A second cathedra is alongside the entry door; at the opposite end of the church, a simpler large wooden one has its back to the altar there.

 

The treasury/museum was included with the paid admission, so I headed up. Mostly religious artwork, there wasn’t much “hardware” – the instruments of worship usually found in these kinds of displays. Returning to the main floor, I put the earphone in for the audio guide, reviewing what I’d seen until the battery died. I’d been inside for 2 hours, took 175 pictures.

 

Back outside, I walked around, studying the smaller details – shields, gargoyles, carvings. I tried for more angles, wishing for a drone with a camera, or access to an upper floor of the buildings to the west, as long as I got above the trees. A previous cathedral was suspected to be within the archeological space, but there really was no access to anything that might indicate an earlier church building.

 

I descended to the river’s shoreline level and walked back towards the Pont Vieux (Old Bridge) where I crossed the Tarn again. With one last shot of the Albi cathedral at 4pm, I headed to my room. Collecting my laundry, I headed out, hoping that this would be my last visit to clean clothes before heading home. The singe 10kg machine washed, and 2 drying cycles of 13 minutes each had me folding. I was back at my room in 90 minutes. I packed the large case, keeping out a change for my one night in Cahors.

 

Having not eaten all day, I was un-chic and went to dinner at 7, visiting Le Papillon d’Asie, a Thai eatery on the right bank. With a half liter carafe of rosé, I ordered salade Thai poulet and Pad Thai poulet. To finish, candied ginger, always a tummy settler.

 

Day 124 – Albi II - Gaillac

Research proved correct that there was a Friday morning market in Gaillac, a village about 30km west, and a convenient 30-minute direct train ride. I was on the 9:52, a little later than planned, I had a half kilometer walk from the station to the open-air market. Covering a large portion of the central town, vendors were on sidewalks in front of stores, under the trees in a parking lot, down a street to another plaza. The butcher was in one area, the fishmonger another. There were multiple vendors with fresh produce, but several stalls apart. Dry goods, clothing, shoes, jewelry, wood carvings and food and wine sellers held court.

Only one vintner, but after two tastes on an empty stomach, I went in search of lunch. The saucisson platter sounded appetizing at LE BLACK SOÛL, but they had no sausages, so the waiter suggested “Portuguese sausage”. With a salad and frites, the battered meat was tasty, especially with two glasses of red wine. I even opted for dessert – a local variation on crème brûlée, where the sugar was crumbled on top, without searing it: good flavors of vanilla, caramel and coffee.

 

With the market closing about 1pm, I began my meander back to the station, looking for an alternate route so I could view the town. I had grabbed a baguette and a small piece of fromage bleu. The pareu in black and white had tempted me, but when I went back it had been sold. On my stroll, I made a visit to l'Eglise Saint-Pierre de Gaillac, getting a chance to offer my prayer list up.

Three images: a utility box painted with birch trees, and two murals of figures working the vinetards
Public art murals in Galliac

I caught the next train back to Albi, and headed to the hotel. Passing a post office, I inquired after a parcel box to the States. An overseas box at 7kg was 78€, a bit steep, but better than having overweight luggage when flying home. I sent off polos, chocolates, corks and skivvies I’d not need, once the paperwork was completed.

 

Collecting ice from reception, I headed to the room and broke out the Macedonian vodka. With the pain gourmandaise and fromage bleu, I did some email, and took a nap. I probably should have explored, gone back to the rive gauche, but I was tired – in fact my notes indicate I was ready to go home. I began checking my train rides for the next few days, and found it might be tight getting from Périgueux to Clermont-Ferrand. I sent an inquiry to daytrip to find out about a driver, thinking I could add Limoges on the way.

 

The suitcase now had plenty of room. I had to avoid buying more stuff. The weather outside wasn’t great – showers had persisted all afternoon. It was cool – 70°s (F) – unusual for late July. I headed out for supper at 7, finding the first restaurant already closed for the summer holiday. The next had no air conditioning, so I wound up at a pizza restaurant, Le Napoli, for a berbere + ail pizza and a pression. I felt the gravy needed more spice, the pie needed more mozzarella, and found the edges burnt. A fair effort.

 

Day 125 - Cahors

Twenty minutes’ walk to the Albi-Madeleine station, boarding the 9:51 to Toulouse station. I found a seat and place for my (now lighter) gear. I tried to video passing the cathedral, doing an abysmally. On arrival in Toulouse, I had 10 minutes to switch to the train to Cahors, and I made the connection easily, despite the lack of signage in the “subway”. We left on time, a smooth and uneventful ride. Pulling in on time.

 

Cahors is located at the hairpin bend in the River Lot, an imminently defensible location. The train station is on the west side, and the Hôtel Jean XXII on the east. So it seemed that I was always pushing my bigger bag up inclines to get over the spine. Fortunately, it was less than a kilometer, even taking the slightly longer route.

 

The hotel wasn’t open when I arrived, so I returned to the town center and had lunch at Bordeaux Café. Escargot bourguignon to start, a Salade de Saumon Mariné Maison for my main. A nearby patron had tied his dog next to me, so I had a very attentive partner for my meal.

By 3 the reception had returned, and I was able to get into room #2 on the first level with a rounded staircase. Immediate perception was that it is small, like a ship cabin. The bath was a bit larger than when cruising, but few surfaces.

 

Heading out, I walked the few blocks parallel to the river to reach the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne. A white stone façade, the exterior is in need of a cleaning; the west (main) entrance was locked. The façade was mostly flat, three sets of small windows bracketing a rose window over the pair of red doors set back in an arch.

Front facade and entrance, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne, Cahors
Cathédrale Saint-Étienne, Cahors, Occitanie, France

Probably a narthex with belltowers, its height hid the pair of black domes over the nave. Using the portal on the south, there are steps down onto the nave floor. A single aisle church, the lighted domes bring brightness to the interior as scenes are projected into the bowl.

 

The most significant relic in the cathedral is the hood used to cover the crucified Christ when laid in the tomb. La Sainte Coiffe is displayed in a chapel behind a tall wrought iron gate. Fortunately, the openings are wide enough to fit the Nikon lens, and I was able to get a good picture. There is a cloister, and an ambulatory. A mix of century-old and new stained-glass windows create an interesting juxtaposition. I also found a modern green man. Many of the newer murals are orthodox-icon-like.

 

Leaving after nearly an hour, attempting on more outside shots, but a motorcyclist spent 20+ minutes gesticulating on a phone call. I found the Halle (indoor market) where I put together a rillette and baguette sandwich for the next day, and did a loop through the commercial district.

Back to the cathedral, he was (finally) gone. Walking past a sidewalk sale, I headed towards the river and noted the opposite side was a steep wooded slope. After a few shots of the back of the church, an about-face allowed me to see the Pont de Cabessut, one of 4 vehicle bridges to cross the Lot. I followed the riverside, sometimes on the bike path, until I was further north than my hotel, at which point I found stairs to climb the butte. I ducked into a church, no photos because they were about to start 6pm Mass.

 

Back at the hotel, there was no ice, but I enjoyed a bit of Skopje gin neat as I did a little internet. The WiFi was abysmal, not even findable on one phone. Heading out about 8pm, I wound up at V&B, a chain of bars that I’d encountered in other cities. Serving mainly wine (Vin) and beer (Biere), it draws a younger crowd. I noted I didn’t see anyone who looked over 30. I got pours of the three wines on the menu board, although the second was subbed out for a ’20 Fronsac from Chateau Vielle Croix. Wanting food, I was served a bowl and a ramekin: one with sliced sausage, the other cheese. By 9:30 I was ready to head back, as I needed to hydrate before crashing. I'd be off to Périgueux come morning.

 


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