Visiting North Macedonia and Kosovo
- KB Cook
- Dec 30, 2025
- 21 min read
Day 92 Strumica
Awakening to the alarm at 7, I was out the door by 7:30 and into an Uber, heading for the Thessaloniki bus terminal. I bought my ticket for Gevgelija, and then learned I needed to be at the other bus station in Thessaloniki, thus requiring another taxi ride. Still, I made it to the 8:30 Simeonidis Tours bus – a “light load” per my notes. We spent 15 minutes clearing Greek security and 10 more on the Northern Macedonia side. We made a 15-minute break for the rest rooms and coffee, and arrived on time just after 10 in Gevgelija. Google had indicated buses onward at 10 and 11, but the ticket countr advised that the next one to Strumica was at 2:30pm.
From the small bus depot, after leaving my gear, I walked around the corner to the post office, hoping for an ATM. An older steam locomotive had been sidelined near the train station. No nearby ATM there, so I continued into town, eventually getting about $200 (or 5000 in local notes).
I began a wander. Then, looking at my phone, I discovered there had been a time change, and I had an extra hour! Observing street art, I began capturing them with the Nikon. Not many folks out, I decided to check out the local churches.
The first church is dedicated to Sts Cyril and Methodius, and was Macedonian Orthodox. Through and arch, the church buildings wrapped around a small shaded park on the streets’ corner. Apparently freshly painted murals of icons on the walls, this is an impressive church.
There is a beautiful nave with every surface covered in images or painted designs. [On my return home, the translation of the posted plea advised that this was Macedonian Orthodox Cathedral Church "Saint Cyril and Methodius" Gevgelija!] I really didn’t get a good photograph of the exterior, unfortunately.
The second (of four in town) church I visited was the Macedonian Greek Catholic Church of Saints Peter and Paul. Closed, I went in search of food, getting a burger and fries at a small shop down an alley. Heading back to the bus depot, I checked out an old locomotive, and found what might be an abandoned train station. Then to the bus stop to sit and read until the 21-person mini-bus arrived.
Our route took us over serious hills and through agricultural zones. About an hour and a half later, watching Maps, I noted we would pass close to my lodgings, so I asked the driver to let me out before the main depot. My walk to the Hotel Ilinden was quick. I was booked into room 101, with twin beds and plenty of floor space. After a minor unpack, I was out with the camera.
A straight 300m walk brought me to the Macedonian Greek Catholic Cathedral of the Assumption of Blessed Virgin Mary / Католичка црква „Успение на Пресвета Богородица“.A tall red brick structure with a single steeple over the entrance, the narthex walls were also covered in murals of icons, however not a fresh and bright. In the nave, white walls had the Stations mounted, and the curved vault was richly embellished with religious scenes.
Back down the slight hill passing the hotel, I veered to the left and came to the Orthodox Cathedral of the Assumption of Blessed Virgin Mary / Соборен храм Успение на Пресвета Богородица. This is a stalled construction site, the concrete walls bare and lacking a roof. I maneuvered around the large fenced off plot, finding neither access or signs of activity.
Just outside the construction zone is a small church of white stone with ochre grouting and tiled roof, Church of Saint Gregory Palamas and Saint Demetrius, which remined me of the Greek Orthodox Cathedral in Havana. It turned out to be quite new, and probably a work in progress.
Returning to the hotel, I began hydrating, while I went through emails. About 7, I looked for dining options on Maps, finding little in the way of non-fast-food options. Walking in the direction of the bus terminal, most of the choices shown were closed, and I finally resolved to eating in a “chrome and glass” restaurant and bar called Concept.
I started with zucchini fries and tzatziki, and then an inferno pizza with a local draft beer. My notes say I would have taken a taxi back, but without a taxi materializing, I walked the kilometer and a half back to the Ilinden. After updating my journal, I set my alarm and went to bed.
Day 93 Skopje I
Breakfast was included, so I had fried eggs, bread, coffee and juice. After getting my bags and bringing them downstairs, the desk called me a cab and I wound up across from my dinner restaurant. I was able to get a ticket for 650 MDinar, and had a seat on the window in another minibus.
Leaving at 9:40, we were filled before a third of the way to Skopje, arriving at half past twelve. The view out the minibus window was mainly flat, with patches of agricultural efforts here and there. The walk to the hotel was 30 minutes, and I got room 101 again. With my stay being 2 nights, I did a bit more unpacking before heading out to visit the Orthodox cathedral.
Nearly 2km, I strolled at a comfortable pace, past a Triumphal Arch, reaching the Archbishop Cathedral „St. Clement of Ohrid” / Архиепископски соборен храм „Свети Климент Охридски“ in 40 minutes. Impressive, the circular nave has open domed arms at the cardinal points. I found the outside to be architecturally quite breathtaking.
Inside seemingly an octagonal floor plan, the windows under the ceiling bowl acted like clerestory lights, allowing significant sunlight into the nave, unlike most of the dark Orthodox churches I’ve visited. The trim around the mural scenes and icons of saints is a marvelous flag blue, contrasting nicely with the gold leaf. The architect even brilliantly used the upper space as galleries, all of which were filled with religious art.
Separated, to the north, is another modern structure, a 10-story white belltower. To the west in front of the entry doors, is a life-sized statue of St Clement. Heading out, my next stop was a kilometer and a quarter pretty much due west. The walk took me through the open-air market, albeit heavily shaded, where I got a pear and shoelaces.
Embedded in the sidewalk I noticed pairs of brass markers, similar in size to those indicating the Route of St James (Camino de Santiago.) A bit further on I came to another church of modern design.
The Katedrala Srca Isusovo / Катедралата Пресвето срце Исусово / Cathedral of the Sacred Heart of Jesus is smaller than its Orthodox counterpart, rectangular, with sweeping gull wing roof eaves forming a cross seen from above. Its narrow white belltower sits separately, on the southwest corner of the block. Unfortunately, the building was closed. I spoke with a woman there, who commiserated, but recommended that I visit a number of nearby Orthodox monasteries.
Taking me back beyond my lodgings, I found the Church of St John the Baptist (The Forerunner) perched on a wooded hillside. Up a pair of stone ramps, the small narrow white church beckoned. It was my father’s birthday, as well as the feast day of the birth of St John the Baptist, so I actually lit a candle and prayed for my Dad. A simple space, beautifully adorned with murals, I understood why the locals made their way there.
Before leaving Sacred Heart, I learned it would be opening at 4:30, so I headed back. With modern lines similar to those found in churches in the States, a red runner covers the center aisle, continuing up into the sanctuary. The gull wing roofline affords clear glass to form a bright cross, allowing sunlight to filter through. Behind the modern altar table, the cathedra sits below a stained-glass window depicting the Sacred Heart of Jesus.
Etched glass doors, six on each side of the sanctuary, display a likeness of an Apostle, each with his instrument of martyrdom. Alcoves honored St Mother Theresa, a local saint, and St Anthony of Padua.
Departing, I headed back through town to the hotel. Needing to wet my whistle (and use the facilities,) I stopped next door for a bottle of CKOΠCKO beer. After resting a bit at the hotel, I walked around the corner to Domini Restaurant where I had a salad and beef stew with another bottle of Macedonian beer.
I noted I needed to get more Omeprazole, as I was running low. My primary mobile was having issues pushing pictures up to the Cathedrals to the Glory of God Facebook page, and I tried all the tricks I knew. Back in the room, I journaled, backed up pictures, and went to bed without an alarm being set – I had no plans for Wednesday.
Day 94 Skopje II
The hotel room lacked blackout curtains, so with the sun rising at 5:30, I finally gave up at 7:30 and futzed around until breakfast at 8:30. Fried egg, bread, watermelon, coffee, juice: all somewhat standard for a hotel morning buffet meal. By 9:30 I was off wandering – it was an unusual day for me as I had nothing planned. First up was getting a bus ticket for the next day to Pristina.
The Macedonian capitol city of Skopje basically runs east-west about 7 miles wide, with the Vardar River as a curvy backbone. There aren’t many bridges crossing the river, so I headed north and crossed it, and headed to the East Gate Mall. A huge structure, it took a bit to find the entry (not geared for pedestrians), and after strolling a bit, was told photography wasn’t allowed within.
Exiting and staying to the north of the Vardar, I headed west towards the open-air markets, the Old Bazaar. Much more interesting, pedestrian streets honeycomb the modest hillside, small shops and freestanding kiosks offer all varieties of merchandise. Several minarets rise out of one- and two-storied mosques. With no purpose in mind, I followed my whimsey, browsing and window-shopping. Near the top of the hill, I ran into Old Town Brewery, where I enjoyed a dark draft out on the shaded patio. From my stool, a dual-domed mosque was next door, and off to the ridge were the remains of two sets of fortification walls.
Back down the hill, I entered the food market, a large space filled with rows and rows of vendors selling fruits and vegetables. At one end in perpendicular aisles, merchants hustled clothing, shoes and trinkets.
Out from under the corrugated roofing, I crossed the river on the Old Stone Bridge and arrived in Macedonia Square. Evidently newer construction, tall chrome-and-glass buildings mixed with stone-faced government buildings for the skyline. Strolling the riverfront, statues of warriors, statesmen and patriarchs topped the balustrade posts. Looking across the river over the Bridge of Civilization to the Archeological Museum, I had the feeling of being in a major European capitol city.
After a bit of research, I booked an appointment at a distillery, and my time-killing walk took me by the St Clement Cathedral. The view from across the thoroughfare was stunning. Ten minutes later I came to the entrance to Smidgin Distillery. A small ground-floor space, the walls display the various aromatics used to flavor gin, the more interesting of which was a “Periodic Table of Gin”. Staff was crushed, so I didn’t get a personal tour, but they did offer me the tasting option. Trying 4, their boutique. limited edition gin aged for nearly a year in a cabernet sauvignon barrel intrigued me enough that I bought a bottle.
[It survived and pleased me through the rest of my trip in Europe.] The other small batch gins included “Orient” -spicy and warm, rich in orange, star anise and cinnamon – and “Velvet” – hand-picked lavender and rose hips from the wilds of Macedonia and butterfly pea from Thailand.
The 500ml bottle I’d purchased was in heavy glass, so I walked back slowly, passing through Constitution Square, to reach the hotel about 4.
After a nap, backing up the pictures and some Internet, I left for dinner. Getting about a quarter kilometer, I entered Kalabak and moved to the back of the patio seating area (away from the smokers.) Fortunately, an English menu, so I had a Skopsko Dark draft, risotto with chicken and vegetables, and a salad. Back to the room, I picked up a voice message from a (State of Washington) phone number that turned out to be a FDIC-involing scam.
I journaled my observations of Skopje: the city is a study in contrasts. There are derelict buildings, abandoned construction sites, but also modern new buildings and repeated apartments buildings a la Coop City in New York. Air conditioning is individual, with units hanging on the outsides of the buildings as if an afterthought. Coffee shops are busy throughout the day; car drivers rarely slowed for pedestrians. I noted that I saw one BMW nearly cream a guy in a wheelchair.
Day 95 Pristina I
Again, the sun broke into the room at 5:30, and I stayed in bed until 7:45. Breakfast at 8:30, and I killed time until 9:30 to then walk the 15 minutes to the bus terminal. My ticket was for 11, but I was able to board the 10:10 vehicle. The Gazmend “bus” was a 15 passenger and 75% full. I chatted with Byron, a nomad from State College, PA. The view out the window was beautiful, clear skies, 82°F, forest-covered mountains.
A two-hour ride, the walk to the Hotel Nartel took 15 minutes crossing over the highway. Pristina, also known as Prishtin, is the capitol of Kosovo and like Northern Macedonia, is not Schengen. The hotel was ready for me, putting me in room 102, after a discussion regarding whether I’d prepaid (per my notes). Still, a king bed, lots of floor space, decent bath with shelf space.
To get to my objectives, I needed to cross a major highway. (I was near the intersection with the smaller one I’d already crossed.) Between Maps and the front desk directions, I was seriously misdirected (and it was probably my fault), so it took me 45-minutes, twice what had been projected.
I walked past the Bill Clinton Square, snagging a picture of the former president waving to passing traffic. Then, ahead of me with dual 6-story belltowers, was the Cathedral of Saint Mother Teresa / Katedralja Nënë Tereza, its bronze roof glowing in the sunlight.
With an entrance facing north to the point of the triangular block, construction of the plaza was still underway. Coming around from the east, I entered the 10-meter-high nave. The side aisles rise to 3-stories, clear space with stained-glass windows admitting the filtered sunlight. A gallery forms the topping of these side aisles, and clerestory windows top the arched openings into the nave. All is white marble save the vault of exposed wooden beams.
Carved into the ends of the pews in the nave are raptors, a somewhat sinister look, calling to mind the double-headed eagle symbol of the Orthodoxy. This, however, is the Roman Catholic bishop’s seat, one of two Catholic cathedrals in Kosovo. Consecrated in 2017, it is one of the newest cathedrals I’ve visited. The sanctuary is spare, occupying the apse, with a carved stone cathedra below a Risen Christ. The altar to the dedicatee is in the east transept arm. The pulpit and baptistry are striking stone monuments.
Controversial due to its size relative to the Catholic population, it honors the Albanian-Indian saint who was actually born in what is now Northern Macedonia and raised in what is now Kosovo. Situated at a bend in the Bill Clinton Boulevard its height and clearance make it a landmark in the central business district.
Nearby is the National Library building. Proceeding north from the cathedral, this remarkable structure sits up a rise from the broad promenade proceeding from Saint Mother Theresa Cathedral. White polymer domes cap the roofline, while the façade is faced with a wide netting overlay. To the north of the library is the unfinished Christ the Saviour Serbian Orthodox Cathedral / СПЦ -Саборни храм Христа Спаса. Set in a “left to go wild” city park, the brick and concrete structure has locked barriers to prevent entry (and vandalism.) Construction began in 1992, and ceased as a result of the separatist war of the mid 90’s. Kosovans consider them more aligned to the Albanians to the west rather than the Serbians to the north.
Continuing up the promenade, I window shopped, noticing street murals. Heading back towards the hotel without getting misdirected, I noticed that similar shops were all grouped together – perhaps 8-10 storefronts offering mobile phones and service were all cheek-by-jowl, then clothing, furniture, salons. The only outlier were cafés.
I stopped at one for a small beer to wet my whistle. During that respite, I chatted with a young university student who was hoping to work in Brandenburg, Germany.
After settling in and backing up my photos, I had a brief nap and did some internet. At about 7 I set out looking for dinner without having to use a pedestrian bridge, and preferably not pizza or fast food. My options were minimal, and I finally found Alula House, a posh modern restaurant in the base of an apartment tower. It turns out they have a limited menu (not really in English) which offered appetizers and pizza.
Armed with a pouring of a Tikves Alexandria dry red wine, I started with hummus. It was topped with feta crumbles, cherry tomatoes and arugula and served with rolls. My pizza was topped with onions, garlic, peppers and beef sausage slices.
Back to the room, I journaled and then read until it was time for shut-eye.
Day 96 Pristina II
There are no notes regarding the included breakfast at 8:30. I messed up again following Maps to the promenade, having to wander across a field of tall grass to get to the pedestrian bridge. Across, the small Statue of Liberty copy and the super-tall minaret rose. Climbing the hill to the Catholic Cathedral and then walking the promenade, I reached the Theater meeting point for the free walking tour a few minutes early. Under construction, it didn’t feel like a meeting point.
After resting 5 minutes, I found a few others waiting to take the tour, and then the (male, ~30yo) guide Astrit arrived. We were a group of 7, women from New Jersey, Australia, somewhere, the Czech Republic, all in their 20’s and 30’s; and a Turkish couple. Hugging shaded areas, we slowly worked our way into the older Muslim area, visiting the oldest mosque, and the largest mosque with its theological museum.
Our next stop was the monument to NATO solidarity, a tall modern white sculpture forking to three points. Art installations and statuary abound in the commercial district, so we were focused on a few of them. A free sample of Nescafe drew our group for an unanticipated caffeine break, before we came to the “NEWBORN” monument, celebrating the newness of Kosovo on the world scene. Heading to the National Library, we’d lost the Turkish couple, but Astrit continued to give his somewhat dry patter, seemingly by rote. He briefly mentioned the two cathedrals. As this was tip based, I was surprised at the frugality of the younger women, handing him mostly change. For two hours, I felt 10€ more appropriate.
On our walk I’d spotted an open-air bazaar, where I hoped to get a local t-shirt. Searching for it, I passed a plaza where cyclists were setting up for the weekend event promoting exercise, cycling, and hiking. I never found the bazaar, so headed back to the hotel. After resting, I crossed the smaller highway with the intention of buying my bus ticket to Prizren, but the agent wouldn’t sell me it until the next day. At least I was able to identify where and when I would catch my transport.
Back to the room to read and Internet until dinner time. I’d spotted Mono, a pub, on my walks to and from the station, so I returned for dinner. A salad of bell peppers, red onion, black olives, feta and tomato wedges was my healthy start, while a Mono burger with fries filled me up. When I returned to the room through a grocery store getting chocolate bars, I finished packing and then read until lights out.
Day 97 Prizren I
Out of the hotel by 8:30, I was able to board the 9:05 Gjirafa bus to the city of Prizren, second largest city in Kosovo. The first half hour of the 2-hour ride had us passing by auto dealers, casinos, factories and plants. Gradually, from my seat behind the driver, the view changes to rolling hills and suburban or agricultural settings. Multi-family 4-story brick-faced residences lined the roadway the second half hour, and then fields of corn and vineyards filled the view. Climbing some hills to use a pass, the "second city" then spread out in front of us.
Biond Hotel was a kilometer away. The walk was miserable, as the sidewalks were Belgian stone, catching and pulling the luggage wheels, especially as I walked along the Prizren River. Assigned room 202 in the small 3-story hotel, I stored my luggage for later registration after retrieving my camera. I had three churches to visit over my two days stay, so I set off, aiming for the Catholic cathedral. However, I ran into the Serbian Orthodox Cathedral of St. George/СПЦ Саборни Храм Светог Ђорђа first.
A good-sized rectangular building with a tiled awning over the southwest corner, two lantern domes are above the center aisle. The external façade is unadorned beige stone blocks, small windows piercing the sides and front. It was closed for St Vitus’s Day, apparently the anniversary of a significant battle.
However, adjacent was the Chapel of Saint George Runovic, a domed church built in the 15th-16th century. It was open, so I was able to view the murals from the late 16th century that cover the apse, vault and east wall. Continuing up the hill and around a bend, I approached the Cathedral of Our Lady of Perpetual Succour / Katedralja e Zojës Ndihmëtare. A broad building faced in red brick, the exterior bears little adornment as well.
Wooden central doors grant access from the northwest-facing entrance. The central nave is topped by white columns supporting arches covered in stenciling. Medallion portraits line the curved vault. A glassed over section of the subfloor reveals archeological finds, accompanied by a photographic display.
At the back of the apse, the old high altar holds the tabernacle and the Presence, wood paneling spreading out the curve of the walls. The balcony was unlocked, so I was able to venture up and get a bird’s eye view of the saint’s depicted in the vault’s medallions. Outside, there was more evidence of digs, as well as a well-groomed garden.
Crossing the river, I entered a less touristy section of town. Wending my way, I came to the former Serbian Cathedral Mother of God of Ljeviš/Virgjëresha e Ljevishkës. An obvious victim of the 90’s war, the ochre stone building was surrounded by serious fencing (concertina wire) with military presence across the street. Narrow streets, utility wires, trees, walls and fences made finding that shot difficult. A sign indicated it had opening hours, but it was locked off for my first visit.
Continuing my explorations on the north side of the river, I walked west for a while, window shopping and enjoying the great weather. I spotted a few mosques, easily found due to the minarets. Off to the east a serious hill rose, with fortification walls topping the ridge. I ran into a German-speaking gentleman, who advised a visit to the mosque in the fortress, as well as the synagogue. (The latter didn’t surface in Maps.)
Hungry, I slipped into Bea’s Fast Food shop where I had a salad with chicken strips and water. While easting, four 20-somethings entered. IT professionals, three were visiting from Pristina. We got into conversation for about 15-20 minutes, reflecting on my visit to Pristina, and getting recommendations for Prizren.
Returning to the south side and heading east, I came to the main mosque for that neighborhood, the 1615 Sinan Pasha Mosque. Removing my shoes, I was able to enter and get some photos. I was particularly impressed with the dome ornamentation, a tasteful blend of grays with touches of blue, brown and orange.
Apparently public art is encouraged in Prizren, as I found many colorful examples in both public spaces and the occasional off-the-beaten-path.
Encouraged after speaking with a fellow tourist once outside the mosque, I began the climb to the fortress. Part way up was the orthodox church “Sveti Spas” which looked interesting, but was closed. Maps had estimated 15 minutes, but the hill was steep, made of cobblestone, and I made one wrong turn. Advising two women who’d been behind me, they ignored me as I doubled back. Once on top, I passed through an arch in very thick walls to find a well- maintained fortress. Spectacular views emphasized the strategic importance of the venue.
For nearly an hour I climbed all over the walls. Settling the Nikon, I was able to get overhead shots of the three cathedrals I’d visited, as well as the mosque, and the church I’d passed on the way up hill. And learned why it was closed, as the church doesn’t have a roof. There was a small bar midway down the hill, so I stopped for a draft Scottish ale, resting my weary feet. The barkeeper was 16yo, helping out his father.
At the bottom of the hill, I noticed folks visiting the St George Cathedral, so I entered. Photography was not allowed; however, I plead my case and was allowed 3 shots. My last shot that day with the Nikon was of the cathedral doors. There had been a fire in 2004, and the iconostasis has not been restored.
Back to the hotel, the two women at the receptionist desk were outside having a smoke break. I was able to get into my room. Facing out onto the river, I had a king bed and decent bathroom. I pulled out my sleep apnea appliance to air, left my camera, and headed outside.
I climbed the hill to the Catholic cathedral to attend 6pm Mass. A recitation of the Rosary was underway when I entered. Upon completion, the priest entered and said an abbreviated (daily) Mass for the 21 attendees. I had no clue what the sermon was about. I was one of 5 to not go up for Communion. We were out in 30 minutes.
Curious, I queried the ‘net for a brewery or distillery. I had a hit, but it proved to be a café/retail shop across from St George. I went around the corner and found Bar ACA where I had another Scottish ale on tap, with a bag of crisps fetched from a store by staff.
Good conversation with the owner’s son, a 29yo dentist living at home, who suggested a place for dinner. Nice ambiance, it would deserve a return. But no kitchen, and I needed dinner.
Down towards the river, I settled outside at Restuarant Pashtriku. My notes of my choices are in Albanian, so here goes: Qufte me Kaqkavall (meatballs with Edam cheese), Ple skovic, Birra Shkupi (Skopje lager beer). Apparently, their meatball offerings are all the rage.
Day 98 Prizren II
Waking to the alarm after a difficult night on a very hard mattress, I noted that my lower back was hurting and I was uncomfortable all day. Nonetheless, I was out at 9:15 and headed to my rendezvous point for my Guruwalk: Ancient Prizren walking tour. The guide, Naz, was there, and we walked east and then across the river to meet Heidi, who I’d met on the walk in Pristina and seen again at the fortress the day before.
Apparently climbing to the fortress was part of Naz’s plan, so we both nixed a return. Challenged with being dynamic, Nazim walked us to Teqja e Saraçhanës, a Muslim cultural center where we peered through windows at the covered bodies of sufi dead.
Staying on that side of the river, we returned to Our Lady of Ljeviš. Naz expected the guide, but he was a no-show, so after a brief explanation, we entered and spent time in Muzeu Arkeologjik i Rajonit të Prizrenit, the city’s archeological museum. Very interesting, we spent 20 minutes there looking at exhibits as we moved through the building.
We crossed the river to the Catholic Cathedral. Mass was just about to start, so our visit was brief. Continuing along towards St George, we stopped at the small stone chapel of St Nicholas known as the Tutić Church. Dating back to 1331, this Orthodox building was remarkably well preserved, given it had been vandalized during the 90’s war. As a cultural monument, EU funds are working at its restoration.
A visit to St George was next, and still no photography, although I did get 2 shots inside.
Then to the big mosque, where we all entered after removing shoes.
Exiting, we sat for tea and then we all parted. My feeling was that it hadn’t been a good tour, but I might be partially to blame, as I’d done a good deal to touring around Prizren on my own the day before.
Heading to the riverside, I decided to follow it west. This took me out of the tourist area and into “new” Prizren. More public art, new buildings, a shopping mall: I got a feel for how the locals lived around a tourist mecca.
On my way back, just by chance, I walked by the old Serbian cathedral and found the guide there, and he opened the gate for me. The guide, a young divinity student expecting to enter seminary, was delighted to have a Christian poke into his sphere, and we had a lengthy conversation about cathedrals, Kosovo, Serbia and the world situation.
Unlike St George’s, he was most willing to allow me to take photos, and I took about two dozen of details of the murals. Plus, within the fencing, I was able to get a great shot of the exterior of the building.
Returning across the river, I found a store where I picked up two bags of crisps, and then returned to Bar ACA. Two more Scottish ale drafts and good conversation, I relaxed from a day on my feet. Heading back to the room, I backed up my photos, and realized it was late. On my way to dinner, I ran into the receptionist, who recommended a friend’s restaurant. I’m not sure I got good directions or the name, but I wound up at Hani I Vjeter Restaurant across the river. Bilingual menu, I ordered speca me ajke (baked peppers in cheese sauce, a house specialty; Qofte Traditionale (traditional meatballs with parsley and garlic, served with a salad and homemade bread); and house red wine from the local Rahovec cellar.
The appetizer was interesting, and I scooped up the remainder of the cheese sauce with both the “burger” and bread. Not too different from the night before, I still enjoyed. No dessert was available (I was there late) so I had a mint tea before heading back to the room.
Day 99 to Shkodër
An earlier start to a full day, I was up at 7:40 and had my gear down in the reception area before 8:30. My daytrip.com driver Klevis and I had WhatsApp’d back and forth, and he would let me know as he approached, as the street in front of the hotel was narrow and almost restricted. He arrived in his “other” car, maneuvered so we could load the bags into the boot and get underway. Not much of a conversationalist, he drove conservatively, with courtesy, and with confidence, keeping within speed limits. I was very comfortable riding shotgun.
We headed out of Prizren, joining the highway within 15 minutes, and crossing the border from Kosovo in Albania traveling to the southwest.
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