Italy: Marche and Emilia-Romagna regions
- KB Cook
- Jan 6
- 21 min read
Day 104 Ancona
The alarm had been set for 7:30, so I was up and dressed when, 20 minutes later, a knock on the door reminded me that debarking was at 9. And a half hour later, another knock, with the cleaning crew attempting to enter shortly thereafter. And the toilet, which had been flaky, either stuck on vacuum or not flushing at all, was only fixed as I walked out of the cabin with my gear at 8:30. Most of my fellow passengers seemed anxious to get off the Adria Ferry Mia in Ancona, but I relaxed and watched them “hurry up and wait”.
Among the last off, I was crossing the pier at 9:30. My hotel, the Fortuna, was nearly 2½km, mostly flat, following the waterside. Since I had to pass through truck security to leave the port area a third of the way, I suspect not many folks spend the hour hiking through warehouse country on a hot day. Hotel Fortuna is opposite the bus and train terminal, hence selecting it. The room was ready, so I did the minimal unpacking before returning to reception with my hat out and camera ready. Armed with very helpful information, I crossed the piazza out front and, at the second newsstand I got tickets for the bus to Osimo.
A half-hour wait and I climbed aboard the N bus. We rolled through the countryside for 45 minutes, and at the last stop, I crossed the street to the free funicular which brought me to the top of the cliff.
Walking several deserted roads to the north and west, I arrived in south wall and entry of the Basilica Concattedrale di San Leopardo / Co-Cathedral Basilica of St. Leopardus. Confused, I found the arched gateway that led into a closed square walled in with clerical buildings. Off to my right was the Church of St John the Baptist, which serves as the cathedral baptistry.
Curious, I went into the baptistry first. No windows, the only light came from the door opening to the south. An open tiled floor, the cast metal baptismal font was placed up 3-steps on a round platform. The high walls of the nave were whitewashed up to about two meters from the ceiling, where elaborate murals covered the top of the walls.
The vault was filled with heavy coffering, extensively gold-leafed. At the east end was a fully illustrated wall, the altar central to the murals. Here was the Renaissance’s answer to all the elaborate Orthodox sanctuaries I’d visited. Exiting, I walked into the ecclesiastic square. Facing to the east was the entrance to the back of the cathedral nave.
The co-cathedral has a solid belltower north of its entry, where the exterior facades of both are plain. Entering the church, the columns of the nave formed Gothic arches, meeting in corbels high in the vault. Four side altars filled niches in the aisle walls, the backgrounds for the illustrations a rich lapis lazuli in color. The current altar table is placed on a cross-shaped carpet at the head of the nave floor, while 13 steps lead up to the sanctuary, the high altar in the apse. The apse is filled with murals depicting the Evangelists, while the half dome shows a resplendent Christ the King in fiery orange-yellow hues. Restorations were underway, but that Saturday, no workers were present.
Leaving the upper level, I came down stairs and entered the crypt. Unadorned stone walls, the arches rose over short columns. Two altars are ready for service, one being the Presence. Several stone sarcophaguses are present. A columbarium holds the remains of clerics who served the co-cathedral basilica.
Exiting the cathedral, I began walking towards the funicular stop. The 13th century Holy Trinity Church, called to me, and I entered to find a resplendent nave and apse, in warm autumn colors. The vault held murals, framed in stenciling and trompe l’oeil. I checked Google for the bus schedule.
Fifteen minutes or seventy-five? Had there been something to see to merit staying another hour? I decided to head back to Ancona, getting to the terminus a few minutes early. However, no bus, but another rolled in, which turned out to have a better route. Climbing off the bus at Piazza Kennedy, a kilometer from the port and cathedral in Ancona, I saved many steps.
Strolling through the commercial center of Ancona, the streets were empty on that Saturday. The several churches I passed were all set above street level, which I found curious. As I climbed higher, I caught sight of statues covered in gold: two waving horsemen and two veiled women.
Off to the north I looked down on the ferry marina, inactive. Porta Pia, what I thought was Trajan’s Arch stood near the path I’d walked earlier, when I’d been opposite in the shade. Achieving the top of the overlook, the large Basilica Cattedrale di San Ciriaco . Cathedral Basilica of St. Cyriacus blinded me in the sun. Bright white stone façade, it contrasted with the greens of the gardens and trees, and the near cloudless blue sky.
A covered porch at the top of stairs protects entrants from the weather. An oxidized copper dome sits over the crossing, hidden behind a decorative wall. Lions guard the door, a light peach color contrasting with the cream stone of the steps, columns and walls. Once inside, I noted that the three aisles seemed to the same width. There was a devote couple making the rounds, usually getting into the frame. I finally headed down to the crypt.
San Ciriaco’s undercroft is much more richly decorated than its co-cathedral San Leopardo. Marble inlays in the columns, marble mosaics patterned into the floor, windows admitting daylight; elaborate tombs filled ornate niches. I found the remains of frescoes on some walls. Behind an iron gate, archeological excavations had uncovered the remains of a pre-Christian temple to Aphrodite. A sign pointed to several relics: the skull of the Apostle St James Minor, and a stone used to kill St Stephen the Protomartyr.
Climbing to the main floor, the vastness of the nave across the transept contrasted with the lower ceilings below. While the walls in the nave and the dome are unpainted, carvings on the columns kept my interest. The woodwork of the choir stalls was brilliant; the nave was cool and comfortable. I rested a bit, leaving after about an hour inside. Descending to the northeast away from the protected harbor, a bend in the road brought me to remains of the Roman amphitheater. The “underground” passages were visible, revealing storage areas and stalls. Walkways looked to offer a closer view, but the park was closed.
Continuing past the former prison, I came to the Parco del Cardeto, a 35 hectare forest Entering at the eastern end, I took shots of the archeological dig from a different angle, then up to the former barracks before coming to a view of the rugged coast. A red brick lighthouse stood behind fortifications, while the newer concrete lighthouse was more approachable. This Bastione San Paulo was named for the church built there, which became the barracks.
By 4 I was getting tired, and started trying to find my way back towards the hotel. Narrow stone block streets with 4-story high mostly residential buildings were shady, which I much appreciated. I’d done a bit of research while resting in the shade, and discovered that the original cathedral in Ancona had been dedicated to St Stephen, and that there was the medieval church of Santa Maria della Piazza over its location. Coming down the hill, I first sited its apse, coming around to the west-facing front façade.
I’d had to weave my way through throngs of well-attired twenty- and thirty-somethings. A wedding was to take place, and socializing, vaping and flirting kept the observers outside. I went in after getting outside shots, and quickly got those pictures from inside. A musician translated for me, speaking with the older gentleman monitoring the church. He took me through a side door, pointing to the crypt where I was able to get shots of the mosaic floors and wall mural fragments that had been the ancient Cathedral of St Stephen.
Leaving as the bridal party pulled up, I headed towards the hotel, again passing the Porta Pia (which I had thought was the Arco di Traiano on my first walk to my lodgings.) At a rotary, I observed the port end of the San Martino Tunnel, boring through the hill.
I’d sought an alternate route, so I had some hills, but the forest on the bigger hill was shady, cool and soothing. At a market I got a cold 2-liter bottle of water, and downed half: I’d been sweating from head to foot, my shirt was soaked and I could feel the sweat run down my legs.
A shower and clothing change at the hotel, and I was feeling so much better. I lay down for a half hour, did some internet, again dealing with USPS to hold my mail again. Hungry, I headed out at 6:30, way to unfashionably early, for dinner.
The nearby “Mood 22 in red” served more than pizza, so I sat out at a table on the piazza, journaling away as I first ate tagliere di salumi e formaggio con miele e confetture tipiche, which is a charcuterie plate. I followed it by a pizza speciali: bomba: pomodero, mozzarella, wurstel, salsiccia, salame picccante, gorgonzola, cipolla, olive nere, peperoncino. I had glasses of house white and red wines. Limoncello sundae for dessert
Day 105 Cesena I
The 8:15 alarm was unnecessary, as I was up at 8 and dealt with my ablutions, and dressed. I finished packing the big case, and then headed down for breakfast of salami and cheese, an almond tart, OJ and coffee. Grabbing my bags, I headed across the street to board the train, first trying to activate my Eurail pass. I thought I had it done, but I couldn’t show the conductor, so paid 10€ for an on-board purchased ticket. The 9:45 train took 90 minutes to reach Cesena, my next destination; I had a nice conversation with my seat mate, a German woman.
The walk was pleasant, up a slight hill alongside a park and down a quiet street. Through two locked gates, I arrived early at the B&B del Vicolo, where I had a modernized room upstairs.
After settling my bill, I left my gear and headed towards the Cathedral Basilica of St John the Baptist / Basilica Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista. Approaching noontime and its closing per Maps, I rushed, only to find had already closed.
A solid red-brick building, the façade had vertical ribs as its only ornamentation. The single entry was a pair of dark cast bronze doors set into a white archway. The sculpting on the doors was eye-catching.
After an hour of roaming the city and taking random pictures, I checked the trains for Pesaro, my late afternoon trip. On my pass, the next “free” ride was at 2:45, while there was another at 1:25. I headed to the station, paid the 11€ and got the earlier train.
A half-hour walk from the Pesaro train station to the Cathedral Saint Mary of the Assumption in Pesaro /Cattedrale Metropolitana di Santa Maria Assunta brought me to a square piazza in front of another plain red-brick façade, well set back from the street.
The door of the center of the three entries was open, and the bright interior certainly surprised me after the dour exterior. To me, the interior felt Georgian, but renovations were in 1865. The warm cream color walls with slate blue accents, the coffering in the vault and arches supporting the dome at the crossing, the circular clerestory windows: it all worked to present a light and airy building in which to praise God.
Ochre-colored wooden bench seating fills the dome floor, nearly matching the brick-red marble squares in the white marble floor. Carved darker wood was used in the apse for choir seating along the curved back wall, set below 5 stained-glass windows depicting standing saints. The mural in the apse half-dome shows the Assumption. Glass panels in the floor expose the tiling from the pre-Gothic prior basilica, with large stretches revealing massive mosaics.
Strolling back towards the station, I had 90 minutes before I returned. Window shopping as I walked, I kept an eye on the skies as they continued to darken. After making a pit stop and getting a fruit smoothie, I moved a bit faster, reaching the station as a light shower broke, albeit there was thunder and lightning.
The train was a bit late, and near full. The man next to me was “large” and spent his entire time on his phone. I used the time to figure out the train pass and enter my 4 rides for Monday.
Returning to the B&B, I noted that I had salt showing as my black shirt dried. I’d been trying to wear shirts twice, and checked a couple of once-worn to determine if they’d be wearable without a trip to the laundry. Changing, I left the Nikon, grabbed my journal and went out in search of dinner.
Ristorante Thailandese Bangkok wasn’t busy at 7:30 on a Sunday evening. I ordered a mango salad and chicken in red curry with rice, and a large Singha. I filled nearly a page in my tight nearly illegible scrawl, recording what I remembered of the day. The salad was head lettuce, with carrot strips and a few pieces of mango in a light sweet sauce. Pleasant enough for the hungry. The curry was mildly hot, with hard peanuts and cut green beans; sticky rice.
Day 106 Cesena II
Inexplicably, the alarm went off at 7:30, so I reset it for 8. While the B&B has three rooms, it appeared I was the sole occupant, and my breakfast was 2 pieces of cake, OJ and coffee. Grabbing the Nikon, I headed for the station and caught the 9:19 to Imola, arriving 35 minutes later.
A kilometer walk through quiet pedestrian streets, Maps brought me first to the rear of the Imola Cathedral / Basilica Cattedrale di San Cassiano Martire / Cathedral Basilica of St. Cassian. Diocesan buildings across the street, with a small piazza in front, the sun was bright in a partially cloudy sky, shading the west-facing entrance. Parked cars lined the side streets of the block, but the north face allowed me to include the 10-story tall campanile.
Immediately inside, the large carved marble baptismal font stood behind a locked gate. Looking down the aisle, I noticed that the structure is in great shape, clean and bright, polished marble floors and unadorned columns. At the far end of the central aisle, the sanctuary was reached by steps up, set astride those descending into the undercroft. The half dome of the apse has a golden light, the dark carved wood of the quire filling the curved wall under a painting of the patron St Cassian. Statues of bishops wearing their mitre filled niches.
Down in the crypt, short pews face a smaller altar table. The relics of the saint are under the back altar, while the more forward held the instruments of the Mass under a shallow dome. Low lighting conditions on the sides, with bright wall sconces in the center made for chancy pictures. I spent about 45 minutes in this cathedral.
My plan had me in Imola for 4 hours, so I was able to explore. Not too far away was the Rocca Sforzesca, a 14th century castle which has been under restoration. A barber was open with empty chairs, so I stopped in for a 10€ cut, which involved the #6 clippers on the side and the top left alone. It felt good to have less above my ears, but I felt I looked different.
As I was heading to the station, I spotted a shop with a “red sale”. Most every commercial shop seemed to announce sales in their windows, typically 10-25%. The proprietress was offering 60%, so I wound up with much more than needed or planned, leaving 37,50€ lighter. And a memory got triggered when I spotted a Necchi storefront: my mother’s sewing machine was a Necchi, and I wondered what had happened to it after she died – I knew it had been in the basement of my stepfather’s house, but it, along with her mink coat, were never passed along.
The second train of the day brought me to Faenza. Once off the train, I had to take a pedestrian underpass to cross the busy thoroughfare, delighted to find some excellent wall murals.
Another kilometer walk, this one took me along tree-lined streets with wide sidewalks. The Basilica Cattedrale di San Pietro Apostolo / Cathedral Basilica of St. Peter the Apostle occupies a city block, above the sidewalk with 15 steps to a dark brown brick-and-mortar façade. Interestingly, the bricks were set at an angle, a corner jutting out. Maps had indicated it would be close, and it was. From its appearance, I would suspect five long aisles, a true transept, a crypt below the high altar.
With two hours planned in Faenza, I waked down the Piazza del Popolo to the Palazzo Manfredi, a tall domed clock- and belltower that now houses the city hall. The elaborate Fontana Monumentale was rife with fantastical creatures, and sits out the front entrance of the cathedral.
With over an hour, I began strolling, observing public art, door and building ornamentation, church fronts, statuary and parks. Back to the station, I caught an earlier third ride, this one to Forli, arriving before 5pm.
With the cathedral 1.5 kilometers away, it was a half hour walk across town, finding my way under the major motorway that runs through Forli. My zigzag route took me along tree-shaded roads, across a huge piazza, and after several wrong turns, I reached the Cattedrale di Santa Croce / Cathedral of the Holy Cross. The sides are faced in red brick, the front yellow stucco behind six tall columns of red brick topped with Corinthian-style capitals supporting a pediment over the entry. A narrow shite column with the Mother and Child stands off to the side. Maps told the cathedral would be open until 6, but I tried all the doors and none were unlocked.
The walk across Forli had been tiring and frustrating, so I planned to take a taxi back to the station once I’d checked out the neighboring Piazza Ordelaffi. I stopped at a pub for a beer before I began walking back as I couldn’t find a taxi. Somewhere along the way I lost the pinch-clip camera lens cap. I caught the 6:28 train back 2 stops to Cesena. Once in my room, I left the Nikon and grabbed my journal and went in search of dinner. Wandering a bit, I came to the chain hamburger restaurant America Graffiti. A circular building on the rotary at Piazza aldo Moro, it has dining outside and inside, where red vinyl reflects back on diners. Nearby university buildings had great murals.
Starting with a double amber from Grimbergen, I ordered the chimichanga with well-cooked fries. Surprisingly, the seasoned fries were almost crisp and the burrito passable, although I questioned serving potatoes with Mexican fast food. After getting much of my day down on the page of my journal, I checked a few emails = I had a request for a phone call from my buddy in Mexico to check up on me, which I put off for 2 days. The trains would be on strike the following day, and I had booked with FlixBus for a ride to Modena.
On my way back to the B&B I looked for an ATM for cash, albeit I still had 4000 Albanian lek. My notes record I was having pain in my left hip, which would continue for some of the rest of the trip. In the room I packed up, got organized and read a bit before sleeping.
Day 107 Modena
With the alarm at 6:45, I was up 15 minutes ahead of it and out of the B&B (after some confusion as to where to leave keys) and at the train station at 7:30. The bus departed from a remote location due to the significant construction, so I had planned to taxi from there. The bus arrived at 8:10 with a destination of Verona, not the destination I’d planned (Bergamo). More rolling and adapting, I boarded and had seat 10B, A being empty. We made a stop in Bologna, and then proceeded to Modena. Vineyards, fruit orchards, and fields of corn and sunflowers passed by as the bus rolled to my stop 15 minutes late.
Back in 2020, before Covid required shutting down all travel, I’d planned on visiting Italy. Helping me with my arrangements, I befriended Elisa, my ToursByLocals concierge. When I returned to Europe in 2023, I used her arrangements for Venice, and engaged her again on multiple occasions to arrange drivers in cruise ports. We’d finally met in person in 2023, and I was pleased again to see her. She had been able to take the day off, and would be taking me to two nearby cathedrals.
Elisa was there, and we got my gear into her Honda. As we took off, we chatted about her work at Maserati (now part-time, with the business not flourishing) and her husband Jacapo. We were heading 11km to Nonantola to the abbey there. Also a basilica and a co-cathedral, the Basilica Abbaziale di San Silvestro I Papa / Abbatial Basilica of St. Silvester I shares the bishop’s seat with Modena.
A monolithic brick-faced building, side windows appear only in the clerestory. Founded in 752, the abbey has a fascinating history. Off-white stone columns support the arches holding the wood beam vault. At the front of the nave, the presbytery rises up steps, with a crypt below.
Heading down below the sanctuary, a forest of short, thinner columns held up the altar flooring. Important relics of Pope Sylvester I and of the True Cross are enshrined here. Up the stairs, the altar table sits just outside the simple apse, a spotlighted suspended icon of the clothed crucified Christ emphasizing the simplicity of the space. An amazing venue, remarkable for the clean lines and lack of flourish which I’d been seeing on this trip.
Back to the car, we backtracked towards Modena and then headed north to Carpi. Now I realize that this 25km trip was a big request, but the voyage was spectacular. However, we got to the Piazza Martiri which stretches south from the Basilica Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta / Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of Mary at a quarter past twelve, and the doors had closed at noon. The façade is a warm peach, with numerous columns, statues and flourishes in white. An octagonal tower sits over the crossing.
Strolling south down the empty piazza, I snagged a shot of the municipal theater, as I liked the ornamentation on its exterior, the same color as the cathedral. Deciding to have lunch, we walked a few blocks over to the tree filled Via Carducci for a Pause Golosa (Delicious Break.)
A limited lunch menu, I had the artichoke salad and the Tagliatina di maialino con patate. We finished at 2 and decided not to wait an hour for the cathedral. On our return, Elisa tried to find a photography store that might have a replacement lens cap without success.
Dropping me at the Hotel Estense, I got checked in and moved my gear to room 204. Minor unpacking, I decided to visit the “Temple”, a large church not too far from the train station. Setting off on foot, the route took me by the Duomo di Modena, so I stopped in the cathedral. Less crowded than when I’d been there after Sunday Mass two years ago, I spent a half hour revisiting. To read my post from then, use this link.
The contrast of the vault in the crypt, with its elaborate ornamentation, to those I’d seen the day before was striking. It was also better lighted. Above, the choir seats in the apse, and hanging icon-like murals were awesome. The sacristy was open for viewing, and that space felt rather holy.
While I was inside the cathedral, a thunderstorm had visited Modena. When I left, intermittent showers flourished, and I ducked into multiple churches, taking more Stations pictures for my collection. By the time I reached the Tempio Monumentale di San Giuseppe ai Caduti in Guerra it was closed. Turning around, rather damp, I headed towards the hotel, with a stop at a small Tabac for a glass of red wine.
After changing my shirt to something dry, I did some internet work. Leaving, I resolved to try for an ATM, hoping for more luck, however it was fruitless. (Maps failure!) Pushing 8pm, I wandered a bit more, finally finding Mi Piace, a trattoria with 4.7 stars on Google (from 516 reviews.) Their menu offered a “traditional dish”, explained as Fried gnocco and tigelle, pesto Modenese, local cold cuts, stracchino, and lambrusco ribs accompanied by baked potatoes. With still water and a glass of sangiovese, I settled into my table on the sidewalk (under cover) and began updating my journal.
There was too much delicious food, and the staff rushed when serving. I spoke with the patrons at the neighboring table: four forty-somethings, 3 Italian and a Swede out for a business dinner. They spoke in English, and welcomed my joining the conversation.
Back to the room, I settled in, finding the bed quite narrow and hard. After reading a bit, I went to sleep.
Day 108 Piacenze
Rising at 8, ahead of the 8:15 alarm, I headed down to the breakfast buffet and had a hardboiled egg, bread, cheese, cold cuts, OJ and coffee. With the train workers returning from their one-day strike, I left the Estense at 9:20 and headed for the station. Well ahead of the 10am train, I was pleased to find the station’s lifts worked, so I rolled to wait on the platform.
A very full train, I sat with my bags by the door for the 75-minute ride, chatting with a foursome from Pelham, New York. A 50-something couple and sons 21 and 16. They were exploring their Italian heritage, and we had good talk until they left at Reggio Emilia. Continuing on, it was an easy walk from the train station in Piacenza to the B&B del Vicolo.
After settling the check-in, I was pleased that room 3 was ready for me. Up a switchback set of stairs, it has a single twin bed. Small, with a step up to the shower, it would work for a night
The local cathedral was due to close at 12:30, so I hustled and got there at noon. With time of the essence, I did my inside photos first, thoroughly. A three-aisle floorplan with a transept, I found the nave to be dark, despite the black-and-white stirpes of marble on the floor. The vault of the Basilica Cattedrale di Santa Giustina e Santa Maria Assunta / Cathedral Basilica of St. Justina and St. Mary of the Assumption is elaborate, medallions depicting saints and frames enriching the surface. The crypt under the sanctuary gets some natural light, the short columns and arches composed of cream-colored marble.
Above, the reredos of the high altar is a brilliant example of filagree work blended into the carvings. The illustrations in the vault are allegorical and historical scenes, which cry for proper restoration, removing years of soot. But for a church founded in 1122, it is in remarkable condition. And I managed to squeak in a few extra minutes inside before returning outside to get external photos. Both the north and west nave faces were under wraps, a tall red construction crane looming overhead. My best shots were of the curve of the apse to the transept arm.
The plaza in front of the cathedral was filled with market umbrellas, raised to shade the merchandise being offered in the open-air market. Whie hunting for my angle, I checked out and bought a t-shirt and a polo. I returned to the hotel as my shirt was in serious need of laundering, and then headed to the station, keeping an eye out for a bank with an ATM. Still no luck!
Catching the train, I rode two stops to Fidenza, actually backtracking 45km of my journey that morning. A 600m zigzag walk through a clean and pristine city, the Cattedrale di San Donnino Mattire / Cathedral of St. Domninus has similar boxy wraps over scaffolding, but covering the roof, the transept face, and the clerestory. A rather boring façade, the square belltowers and portion over the three entry doors lack ornamentation.
On entering, the black-and-white diamond pattern on the floor caught my eye. Scaffolding filled the upper sanctuary and ran down the sides of the central nave along the columns. A single rank of pews ran down the center. Murals appear in patches around the church, including the half dome of the apse. The crypt is barely lighted, but the inlay of the cathedra pleased me. I resorted to flash for some shots!
Back to the Fidenza station at 4:20, that train was canceled. Another behind it for Ancona arrived, not in the Eurail app, so I added and rode back north. I’d planned a 30km taxi run to the Cistercian Abbey in Fortevivo, an ex-cathedral, but thought better of it, considering the hour.
Once back in Piacenza, as I headed to the room, I passed by and entered the Basilica di San Savino. It faces out to the Giardini Merluzzo, a triangular block. San Savino was founded as a monastery in 903, retaining that function into the 1800’s. There are awesome mosaics in the crypt floor, including depictions of the signs of the zodiac.
Then I headed back to the room, passing through the Piazza Duomo which was clear of merchants. At the room using WiFi, I made my follow-up call to Mexico; then checked in with my neighbors in Florida.
By 7:30 I was ready to find dinner, and began a wander. I followed Via Roma to Cavour (every city in Italy seems to have these street names,) which took me to the city center. Plenty of bars and saloons, but no restaurants. Heading back towards the cathedral, I found Osteria Carducci. Accompanied by two wines by the glass (Cantina Romagnoli/Ortrugo fermo Filanda and Azienda Agricola La Vis/pinot nero), I started with fried gnocco and then had gnocchi with a duck ragu. Yes, there was an English menu. The gnocco are pillows of puff pastry which, while going well with the white wine, called out for a spread to eat with them.
About 8:15pm they served the primi, a smallish portion in a large bowl. No AC or fans, it was warm, and there were three eating in the restaurant: a 60yo Italian gentleman, a 35yo French woman and me. The gnocci were hot, full of flavor, duck meat was ground and sauteed before mixing into the ragu. Absolute divine. Opting for another pasta dish, I had the tagliolini with salami pasta, sun-dried tomatoes and roast sauce, which wasn’t as flavorful. A second glass of red was needed, but I didn’t get the particulars. By 10pm I was back in the room.
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