Serbian Explorations based from Belgrade
- KB Cook
- Oct 31
- 17 min read
Day 40 to Belgrade
At 11 I boarded the bus in Sarajevo. With 25 seats, one side was paired, 5 seats across the back, and single seats on the right side where I got a seat. Most of the time, there were 2-3 more standing in the aisle as we rode through lovely countryside.
Five hours after leaving, after numerous stops in villages along the way and the driver’s hourly breaks of 10-15 minutes, we arrived at the border at the Raca Bridge over the Sava River. Unlike entering Bosnia, it only took a single stop and 15 minutes to cross out of the country.
Once we cleared, it was smooth sailing for another two and a half hours without stops, arriving in Novi Beograd station. Once in Serbia, the land was flat, agricultural, and clean.
Well outside where I wanted to be, the “new Belgrade” was the expansion west beyond the Sava River as it came into confluence with the Danube River. My lodgings were near the heart of Belgrade. Another English-speaking fellow and I stumbled around a bit, looking for public transport into town, but nothing looked promising. As he continued to search, I walked out to the taxi stand and caught a ride to the Belgrade City Hotel, dropping 600 dinar.
With a large public space out the front door, and the old train station well beyond it, I climbed the two steps into reception. Six tall men (and I’m still 6-foot, and these guys were 4-8 inches taller!) were in the process of working out arrangements to check in. They deferred to me, allowing me to go first. A wedding party, the women had their lodgings all settled, but these Serbian and Macedonian men were still figuring out who bunked with whom. I promised them all a beer if I ran into them again, and headed up to my room #15.
I had plenty of space, a king bed, sitting chair and a desk with chair. A single window looked out at an alley. The bath was sufficient, with a quarter-circle shower, the commode and a wash stand with almost enough surface space.
Leaving and looking for Serbian food, I wandered around the block, down a few streets before returning to a five-point intersection and settling at a table outdoors (no smokers nearby) to order a caprese salad, a diavolo pizza and a draft Moretti at Tutto Bene. After finishing the pizza with no salad appearing until I asked for it again, I had the tomatoes and mozzarella for dessert. And I noted that there were now mosquitoes munching on exposed skin.
Day 41 Belgrade 1
Waking at 8, I had 4 churches to see in the city before a 4pm walking food tour. I spent time trying to arrange for a courier for my gear in Sarajevo, visiting the local DHL office (who couldn’t care.) Breakfast in the hotel, where I saw the men with the women of the bridal party. Realizing that I had enough time to get the overflowing laundry done, I emptied the small roller, stuffed it, and set off back to the 5-points and down the street a bit. The token dispenser worked with credit cards, so I was soon loading two machines with 4 tokens each, and settled in to see if I might work some magic and get my currency back. Even after running two dryers, I was barely a little further along.
By noon I was back in the room and just dropped off my clean clothing. Grabbing my camera, I headed out enjoying the great weather and beautiful city.
I was off to the Co-Cathedral of Christ the King / Konkatedrala Krista Kralja, which was a small inner-city church opposite the Embassy of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta. Well-kept grounds behind an open iron and stone fence, it was frustrating to find it closed at midday.
Heading to the main Roman Catholic cathedral, it was a long 2km walk. Coming to the flower market, I sought some shade for a few blocks, walking under the tents and umbrellas, enjoying the perfumed air.
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The Cathedral of Assumption of Blessed Virgin Mary / Katedrala Blažene Djevice Marije is modern, south of city center near Neimarski Parkić. Approaching from the west, the iron fencing looked foreboding. Very boxy, the building was consecrated in 1988, and is noted as being at the crossroads of the Western and Orthodox beliefs. At the south end, a broad tower rises in beige stone, with a mural depicting Christ surrounded by 5 figures, with 2 more in the lower corners. This building forms the narthex entered by climbing a set of stairs from the street.
Coming into the nave, I passed under a loft where the organ and its pipes are visible. Red-brown pillars support the very dark vaults of the side and central aisles. The floor is tiled in marble in a red-brown and white diamond pattern. Seating in the nave is individual chairs, similarly colored. Stained-glass windows in bright colors and modern design are widely spaced down the side aisles. The sanctuary wall is filled with a huge mural, depicting the Virgin Mother both as sleeping (Orthodox) and assumed (Western) with depictions of both Western and Orthodox saints, including St Sava, below Christ and angels.
When I had arrived, the building was locked. Adjoining the cathedral on the same campus, is a monastery, and I had entered, requesting access. A seminarian gathered keys and allowed me access, without being a chaperone. As I left, I ensured the doors were locked, and advised him of my departure. We chatted briefly about Cathedrals to the Glory of God and my obsession.
My next destination was the Temple of St Sava, which I had considered not a cathedral. Heading northwest, another kilometer, a large oxidized green dome began peeking through rooftops. With a Greek cross footprint, the large central dome has smaller half-domes at the cardinal directions. Walking around in the beautiful park, I found that the western door was open. (The Forerunner, John the Baptist, is portrayed in the central mosaic over south entry; Christ over the west. Mary Mother of God is above the north entry door.)
The future cathedral Church of Saint Sava / Храм Светог Саве knocked my socks off! With mosaics and murals, many gilded, not a surface had been left unadorned. While the area in front of the iconostasis is cordoned off, the immensity of the building space just overwhelmed the senses. And there was more: stairs descended into a massive modern crypt, with uplighting creating a golden glow. Walls and ceiling were all decorated with icons telling stories and honoring saints. Seeking out the metropolitan’s throne, I found possibilities both in the crypt and on the main floor.
Setting out for my final church on my list, Maps reported 2.7km and 40 minutes, which I knew the timing was an underestimate. Because it was very near my rendezvous point for my walking tour, I hoped to get there with 15-20 minutes to spare. Interestingly, I passed the Apostolic Nunciature, the office of the representative of the Vatican to Serbia. My journey was a gradual climb, and I only got slightly misdirected a few times. A minute or so before arriving, a museum with models representing multiple domed churches and cathedrals tried to distract me.
But then I stood across the street from the Cathedral of Saint Archangel Michael/Саборна Црква Светог Архангела Михаила, on the steps of the Orthodox episcopal offices.
Unable to enter because a wedding was underway, I took several outside shots of the very light gray single-tower building. Crossing the street, Kafana Znak Pitanja (Question Mark) was my final goal. Booking Food and culture tour in Belgrade at Viator, this small group walking tour promised a variety of local food and beverages to accompany hearing about Belgrade.
Melica greeted me shortly after I entered at 4, and I learned I was the only participant. First offering at (Question Mark) was Turkish coffee, which I drank without my usual addition of sugar or milk. (Or ice, which is how some Floridians get started in the morning.) We chatted as she explained about the café’s name being just the “?” since its founding.
When I explained about my walk around Belgrade that day, she told me that St Michael’s is the current Orthodox cathedral, however, St Sava, the largest Orthodox church in the world, would become the local cathedral once the episcopal residence and offices were relocated nearby.
Leaving ? and slowly strolling to Knedly, a dessert place, the next sample was a potato flour ball with plum inside. Not my cup of tea, but a traditional sweet in Serbia.
Continuing her stories about food traditions, we headed to a small hole-in-the-wall which proved to be quite popular. Opening at 5pm, a queue waited to place orders for pizza. Melica offered me options, and I was handed a large slice covered with a chicken salad spread: a new experience. I ate it all enjoying the mix of flavors while trying to avoid getting the messy mayonnaise-like topping from dripping on my clothing.
To wet my whistle after the pizza, we slipped into Antik where I had a bottle of Zaječarsko pivo before we headed to Drama, a neighboring open-air eatery where she ordered cevapi, which got a big smile from me. She offered me the options of a stopping in a bar for a shot of Serbian rakija, or the traditional student evening activity of beer and snacks sitting in the park. I opted for the latter, getting another can of beer to sip on while eating peanut-flavored cheese sticks.
Parting, I wended my way through now familiar Belgrade to the hotel, getting twilight shots of the pedestrian streets. Leaving the clean laundry for the next day, I did a bit of Internet (Facebook, email) before some reading and then lights out.
Day 42 Belgrade 2
The breakfast buffet at the Belgrade City Hotel was very similar to what I’d experienced on the few occasions where I booked breakfast – spicy sausage, eggs, croissant, muffin, coffee and OJ. I’d confirmed via WhatsApp with Milos, my daytrip.com driver for the day, and he was outside with his car, an Opel SUV, promptly at 8am. The route I’d planned would take us to 5 cathedrals to the south-southeast of the Serbian capital. Furthest away was the starting point, the city of Niš, a bit more than two hours and 240km. Our conversation was intermittent, but I noted he shared interesting knowledge as he drove carefully.
First stop was the Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity / Саборни Храм Свете Тројице. He parked to the south, and I walked around the basically square footprint to the west facing entrance. Arches supported an overhanging coverage in case of rain, with a belltower and clock over the entry. At each corner, and at the center crossing were domed lanterns. The building was open, but Sunday service was underway, so my few pictures were taken over the heads of the standing congregation.
Niš is an important city, both historically and in modern times. Significant Roman contributions, both in leadership and economically, left many ruins. During the 400 years of Ottoman occupation, an uprising at the start of the nineteenth century gave the city a tourist landmark: Skull Tower. The Ottomans killed and decapitated the local men, mounting their skulls into the four walls of a concrete tower. Many still remain in place, so Milos suggested a visit. Painted in pale yellow, the square building with an octagonal cap protects the tower from the elements. Informational placards line the interior walls. For me, this made history more real.
Continuing onward, we headed to the Niš Fortress. Built by the Ottoman Turks, the compound occupies a large park in the center of the city. While he waited at the curb, I made a quick run through the gate and got off a handful of shots.
Then heading back in the direction of Belgrade, we rode for about an hour to Kruševac. The Cathedral of St. George Church / Црква Светог Ђорђа was open and empty, its exterior red walls trimmed in white and an entry facing south.
Brightly colorful inside, the walls, arches and vault are covered in iconic murals, with a cerulean background and halos in gold. A large brass octagonal chandelier is suspended at the crossing, below a gorgeous dome fresco. My notes report that I found the cathedral to be a delight.
On our way out of Kruševac, he stopped along the Lazarica Church for a photo. A christening was underway, so my sole inside shot is of the wall behind the iconostasis. The Church of the Holy First Martyr Stephen was built in 1375 and is the starting point for religious processions locally. Through a tree line and across a field are the remain of Prince Lazar’s Fortress from the same period.
Getting back underway, three quarters of an hour later we were passing through Ratina when a small church on a hill caught my eye. St. John the Baptist Serbian Orthodox Church / Српска православна Црква Светог Јована Крститеља has a striped silver-gray exterior with silver domes. Bult in 1990 in the Raško-Moravian style, the furnishings are underway in this smaller replica of the Ravanica Monastery. I felt the stop was worth the time in this small church.
Getting back on track, twenty minutes later I was approaching the tall and narrow yellow exterior of the Cathedral Church of the Most Holy Trinity / Црква Свете Тројице in Kraljevo. A patterned stone path led east to the single entrance door. A small christening was underway in front of a double-height gilded iconostasis. Exiting, I walked around the building snapping shots.
Kragulevac was the next stop on eastward loop we were making on our return north. With a long wrought-iron fence lining the street, an open gate led me to the Cathedral of Assumption of the Theotokos Svetouspenjski / Saborni hram Светоуспенски Саборни храм. The exterior is a cream white, with red vertical stripes.
Five domes, one in the center and the others at the corners, are capped in slate gray, topped with gold crosses. Inside, red and black marble tiles of the floor form a geometric pattern. The brass chandelier is suspended under the central dome, where the cerulean background reminded me of earlier that day. Icon medallions of saints fill the arches; icons of Church Fathers and angels cover the columns. With all the opulence, I was surprised at the simplicity of the small iconostasis.
We rejoined the north-south highway and resumed the northward drive on the E-75 until the junction with A1 where we instead headed east on 33 to Požarevac. After 80 minutes, a brick archway led into a park where the Cathedral of Saint Archangels Michael and Gabriel Саборна црква Светих Архангела Михаила и Гаврила у Пожаревцу stands.
A small pale-yellow building with a single spire tall over the entry door, surrounding mature trees filled the view. In the nave, with rich warm gold and blue slate predominating the palette, a pair of crystal chandeliers adding to the light from the side windows. The iconostasis gilding looked older, less polished to a sheen.
Back in the car, Milos remarked that of the 5 cathedrals, only the last, St Michael and Gabriel, was unknown to him. He thanked me for expanding his knowledge, and we then set off for the hotel in Belgrade. The booking was due to end at 6pm, and Milos had me there in time. I spent about an hour in the room, charging a camera battery, unpacking the laundry.
Out and around the corner, I returned to the 5-points intersection, choosing the ethnic Balkan restaurant Zavičaj. Starting with a large draft beer, the simple salad was tomatoes, chopped lettuce and sliced cucumbers. I ordered the beef goulash, which came with mashed potatoes, and an order of zanatski (handcrafted or artisanal) cevapi with kajmak which came with fries. As I was mid meal, a foursome (potentially Israeli) left, with the older woman wishing me “bon appetit” and saying I was quite handsome. No, I didn’t get a swelled head.
When I returned to room 15, I began organizing a packet to send home. I’d accumulated 20 bars of chocolate; the two cruises had added to my collection of paperwork, and there were several new t-shirts. Uploading cathedral pictures to Facebook, I also had a video from Adis. My driver guide for the morning, Vladmir, confirmed via text for the 9am pickup.
Day 43 Belgrade 3
After breakfast at the buffet, I’d returned to my room to collect my jacket, camera and gear. As I came down the stairs, I had a text from Vladmir – he was early but outside. Booked through ToursByLocals, I had a loop to the north west planned. Our first stop would be in Zrenjanin, due north 80km.
Facing south onto a very large square, the Catholic Cathedral of Saint John of Nepomuk Katedrala sv. Ivanu Nepomuku sits next to the city library. I approached on the street along its west side, the warm-sand color trimmed with an orangy ochre.
Cruciform in footprint with a transept at the middle of its length, a single spire rises above the sole entryway. Inside, a red carpet-runner leads over the black-on-white tiles to three steps into the sanctuary. An altar table sits under the mural of the Mary, Queen of Heaven at the crossing, while the older high altar sits at the back of the apse under a large oil painting of the patron St John. More murals and mosaics decorate the walls and vault.
Across the way was the National Museum, and we were admitted to see the ground floor exhibits. Clothing and artifacts of the turn of the twentieth century were the highlights. After 10 minutes, and using the facilities, we crossed the plaza and returned to the car.
Heading west, we arrived in Novi Sad in less than an hour. The Saint George's Cathedral / Саборна Црква Светог Ђорђа is aligned east-west, about 45° to the rectilinear street plan.
Tall and narrow, the ivory façade has narrow horizontal lines, looking like mortar. With three doorways under walled-up window frames, there is a single clock- and belltower over the western façade. Unfortunately, services were underway. Vladmir had done his research, and we walked across the street to the Atrium Hamam and Spa, where, on the rooftop, a café offered tea and coffee, and a great view of the Orthodox cathedral. In addition to the mint tea, I had a piece of baklava. Returning, the church was nearly empty.
The walls of the nave were modestly adorned, but the east end was filled with a double-height iconostasis. Gilded and filled with scenes from Christ’s life and saints and angels, carvings throughout filled the holy screen.
We strolled the broad plaza, admiring the many examples of architecture. At a square called Cathedral Park, the Catholic Holy Name of Mary Church beckoned. Classic neo-gothic, rounded columns rose to a ribbed vault. The altarpiece in the apse was carved of dark wood, statues of kings on either side of a painting of the Virgin Mary above a gold tabernacle.
Keeping it ecumenical, we visited the Novi Sad Synagogue, a wide building with a large dome, ivory with burnished brass colored trim. For some reason, many of my pictures are out of focus!
Turning south and then crossing and following the Danube into Sremski Karlovci, where the Cathedral of Translation of Relics of Saint Nicholas / Саборна црква Светог Николе is hidden by mature trees along the street. A broad and deep building, twin spires flank the white western façade. The central doorway had one side open, so we entered. A red runner, with repeating double headed eagles ran the length of the nave.
I’d say the predominate color was butterscotch, in the stenciling that filled the vault, and covered the walls above the wooden seats and paintings that lined the lower sides of the nave. Filling the apse arch, a huge wall of gold framed images filled four levels above the iconostasis doors level.
Passing through Ruma, our next destination was in Sremska Mitrovica. Arriving at 3, we found the Cathedral Basilica of Saint Demetrius / Bazilika Katedrala sv. Dimitrija on a tree-lined street and across from a triangular park. What I call “Papal yellow” with a cream trim, the cathedral basilica has a single tower over the single door entry which faces north. And it was locked.
Heading south to Sabac, the overhead clouds began darkening, and by the time we reached the city, thunderstorms had broken out. The square in front of the Cathedral of Saint Apostles Peter and Paul / Српска православна црква Светих апостола Петра и Павла was empty and wet. The façade of the monochrome church is a shade of parchment, a blocky tower rising to a slate-colored dome over the single double-door entry. The building faces true west, against the grid of the city streets.
Inside, it was rather dark, although with patience, the Nikon was able to capture the plethora of murals adorning the curved vault. Three levels of gilded framed icons rise above the tall doors of the iconostasis, filling the archway. Going back outside, I pulled out my umbrella to protect the Nikon lens from the continuing rain. Outside, a memorial to the “fallen people of Šabac” honors soldiers and civilians from both sides who died and were mass buried in the ruins of the cathedral during the Balkan Wars (1912-13) and WW I.
An hour and a half later, Vladmir was dropping me off at the hotel. On our way, he lent me his phone to speak with the Sarajevo hotel regarding my wallet. Regulations regarding shipments across borders was going make this very complicated and difficult. I dreaded having to return to Sarajevo, thinking it might be from Sofia.
Once back in the room, I backed up my photos, reaching a point where I’d be removing those copies once I was sure I had double backups. The camera battery backup went slowly, but I had it ready to pack into my string bag – I’d lost a battery somewhere in my entering and exiting cars over the past days. Getting the bigger roller packed, I did some Internet and read before going to bed.
Day 44 Leaving Serbia
Breakfast Tuesday morning was at the buffet, eggs and cheese, croissant and muffin, OJ and coffee. I returned to the room, cleaned my teeth and packed away the small roller. Heading down the stairs, I checked out and was ready for Nenad, my daytrip.com driver. When I studied getting from Belgrade into Romania (returning to Schengen zone,) a bus ride would drop me in Vršac, where I had an hour to get across town to another bus depot, to continue my journey. As there are two cathedrals in Vršac, I didn’t feel great about missing them.
Nenad showed up in an Audi right at 9, and we loaded the boot with my luggage. I noted that he, 50yo with a 21yo daughter and a wife, was not particularly talkative, contrasting with Adis, Milos and Vladmir. It took us 90 minutes to get to Vršac.
First stop was the Cathedral St. Gerharda de Sangredo / Римокатоличка црква Светог Герхарда. Dual towers at the western entry, the southern was wrapped in scaffolding. Neo-gothic architecture, the central door was gated closed until 6pm Mass, I walked around the building, getting pictures of the north and south transept doorways, also protected with locked fences. The building’s exterior was of-white stone blocks. It is not actually a cathedral, being in the diocese od Zrenjanin, but is locally referred to as "cathedral".
Fifteen minutes later we arrived at the Cathedral of St.Nicholas / Саборни храм Светог Оца Николаја. Pale yellow exterior, with white highlights, A single spire rose over the tall central entrance door, but I approached from the east parking lot and first saw the rounded apse end. Under a mosaic of Bishop St Nicholas, the grillwork door was open.
Mostly white and unadorned walls, this orthodox cathedral has a step up to a sanctuary before the dual-tiered iconostasis. Contrasting, the modestly curved vault is filled with dark mural panels, each quartet revealing Christian history. The stained-glass windows depict kings and bishops, identified in Cyrillic script. Using the south door to leave, across the street is the green roof of the Episcopal Palace which impressed me with its size.
Back in the car, in fifteen minutes we arrived at the border with Romania. This crossing took no time at all, which greatly surprised me. Serbia had been relatively flat, while Romania had more rolling hills, as we continued an hour to Timișoara.
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