Bulgaria
- KB Cook
- Nov 20
- 14 min read
Day 51 Ruse/Pyce
[From my previous post, I'd left Bucharest by train, arriving across the southern Romanian border in Ruse, Bulgaria. After dropping my luggage at my hotel, my taxi driver took me back across the Danube into Guirgui, Romania to visit the cathedral there.] The twenty-minute ride north took an hour to go south, as two lanes were merged into one, and periodic construction pauses stopped movement altogether.
Dropping me at the Bulgarian Orthodox cathedral, I gratefully paid him in lev. The Holy Trinity Cathedral Church / Катедрален храм „Света Троица has a central white lantern tower set back over the stairs to the older underground nave. Entering a narthex-like space, a long staircase leads down past muraled walls to an arch. This arch opens into a second narthex and the actual nave which has a mural with the Trinity above it.
Triads of black armchairs serve as pews along the outside edges of the central aisle. Light caramel marble columns support the arches and vault. Fronting the sanctuary is an iconostasis set up three steps from the nave floor. Above the traditional 8 icons on the door level are two rows of two dozen smaller icons.
Next door, to the north, is the State Opera House in Ruse, a large red and white building facing out onto the same pedestrian promenade. After passing the square containing the Monument of Liberty, I turned west on Ulica Knyazheska for 15 minutes, then turning north towards the river. To my right on a corner stood the St Paul of the Cross Cathedral / Катедрален храм „Свети Павел от Кръста" / Katedralen hram „Sveti Pavel ot Krasta".
Two stories, red brick-clad, a central belltower rises over the entrance. Built in 1890 in “Brick Gothic” style (per Wikipedia), it looked like something I’d seen in Philadelphia.
The interior was fairly dark as the side trio of stained-glass windows are narrow, and there are no clerestory lights. The color palette is earthy, moss green, taupe, a Marian blue; there is a significant amount of stenciling. A portrait venerates the patron, St Paul of the Cross who founded the Passionist order.
When I left, I walked to the river front, choosing to walk part of the 3km to the hotel along the Danube. Once away, I walked the paved pedestrian spaces through commercial stretches, and through tree-filled parks, all with folks out enjoying the weather. Two hours later, I was able to get into my room #5. A king bed filled the space near the window, the bath compact, with an open space for the shower.
All during the walk while heading back, my phone kept lighting up – with nuisance calls from my home area code, and from a bank because my credit card had been compromised. (Fortunately, not one I use overseas, as it has a currency conversion fee.) Heading out with a 20-minute walk, I had dinner which started with focaccia served with various spreads, then chicken teriyaki and rice. On my return I did internet stuff, skipped backups, and charged the camera battery and the toothbrush.
Day 52 Sofia 1
Not a great night – the blinds in the room ran horizontal, not fully blocking out the security light outside. And the sun was fully up and shining at 6am. So I got up much earlier than a 9:40 bus would indicate, dealt with a shower that got water everywhere as there were no walls or curtain, and the floor was soaked. Down and out, I opted to take a taxi rather than the 40-minute 2km walk with the luggage. I just missed the earlier bus, so I hung out outside as there was no waiting room.
Hearing North American English, I wound up talking with a dude who was trying to get back to Istanbul so he could fly home to Seattle. His phone was giving him issues, so I lent him one of mine to make a few brief calls.
Once the bus arrived, about 30 boarded, with me near the back. Arrival in Sofia was out 5 hours, but we make a stop at a roadside waystation for half an hour after we’d been underway 90 minutes. I had a sausage in a pita (or the Bulgarian equivalent.)
About half way, we joined a caravan of vehicles waiting a turn at the one-way traffic due to construction. Despite the delay, we still arrived on time, and half an hour later I was checked in to Hotel Favorit. An elevator building, I was in room 302, which had a pair of twin beds, a desk, a pair of sitting chairs with a small table. The bathroom had a small tub with shower and curtain, but little shelf space.
Shortly after getting settled in, I was out walking the broad streets of Sofia. Minarets seemed more frequent than Christian churches, by 4 I was in front of the Catholic Cathedral of Sofia - St. Joseph Parish / Католическа катедрала на София - енория „Свети Йосиф.With a close neighboring building to its north, separated by only a needle bell tower, the better views would be from the southwest, albeit hiding the tower. Entering the narthex, I learned from a young man waiting on confession that the church would be open for Mass at 6.
Out behind the cathedral was an open-air archeological dig – I planned to return. Nearby (to the north) was the Central Synagogue of Sofia / Централна синагога на София, a Sephardic temple built in the early 1900s. For the fee, I did a self-guided (on the phone) tour of the octagonal building. It was quite informative.
To the south was the next on my list, Saint Nedelya Orthodox Cathedral / Катедрален храм „Света Неделя. Set at the end of a commercial boulevard, vehicular traffic divided to the north or south. Trees surround the building. Use of a camera inside required paying a fee, which I did, despite a small service being underway. With a large dark dome, much of the walls and ceilings were in darkness. Even the iconostasis was barely lighted.
Returning to St Joseph, there was 5 minutes between the Eucharistic Adoration and the start of Mass. I moved quickly through the nave, getting those elements I consider important, and noting that the tall white walls were clear of adornment.
There is a gallery, but access was restricted. Out, I passed through the market and began walking north towards my hotel, passing over the Lions Bridge (over the dry Vladaya River.)
As I was going to be up early for a flight to Belgrade to get my currency wallet, I figured on an early dinner. Dropping into a restaurant, The Dragan Cry, down the street, I started with an appetizer assortment with three scoops of herb-flavored soft cheese. I followed this with Petlova sabia – chicken shahslik, accompanied by a glass of red wine, supposedly flavored with wormwood. I was full and headed to the hotel and crashed.
Day 53 Sofia 2 & Belgrade
Despite a couple having a shouting match for a half hour at 12:30, I woke again at 2am. I was up and downstairs in 20 minutes, in a taxi in another 10, and at the airport by 2:50 for a 5am flight. I got checked in, passed through security, and then went to wait for instructions to board a bus for the trip to the aircraft out on the tarmac. By 4:40 we were moving, and the passenger load was queued up to climb the stairs and board through the rear door. I was traveling light - my camera, just a phone and my reader.
Off on time, and we were down on time 70 minutes later. Leaving the jetway, there were large empty halls to cross to get to passport control. Quickly I was at the curb looking for bus #72, which would take me into Belgrade. There’d been a time zone change, so I landed almost the same time as I’d left. The office I needed to visit wasn’t open until 9am, and my return flight was 1:20pm. I had 6-7 hours to burn. Bus #73 was non-stop (no changes) into the city, and would put me very close to the old Serbian Orthodox cathedral, which I’d only been outside of.
Arriving at 6:50, the cathedral was due to open at 7; that actually happened at about 7:10. The benefit of being first, the chandelier wasn’t turned on, and I was able to get great interior shots in St Michael’s Cathedral. Exiting, I was elated. I used the WC on the church property, and upon exiting, ran into a priest who was originally from Niagara Falls, Ontario. We had a quick chat before he had to go join his fellow priests for morning prayers.
It was then about 8am, and Maps gave me a route and a timeframe, which would allow me to get to the In Time International Courier Service offices, out near the airport. Getting on bus #706 (all buses are free in 2025), I rode out to a bus stop seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Checking, I plodded along the roadway for a bit, then turned down a lesser road which took me into an industrial park. Maps had me walk to the back fence nearest the building I needed, so I had to backtrack through a neighboring property to get to the front door.
It became obvious that they don’t get many visitors. Most of the door were locked, and fortunately, a fellow came out, had enough English to determine I needed to get upstairs, and after a confirming phone calls, escorted me to the purser. Collecting my pouch, I asked if I could give my Bosnian currency to the assistant in Sarajevo who’d made this all happen. Putting it into a dispatch pouch with a note, my next quandary was how to get to the airport. Advised that public transportation would require returning to the city, and that taxis rarely came out this far, a solution appeared. The guy who had met me initially was heading home, and could drop me within walking distance of the airport entrance.
Great solution, we got into his car and we were off. We talked about the world and how tough it was to raise boys 23 and 14. I’d held back some Serbian funds for food, and offered him some, but he refused – it was his good deed for the day. Leaving with a big smile and offering much thanks, I strolled through the entrance and wended my way to the check-in desk.
Once I cleared security, got through duty free, I found lunch of coffee and a chicken sandwich at 11am, and then settled in to wait. The flight was scheduled for 13:20, and my picture of the crowd waiting to climb aboard is 7 minutes before that, so we were off late. Not full, we got to Sofia, got through control and headed out to the bus depot.
Only there was a bus strike in Sofia that day, the middle of May, so I just hopped into a taxi. At the hotel, I dropped my reader and my journal, and headed out for the third (of 4) cathedrals on my list. Two kilometers south, after more than a half hour, I approached the "Dormition of the Holy Mother of God" Catholic Cathedral / Католически катедрален храм “Успение Богородично”. Bulgarian Catholic, I found it similar to the several Greek Catholic churches I’d visited. The plaques outside noted visits by Archbishop Roncalli (later Pope John XXIII), and Pope John Paul II in 2002. It had been consecrated in 2016. A smaller white building with a central tower over the entry, the nave was fairly small.
As it was time for evening Mass, I decided to stay. After the service, I spoke with the archpriest in French, as he was curious about this stranger, and we were lucky to find a common language.
As I headed back to the hotel, I took more pictures of the Sofia Mosque - Banya Bashi / Софийска джамия - „Баня Баши“ which had joined my list of buildings to visit. It occupied the fourth corner of holy places in the center of Sofia – the synagogue, Catholic cathedral, Orthodox cathedral being the others. I made a quick detour through a supermarket in what had to have been a recycled usage of a terminal or warehouse building.
Not grabbing my journal, I stopped before get to the hotel and entered The Bridge. A bustling tourist restaurant, more interested in turning tables than classic patient European establishments, I had a glass of red wine with a pepperoni and gorgonzola pizza. Vanilla trifle for dessert, and then I was off to the hotel to backup several days of photos and catch up on email. I set my alarm for 9, hoping for peace and quiet overnight.
Day 54 Sofia 3
Sunlight streamed in early, but I stayed in bed until 8:30. After cleaning up, I headed to the Customs House Post Office, only to be told to use a closer normal post office. I went back and collected my items to be shipped and found the nearest PO. And I arrived to a screaming match going on between two of the clerks, with customers trying to climb into the walls to avoid getting involved. My arrival apparently dampened the mood, and the women went back to their posts. Learning that I had stuff to send overseas (with a list), the senior agent began by finding me a box and started packing it, thus being able to inspect for contraband. Once it was packed, taped up and wrapped in brown paper, the supervisor began keying in from my list. By 10:30 I walked out 113 lev lighter, a receipt in hand, and the screaming resumed before the door fully closed behind me.
Because of my trip to Belgrade, the two tours I’d booked for Wednesday had been shifted to this day, and I had a rendezvous at 11am. Arriving a bit ahead at the mosque, I determined I was to be at St Nedelya Orthodox Cathedral. Hoofing it as fast as I could, I arrived just as they were dividing the groups by language, with most of the English-speaking going on the special Jewish History focus. With 9 others, Ivo led us out on the 2-hour Free Sofia Tour.
Crossing the street once his introduction was complete, we looked down on the archeological site next to the Catholic cathedral. Continuing the clockwise route, our next stop was south of the Banya Bashi, the main mosque that I’d been trying to visit. Still not happening, heading east we moved to in front of the Regional History Museum of Sofia, and the thermal fountain below it which feeds a spigot on the outside of the building. Entering into a space under a new building, we saw archeological evidence of an old Roman street which ran between the east and west gates.
Ivo then took us to the Ancient Orthodox Rotunda Church of Saint George, just east of St Nedelya to observe more damp (because it was periodically drizzling) ruins. After passing through the National Gardens and a great fountain, and the theater,
we arrived in front of the new Orthodox cathedral, where, after a discourse, he left us. It was just after 1pm, and my next tour began at 2 although I thought it was 4. So after getting some outside shots (thanks to the umbrella,) I headed into the Patriarchal Cathedral St. Alexander Nevsky / Патриаршеска катедрала „Свети Александър Невски.
After paying 10 lev for the camera permit, I studied the entry. On the rounded walls of the narthex, large murals featured representations of holy saints. A doorway between the candle-selling (as well as other religious memorabilia) led into the nave. A dark massive space, chandeliers hanging from the vaulted dome much overhead provided mainly floor level lighting. Unfinished, the bare concrete walls of the arches of the arms were dark. Some surfaces had been painted, but I’d been told that the process is arduous, requiring fasting and prayer before beginning, and a church is usually done by a single artist.
A baldachin-like pavilion covers the patriarch’s seat, the cathedra, with two additional seats and is off to the right side in front of the modest iconostasis. Between, a smaller pavilion houses a single marble chair, probably for the metropolitan. Visiting on a sunny day would probably have been a better plan, but I still haven’t been able to order compatible weather.
Leaving the cathedral a bit after 2 (no longer thinking the tour would start at 4,) I messaged the tour company that I was running late and began heading to the Crystal Garden. Raining, it took about 5 minutes, and I was faced with a large square full of trees. Off to the southwest, I spotted a group, which turned out to be the Balkan Bites Food Tour, which had moved to under a café’s awning on the edge of the park. The guide, M, who had been rebooking for only twelve, then began calling her vendors back to make it a baker’s dozen.
The group consisted of 4 Israeli, pairs from Australia, Germany, Belgium and the USA, and me. Our first stop was at a Sri Lankan place where we had a yogurt dip with a fried patty of chickpea. It gave us all a chance to be dry and chat with one another. Moving next to Skaptol Burger, we were served a quarter of a hamburger on a bun – supposedly the best burger in town. An option, double patty with cheese, was available (yes, I did) and I had tried a quarter of a vegetarian burger as well. Out and onward, we headed to Be Winer, a nice wine shop, to sample Bulgarian red wine. For a small space, they have a great selection. (I noted that I would have returned if I had time and it stopped raining.)
Walking a few doors down, we slipped into a breakfast café, where we tried Mekitsi. (Per Google: Mekitsa (plural: mekitsi) is a traditional Bulgarian fried dough dish, similar to a doughnut or flatbread. It is a popular breakfast food known for its soft, chewy interior and crispy, golden exterior.) I likened it to funnel cake. Our final stop was at Hajji Dragan’s Cellars, a sister restaurant to the one across from my lodgings. Using stairs to get to the cellar, we were in a space I’d felt was like a winery cave. We sat at a long table and sampled rounds of bread topped with cheese, cold cuts, roasted veggies or sauce.
Breaking up at 4:30, we went our separate ways, huddling under umbrellas. I had almost 2km nearly due north to return to the hotel, but I enjoyed the stroll, stopping at Vitosha Street Bar for a dark Bulgarian ale draft. Continuing my journey, I was window shopping, but finding nothing to fill the empty space from sending the package home. Back about 7, my first task was to call CitiBank to deal with fraud on a credit card I wasn’t using (Domino’s Pizza in LA? Really?) and then just ate nibbles while I packed the bigger roller. Settling in, I sat back to do some reading and broke the stem of my readers. I’d dig out a spare pair once I got to Greece.
Day 55 Thessaloniki
Having arrived by train, the bus I was going to take to Thessaloniki departed at 10am from right next door. The sun streamed in brightly at 7, so I was up at 7:45 and out at 8:20. Reaching the terminal, I determined where I would need to be, and then headed to an orchid-filled café for chicken and potato soup with bread. Leaving, I had to return as I’d left my string bag (with my passport) on the chair. The bus arrived at 9:40, and I got my luggage stored underneath. The agent needed to see the cover of my passport (probably a Schengen issue) but I was one of about 30 on a half full bus.
Initially, once we cleared Sofia, we were on a 4-lane highway. Green but hilly, traffic moved smoothly. A six-hour ride, at points we were in a single lane, but we kept moving. Avoiding crossing into Northern Macedonia, we breached the mountains at the border (no authorities) and stopped for a 15-minute rest break. (We’d made two stops for passengers.) I got a bacon salad to eat on the bus – it was substantial.
Half the bus’s passengers got off at the station outside of town. I'd returned to Greece after a 45-year absence.
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