Aboard the NCL Viva 6-16 June 2025 Part I
- KB Cook
- Dec 19, 2025
- 18 min read
Day 75 NCL Viva 1 – boarding in Athens
Awakening at 8, my first concern was to get online to arrange for bill payments. With two of my credit cards out of commission, it was quick and easy. I was still tired, as the bed was too firm, and the shower was only a handheld. At least the blackout curtains were effective, as I was facing east. I’d removed the duvet from its cover, and slept comfortably with just the sheet.
Packing, I headed downstair and checked out, leaving my luggage while I headed out to replenish what airport security had confiscated. Toothpaste, and moisturizer were top of the list, as well as needing batteries for the flashlight. I found the drug store items, and figured I’d get batteries on Mykonos. A stop at the ATM for euros (mainly 50€ notes), and I returned to collect my bags.
Having walked to the pier earlier that week, I figured it would be a simple hike. Well, I’d seen berths A and B, and NCL was at G, so when a taxi driver came by, I opted for the 10€ ride.
Once in the cruise terminal, I couldn’t find my electronic paperwork, and checking the NCL site was useless. Fortunately, my passport allowed the check-in staff to find my records and issue me a boarding pass key. And of course, I neglected to write down or note my room number, so all I had was the deck (12) and a range (500s). I was in the solo cabins.
First thing on board, I headed to my muster station, which is now routine for me. Then my usual routine on NCL was to head to O’Sheehan’s for lunch, but the Viva didn’t have this 24-hour eatery. So I tried the Indulge Food Hall.
With multiple ethnic cook stations, a touch pad ordering tablet displayed the options and I was able to select my lunch. A mesclun salad with blackened tilapia, DanDan noodles, beef shish kabob and water hit the spot.
Checking with Guest Services, I found my room assignment to be 12563, so I headed to the cabin and emptied the small roller. With the Nikon, I headed out to the upper decks first, taking snaps of the harbor, a distant mountain top, the decks around the pool.
Returning to the solo lounge, I had cookies and water while I talked with Celeste and Shirley. About 4, I headed to see if my bag had arrived, and then pulled it inside and unpacked. I met my room steward, Christian.
Back topside for the sail away party, a few more shots and then to the Belvedere Bar, which would be the solos meeting place for the 10 nights of the cruise. Our assigned cruise staff from the Entertainment crew was Suazo, who proved to be popular and a delight. My notes indicate that the group was about evenly split along gender lines, with perhaps 70% over the age of 65. About 20 of us headed to the main dining room for dinner at 6.
Seated with 5 others, Mary, Carol, Steve, Bill and Mary, I ordered cream of cauliflower soup, Greek salad, chicken piccata with stracciatella for dessert. Without the booze package, I kept to water. Three of my table mates were British, so, with Bill, they kept to their conversation, while I chatted with (the second) Mary. After chitchat, I headed into the PG-13 improv in the smaller theater. Unfortunately for the performer, the “adult” audience had indulged their drink packages and heckled him.
Not a great hour, I headed to the library for the crossword puzzle and then off to Deck 12. In the solo lounge, I expected to find nibbles and soft drinks, but the place had been stripped clean by the crew. Apparently, a trip to 16 was required, with the buffet being the only venue for snacks.
Day 76 NCL Viva 2 – Mykonos
Starting the day with oatmeal, coffee and juice in the main dining room, I was pleasantly surprised to find NCL was providing a free shuttle from the distant berth into the port shopping town. With clear skies, I headed off the ship to join the queue for the bus, and riding into town. After taking shots of the harbor, including a restaurant which advised “Welcome to the least gourmet restaurant on the island”, I began wending my way through the narrow walkways.
Reaching about halfway across the bay, I came upon the Catholic Co-cathedral Church of Our Lady of the Rosary / Ιερός Καθολικός Ναός Παναγίας του Ροδαρίου. While I’d been to Mykonos on the MSC Divina cruise in July 2023, I had skipped the port town for an excursion and not visited this small white building with a blue dome.
With room inside the single aisled nave for about 50, the spartan adornments were limited to framed prints for the Stations of the Cross, a painting of St Dominic receiving the Rosary over the altar and a depiction of the Last Supper over the narthex. White walls, the interior of the dome matched the blue of its exterior. A cushioned carved marble armchair sat against the back apse wall, raised up a step which might have been a cathedra, but I saw nothing to indicate that it wasn’t the celebrant’s chair.
Nearby, a Greek Orthodox church, somewhat larger, had a red dome with the four roof arms of the church also in red. Bougainville abounded, on houses, in restaurant al fresco dining areas, against white-washed stone wall.
By 11:15 I’d returned to the ship, climbing to the Observation Lounge to journal and relax. My notes indicate my right foot (the one with the worst bunion) had hurt overnight, and continued to bother me while walking the stone walkways on Mykonos. On shore I’d visited a pharmacy, where, in addition to batteries, I got a wrapping strap which seems to have helped. I thought I might have strained a muscle, but I’d also used my other set of shoes and its orthotic the previous day, so needed to go back to the tried and true.
My notes report that the crossword puzzle was easy, and that I needed to get Christian, my room steward, to add egg-crate padding to the bed to ease my shoulder discomfort. Then I tackled emails, as I was still coordinating my private tours in Turkey, which would be over the following three days.
Allowing the noon crush to diminish, I headed to the buffet for lunch about 1. After making a green salad, I added a scoop of tuna salad and a piece of prosciutto pizza. I was avoiding unnecessary climbs/descents on the stairs. (No, I won’t take an elevator.) Water and then juice kept me hydrated. After letting lunch settle, I descended to my cabin, where I changed my shirt and rewrapped the ankle/foot. Grabbing what I’d need for the evening, I headed to the floor of the atrium.
Bill had left his hat behind at some point the night before, so I carried it with the pistachio Turkish delight candies that I’d picked up in Aegina to share. I got a club soda with bitters. At the solo meet-up, after handing off the hat, the group played “Last Man Standing” which I lasted only briefly. We headed to dinner early (the ship’s departure was at 9pm). My selections were a spinach dip with chips, New England clam chowder, rotisserie chicken and a scoop of raspberry sorbet.
With the early meal, I was able to go to the theater for the early Illusionist’s show. My reaction was it was more presentation and little magic. Climbing the steps to get to my cabin, I set up a camera battery for charging as well as plugging in both phones. I had an early rendezvous in the morning when we docked in Türkiye.
Day 77 NCL Viva 3 – Kuşadası
Originally, when I booked this cruise itinerary, besides starting in Thessaloniki (completely dropped for an extra sea day), we were to dock in Izmir. I was pleased as there are two cathedral sites there. But NCL modified the routing, and in Türkiye we would be stopping first in Kuşadası. Known as a beach resort town, it is closer to the Christian holy sites of Ephesus. I searched online for a guide for the day and a half in Istanbul, and they also had a local guide who could take me to Izmir from our port.
Awake at 6:40, picking up coffee and petit pain in the lounge, at 7:20, I was on the pier. Tijan found me, and we headed to her car and driver. A Mercedez van, they sat me in back while she sat up front. Our first stop, still in Kuşadası was a cliff covered in green foliage. Here was the location of the ruins of the former Cathedral of St George. Nothing to really see.
After hopping on the empty highway, we headed north 100km to Izmir. Our next stop was St. Mary's Church, / Santa Maria Katolik Kilisesi, which had been the pro-cathedral until 1874. Behind a concertina wire-topped wall and a solid metal gate, there was no possibility of admittance or a good photo.
Tijan had timed our arrival for 9:30, as Sunday Mass was to begin at 10 at the St. John's Cathedral / Aziz Yuhanna Katolik Katedrali. Unfortunately, not only were we ahead of schedule, the Mass had been rescheduled for 11. A guard and a seminarian were at the gate, and I was advised that I needed the bishop’s approval by email in order to take photos with the Nikon, however, I was allowed to use my phone camera.
With a limited zoom and held at arm’s length, I managed 20 shots. Square columns meet in arches and support the curved vault, all in white and pastel pink shades. It is a French-style Franciscan church. Side aisle had no pews, but side altars and stained-glass windows filled those walls. The cathedra was a highbacked wooden armchair under a carved wooden baldachin. Above and behind the high altar is a painting of the Evangelist patron.
With an all-aboard time of 4:30pm, we had about 7 hours and were an hour away, so Tajin offered me several options which involved Ephesus: I could go to Mary’s house and cursorily see Ephesus, or we could do the full St Paul tour of Ephesus. I chose the latter. Back to the highway, Sunday morning traffic was still light. After about an hour, Tijan suggest an early lunch (to beat the crowds), so we entered the Agora Restaurant in south Ephesus.
A pizza establishment, the choices were very Turkish in style. I started with a salad of shredded red cabbage and shredded carrots on a bed of red and green lettuce. The pizza was shaped as long bread loaves, the fillings of chopped meat, cheese and tomato gravy inside the “boat”. It was probably a Kuşbaşih Kaşarh Pide. It was served with garnishes of tzatziki, roasted peppers and a tomato-based salsa-like spread. Water to drink. I picked up the check.
Then on to the Ephesus Archeological site, where we arrived just about noon. The driver let us out at the entrance, moving to the exit where he’d meet us in a few hours. Tijan and I began walking through the ruins. She provided a substantial discourse covering the history of the area over a 6000-year period. We found it not overly crowded, and maneuvered around the several poorly behaving tourist groups. Again, she offered a choice, Mary’s house, or John the Evangelist’s burial place, and I chose the latter.
Realizing that I took 275 photos with the Nikon (and none with my phone since Izmir), with 3+ hours of narrative, there’s no way I could remember all of what I was told. I do remember that Christian merchants would subtly mark their entrances so fellow believers would know which were friendly businesses. Symbols were both crosses and a circle with a cross and an X(chi) for Christ, dividing it in eighths. The amphitheater remains in good condition; from its top I had a nice view of the valley. Apparently, this was where Paul of Tarsus preached over a 3-year period. Columns, whole or partial, and capitals and pediments seemed to be the easily identified ruins. As we moved along the path, remains of statures and friezes appeared. Besides popping new batteries, the SD chip filled, and I fortunately was prepared.
Our pathway was an amazingly preserved mosaic road. We passed temples, monuments, baths, houses and market areas. At one bath, we viewed the communal latrines that lined the room. (Apparently, the wealthier would have slaves come to sit and warm the stone before the master needed to do his business.] The 4-story tall entrance to the Celsus Library is magnificent.
At the end of the path, a covered stretch held shops offering all sorts of souvenirs. Out the gate, we met our driver who took us to the neighboring hill where we climbed to the remains of the basilica built over the burial place of the Apostle and Evangelist John. That tomb is now marked with a marble block platform with columns at each corner. Off in the distance is the İsa Bey Mosque / Selçuk İsabey Camii, and beyond is the remaining column of the Temple of Artemis.
On our way out of the site, we were greeted by a vendor selling local consumables – olive oil, olives, nuts. Not in the market, we got in the van and headed back to the port. I was on the ship by 3:30, and, after changing my shirt, headed up the top deck to relax with the crossword puzzle (which I got from the Observation Lounge, despite it being closed for an event) and drink water while doing emails.
At the solo gathering, a digital scavenger hunt sent most off scurrying around the ship. As a non-participant, Suazo deputized me to evaluate the submissions, awarding points for getting the correct photos on the multiple phones. For this I was awarded a NCL t-shirt. I opted to not join the group for dinner as I wasn’t hungry yet.
Returning to the room, I found a blue duck, which reminded me that I had several to label and hide. Taking my ducks to the solo lounge, I found the crew cleaning and stripping the service area – that’s why there were no cookies later. I snagged 3 cookies for later, putting them in the room with some ducks and then headed down to 7 and the main dining room.
Solo at the table, I had John again as my waiter. White cheddar and potato soup, Caesar salad, rigatoni primavera with pesto and chicken Madeira on risotto. I ordered a bottle of tempranillo, getting a Le Gracchio Chianti, which would appear at my next dinner. A scoop of chocolate ice cream left with me after dinner, to eat in the lounge with a cookie while I read until 10:30.
Day 78 NCL Viva 4 – Istanbul 1
With the Viva arriving in port at 1pm, I was up at 9 and made it into the dining room in 20 minutes, before they closed the door to late arrivals. Eggs rancheros and bacon with the fruit plate joined coffee and juice for my breakfast.
Sitting in the solo lounge at 11, I journaled and noted that I was going to pare down what I carried off the ship – one phone, the camera, my watch (no other extra jewelry), passport, a credit card and some euros. I used WhatsApp to communicate with Merve, my guide and swapped photos.
As we approached the Straits to lead us to the Galataport Cruise port, the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia were off to the west, each with four minarets bracketing the large central domes. I was up on the highest deck with an unobstructed view, getting skyline shots, zooming in on whatever caught my fancy.
By 12:50 we’d docked and were given the all clear, I headed down the stairs to pass through security and debark the ship. I headed out with the masses on a fairly long and convoluted walk through the terminal. Once outside, Merve was there in the throngs of guides looking for their parties. Easily finding me, we headed out to board the trolley.
The trolley was fairly crowded as we rode several stops over the Golden Horn to the Old Town. Our first stop was at the Topkapi Palace, its magnificent grounds lush and manicured. The tour path within the palace is established, and Merve and I weaved through larger groups, their guides shouting into the “whispers” unnecessarily, as we viewed the harem, eunuch’s quarters, and the shah/emperor quarters.
Besides the marvelous tiling, carvings and paintings on the walls, I remembered to look up at ceilings, and to observe the floors, when possible, as intricate designs abound. In the museum, the sacred relics and the gems of the treasury were on display. Much to see, difficult to remember the specifics, but an offline album can be viewed here.
An hour and a half later, we approached the Aya Irini, a church that was the predecessor to the Hagia Sophia, and one of two Constantinople churches which were
not turned into a mosque by the Ottomans. A large empty space, now without adornment, its shell is being renovated. It is not being used as a church. As it was the location of the patriarch’s seat while awaiting the completion of Hagia Sophia, it fits my definition of a pro-cathedral.
I must have been overwhelmed, as we walked towards the Hagia Sophia because I took no photos of the outside of the building from the grounds. Nearly an hour gap in my camera roll, the next shots are from inside the mosque, as we walked the gallery level. (The ground floor is reserved for prayer and visiting Muslims, with no “graven images” visible.)
Cordons kept visitors away from the railings which overlooked the deep turquoise blue carpeted lower floor. But the decorative art that covers the dome, the arches and walls is visible, albeit much is still being restored. A few mosaic icons survive on columns, as well as a Virgin and Child on the upper dome, covered by sheets so it is not viewed from the mosque floor.
Most impressive to me, beyond the sheer size of the building, were the carvings in the column’s capitals and on the upper walls, and the mosaics, frescos and murals that cover most surfaces. Plus, the awesome tile work. We left the mosque and crossed a plaza to join the queue to board the trolley back to the port. After boarding the ship, I checked with the solo group, and went to my cabin to freshen up. I had the understanding I was joining a group at Cagney’s at 6:30, but no one showed by 7, so I headed to the dining room for a solo dinner. Starting with Shanghai pork pot stickers and the Asian noodle salad, I kept the theme going with Asian-style fish; however, I had cannoli for dessert.
Some time over dinner I realized I hadn’t taken a photo of the Hagia Sophia on the phone for my Facebook posting, so I made a note to check the camera (which didn’t have an exterior shot either.) Plus, I apparently dropped the pinch-clip lens cover sometime during the day. Not my best day, but I did receive a tray of chocolate-dipped strawberries in my cabin on my return. There, I did some emails and collected a voice mail, which regarded a cruise booking I had for autumn.
Day 79 NCL Viva 5 – Istanbul 2
The phone alarm went off at 7:45, and I was down for breakfast in 20 minutes. I crossed the gangplank at 8:30 and wended my way through the terminal to meet Merve outside the gate. We had a driver and Mercedez van to get around, so we headed northeast along the western side of the Golden Horn first to the Balat neighborhood.
Our first objective was the Greek Orthodox cathedral, which was closed until the afternoon. We decided to move it to the end of the list, and continued to the St. Esprit Cathedral / Saint Esprit Katedrali, the Catholic seat. The central Holy Doors from the small plaza in front were open, with statues of the brother Apostles Peter and Andrew on either side. A medallion of Pope John XXIII is placed over the entry.
Inside a coffered ceiling tops the nave full of wooden pews and a central red carpet runner. Columns support the galleries over the side aisles which are lined with small side alters dedicated to saints represented by paintings. In the apse the altar table and high altar are central to the sanctuary, with a depiction of Pentecost higher in the arched setback.
Back to the car, we headed to an appointment at the Syriac Catholic Church of the Sacred Heart / Süryani Katolik Kilisesi, Syriac Patriarchal Exarchate of Türkiye. The Patriarchal Exarch, Monsignor Orhan Abdulahad Canli had graciously agreed with Merve to allow me to meet him and to view his church. Over tea, he explained that Sacred Heart isn’t actually a cathedral, but the head church of a pre-diocese.
He would still be considered a bishop, but with only one church, hasn’t a diocese. The multi-purpose building included the church, offices with meeting rooms, and school space. The church itself is a narrow space, a mosaic in blue tile representing the Sacred Heart behind the altar. A small dome depicts Christ and the twelve apostles, a circular skylight window of the Trinity at the center.
It was a darkened space which I felt privileged to visit. As we parted, Msgr Canli presented me with a copy of his oeuvre, The Syriac Catholic Church in Turkey. In a slipcase, it is a coffee table book of 312 pages, filled with photographs and history. Plus, he gave me his blessing.
Next on my list was the Greek Catholic cathedral, which follows the Chaldean rite, the Church of the Holy Trinity / Keldani Katolik Cemaati Merkezi. My outside picture is of a gold etching on the marble façade of a building, but I did take a number of pictures inside the church space of this Patriarchal Exarchate. Three ranks of wooden pews face a rood-like upper barrier demarking the sanctuary. A small baldachin stands over the altar.
The vault is broadly coffered, with murals depicting icons. After about 10 minutes, we left, walking through the commercial district as it would have been too difficult to call for the car.
Off to the next cathedral, we walked past the British Embassy before passing through a doorway on a narrow street into a wet courtyard. The Cathédrale arménienne Sainte Marie de Sakızağaç / St. Mary of Sakızağaç Armenian Cathedral / Sakızağaç Kutsal Meryem Ana Katedralı / Surp Asdvadzadzin Patriarchal Church Armenian Catholic Cathedral of St. Mary stood closed, with market umbrellas in the rain-filled yard. Women were pushing the water away, and we were told that, without permission from the priest, entry and photographs weren’t permitted. We left heading to the next on my list, but were called back (Merve had left her number) and not only were we granted access, they wanted copies of my pictures for their (future) website.
An open tall nave, clerestory lights line the curved vault, with cream-colored walls supported by dark brown half columns. Chandeliers hang at points over the center aisle. The sanctuary is traditional pre-Vatican II Western, with an altar rail, and carpeted stairs up to a rear-facing high altar. The cathedra sits on the left wall.
Between visits to the Armenian cathedral, we were passing the Church of St Anthony / Sant’Antonio Kilisesi, and Merve insisted I visit. Through tall iron gates at the street, the large red brick building has a large plaza in front. Inside, white marble Gothic columns rise to a curved vault. Warm lighting enriched by sunlight passes through the stained-glass, Mass was underway, so my pictures were limited.
Narrow streets, some with great street art murals on walls, took us from the present Armenian cathedral to the predecessor. Locked, and unable to contact the caretaker, the façade is in need of repair to resurface the exposed brick under missing plaster. Surp Yerrortutyun Katolik Ermeni Kilisesi / Surp Asdvadzadzin Ermeni Katolik Kilisesi was built in the 18th century, getting rebuilt after several fires. It served as the pro-cathedral for St Mary of Sakızağaç.
Practically 1pm, we returned by car to our starting point for the morning, and were able to visit the Venerable Patriarchal Church of Saint George / Aziz George Katedrali. Rectangular in footprint, the exterior façade is dull white stone with three stories of windows. Despite this, the interior is dark, and the central worship space of the nave is cordoned off. So while walking the edges, I could appreciate the splendor of the gold iconostasis, the regal patriarch’s throne, and the stenciled murals of the vault.
It was time for lunch, so Merve took me into Turgut, an open-air kebab restaurant in the Fatih neighborhood. Merve had a Turkish pepperoni pizza, while I chose spicy beef kebap with onions and beans, and an OJ and pomegranate juice beverage. Baklava and tea for dessert, it was a nice repast.
Afterwards, before we crossed the Bosphorus, we walked to the Iron Church through what I would call a bohemian neighborhood – full of art, color and humor.
The Bulgarian St. Stephen Church / Bulgarian Iron Church is an Orthodox church. Tall, white with gold embellishments, the church is one of few remaining examples of Austrian pre-fabricated cast iron churches in the world. The gilding continues inside, evidence of generous patrons.
Merve called the driver, and soon we were enroute to the Asian side of Istanbul. On the Bosphorus Bridge, below was the Büyük Mecidiye Mosque on the waterfront. We did a walkabout through the shopping district, which felt much less like the tourist throngs on the European side. We poked into shops, perused street stalls, ducked into a small church, sticking mainly to pedestrian paths.
Coming up on 3:30, Merve said goodbye, looking longingly at the Syriac church book I’d received. She had prepared well for my visit, and had been studying Christian practices. But we were near her home, so she called the driver who took me back to the port via the Avrasya Tunnel and dropped me at the port after passing under an aqueduct.
Once on board, I first dropped the book from the Monsignor, and then climbed to the top to do some Internet activity. It was time for the solo group, where I found out that I’d been a day early. So at 6:30 Pamela and I were in Cagney’s, where we both ordered lamb chops. I had started with crab cake, and finished with the apple pie.
Collecting the Nikon after dinner, I headed up top. I wanted to take a few pictures of the Hagia Sophia with the Nikon’s excellent zoom. After a bit, the sun began slipping behind the buildings on the crest of Istanbul, giving a fabulous lightworks display. As dusk settled, the minarets around the Hagia Sophia lit, looking like candles. Unseen in the daylight, between two LED lights acclaimed LA ILAHE ILLALLAH, which is usually translated as “No god is worthy of worship, except Allah.” There was a full moon, so I took some shots at it as well.
After chatting with Susan (from LA?), I headed to my room to use the ship’s WiFi to call and give the travel agent a new credit card for the “Leafpeeper” cruise. Then, as it had been an early start, I crashed.
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