A Week in Romania: part 1- Timișoara, Arad, Oradea
- KB Cook
- Nov 10
- 16 min read
Day 44 Timișoara
My daytrips.com driver Nenad had collected me in Belgrade and driven me to Vršac where I visited and photographed the last 2 Serbian cathedrals for this trip. Details in the previous blog posting. We departed Vršac heading east.
In fifteen minutes we arrived at the border with Romania. This crossing took no time at all, which greatly surprised me. Serbia had been relatively flat, while Romania had more rolling hills, as we continued an hour to Timișoara. My initial impression of the city is that it is ugly, with industrial sprawl and bland buildings in sad shape. When we arrived at my booked lodgings, the manager advised me that there were 4 children staying there, and she was going to upgrade me to a different hotel. Since Nenad had left, she loaded my gear and me into her car and we drove across town to the Pensiunea Elisei, 2 km away and further from the train station. She told me she would pick me up an hour before the train the next morning.
A corner room, #4 had a queen bed, a desk and chair, enough floor room to open my big suitcase. Functional with a rainfall showerhead as well as a handheld, the bathroom was fine. Briefly unpacking the small roller, I went out and twenty minutes later had walked into the Biserica Nașterea Maicii Domnului Iosefin / Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary. A huge church occupying half a trapezoidal block, it screamed cathedral to me.
While now a Romanian Orthodox church, the Google Translate of the sign out front reports it is a cathedral. Further research has this as a former cathedral, for the period 1939 to 1946 when it served that role. A bonus for my list!
Facing north northwest, stairs lead up to a portico under an elaborate gold-filled mosaic over three arches. Small curved turrets rise over towers at the four corners. A large lantern dome tops the central nave, where (unusual) wooden folding chairs fill the side wings.
White marble steps rise from the rug-covered nave floor to the arch-filling iconostasis. The Christ figure at the center of the dome is surrounded by standing representations of angels and saints. Walls and arches are covered with murals in a riot of color.
From a distance, I could see the highest tower, an olive-green with gold, poking through the trees. Heading that way, I crossed the Bega River as more and more of the building was revealed through buildings and trees. The "Three Holy Hierarchs" Metropolitan Cathedral / Catedrala Mitropolitană „Sfinții Trei Ierarhi” was inaugurated in October 1946. Horizontal stripes in red and yellow brick rise from the ground to the caps of the nine towers and domes. With the entry to the north northeast, I had to circle around from my walking through Cathedral Park.
A six-column portico provides coverage from the elements before crossing into the narthex. I found the interior to be narrow, especially proportional to its height. The nave space was dark, triggering my having to use the “Moon” feature of my Nikon. A gleaming gilded wall, the iconostasis, rose about 50-feet, the gold haloes of those depicted adding to the shine. Walls, ceiling and arches were all embellished with murals or geometric stenciling. I ached to find a way up to the loft over the narthex to shoot down into the space.
Taking a few more shots of the front of the cathedral, I began heading to the next on my list, passing Lupa Capitolina, a statue honoring the she-wolf and founders of Rome, which gives its name to the country. Fântâna cu Pești, a fountain with the theme of fish, was the next break in the surrounding buildings. The broad pedestrian promenade and park continue from the cathedral’s door to the white opera house.
Continuing my path, I came to the Sinagoga din Cetate, a large bi-colored brick-faced building, a Moorish-style building from the 1860s.
The dual baroque towers on the corners of the west-facing Serbian Orthodox Cathedral of the Ascension of Our Lord has a wrought iron and stone pillar fence at the sidewalk. Through the center arch, the building is separated from the neighboring buildings, rising about 4-stories.
Inside, the predominate colors are cream, with gold and slate blue on the vault, arches and walls. Under the first of three crystal chandeliers, a cordon prevented access to most of the nave and the bi-level iconostasis. The building had been closed, but I met the custodian as he was going in, and he permitted me to take a few pictures inside.
Out the door of Ascension Cathedral, I walked a half block to the corner, made a right and passed along the edge of the two-block long Union Square to reach Saint George’s Catholic Cathedral / Domul "Sfântul Gheorghe" which occupies the northeast block facing the square. Baroque façade 22m wide and 55m in length, the building has a cruciform footprint.
After moving around the square to find an optimal street-level view, I crossed and entered the wooden doors. A most pleasant surprise – the organist was rehearsing, and wasn’t aware of tourist like me roaming the nave floor.
Soft gray and slate, with brick touches, is used in the stenciling of the columns and vault. On either side of the high altar are statues of Theresa of Avila and Charles Borromeo, while the large painting behind the altar is of St George. Altars in the transept arms have depictions of the Crucifixion and the Last Supper.
When I finished my photo taking rounds, I found a seat and spent about a half hour listening to the organist test phrases of a work I felt was French, perhaps Charpentier or Widor.
An hour to walk back, I stopped at an ATM for cash, and window shopped where I could. I was left cold, finding Timișoara completely lacking charm. And everywhere there are smokers. There had been a time zone crossing coming into Romania, so sunset was later, and I was unsure of daybreak. I set the phone alarm for 6:45, knowing that I was pack (never opened the big bag) and breakfast could be quick. I headed out having checked with Google for eateries, walking a block to the Csíki Beer House on the corner. They had an English menu, and I ordered a “cheesy burger” to go with my unfiltered beer. I’d opted for outside, but away from others, as I journaled my day. My plate overflowed with thick, crispy potato wedges, and I wound up leaving half the brioche roll with a third of the fries.
Back in the room by half past eight, I did more Internet stuff and then read until it was lights out time.
Day 45 Arad
Blessing the alarm, I woke up after a decent sleep, showered, dressed and headed down for breakfast: yogurt, banana, coffee and juice. Not much else appealed. Back to the room, I got my bags down to the lobby to wait on the original hotel’s manager, who showed up as she promised. She explained that we were in their rush hours, as the schools were also about to start the day. Once at the train station, she dropped me by a construction zone
and I had to pull my gear across the roadway. The train was listed for track 8, which meant walking alongside the terminal and crossing rails to board a waiting train. However, I was too early, and the signs were wrong, so I had to wait on the platform for 15 minutes, waiting on the correct equipment. I noted that the day was overcast and gray, but not raining.
Unlike the express train, my train was only 2 carriages (class #1 was half of the other car) and an engine, and very empty. The train left on time at 8;30, but 10 minutes later we held for about 15 minutes, waiting to allow the express train to pass. Looking out the window, I noted that the fields were full of rape seed plants, while the verges had broom growing – practically the same shade of yellow.
Supposedly a 2-hour ride, it took a bit longer. I tried to buy a ticket for my ride the following day, but was told to buy it on the train. The walk to the Best Western Central Hotel was pretty much a direct route, but took more than the half hour Google predicted. I was in room 403 by noon.
After checking with Google Maps locally, the 2 cathedrals on my list suddenly grew to 4. That prompted me to start moving, and I headed out. The nearest was the “Red Church”, which is Evangelical Lutheran and half a kilometer from the hotel. On a major boulevard, the red brick façade trimmed in white rose 46m between evergreen trees. Nowhere could I find a confirming cathedral reference.
Continuing northward on Revolutionary Boulevard, I came to the Holy Trinity Cathedral, Arad / Catedrala Arhiepiscopală „Sfânta Treime”, which is the “new” Romanian Orthodox cathedral in Arad.
Situated prominently in the widened greensward of the boulevard, the white exterior is topped by two domed towers and a larger central dome, each in charcoal gray. An Impressionistic mural fills the huge arch over the entrance. Once inside, I found the nave and dome to be impressive, with lots of gilding. The iconostasis got a “wow”! An eight-pointed star surrounded the Christ figure in the center of the dome, featuring angels in a periwinkle blue. Interestingly, there is permanent seating in the balcony over the narthex and entrance.
Next on Google’s list would be back in the direction to the hotel and further, about a kilometer and a half and half an hour walk. I chose to walk back on the other side of the boulevard, getting more of feel for Arad. I also had Biserica Romano-Catolică „Sfântul Anton de Padova” as a church I wanted to visit, but knew it wasn’t a cathedral. The tall building is sandwiched between neighboring buildings, with pairs of round columns bracketing the entry, a dome overhead.
On the porch outside the door was a placard indicating that here was an ex-cathedral, having served the role 1902-1904, which is the period Wikipedia has it being built. The narthex was gated off, but the openings were sufficient for me to get some shots of the nave. I left convinced that there had not been a Catholic cathedral in Arad.
Leaving St Anthony’s, I went two blocks further and then headed right for three blocks of gradually reducing length. Turning left after a half block and I was at the (Romanian Orthodox) Cathedral of the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist / Catedrala „Nașterea Sf. Ioan Botezătorul”. Pale yellow with white trim, with twin towers at the western facing front façade, it opens to the Old Cathedral Square. The nave was dark, its tiled and carpeted floor empty.
Murals filled the vault, while the iconostasis rose two levels in front of the apse. More murals were placed above the wainscotting, but below windows filled with rectangles of colored glass.
Being only just after 2pm, I had accomplished my objectives. Curious, I decided to search for the local synagogue. I found it, but it was closed, sad, decaying. Heading back to the boulevard and strolling past more closed Orthodox churches, I continued to note interesting features of embellishment on many of the buildings.
One of my plans involved mailing a packet home to Florida. I found a post office, where I’m certain the clerk didn’t want to deal with the complexities of sending an international package off, so directed me to the post office by the train station. All I really wanted was a box and the forms.
Then it was back to the room, where I opened the window and sat back with my feet up. I had a text from my hotel for the following day, asking if I would be arriving soon. This led to the discovery I’d mis-booked by a day, and got it and the following day sorted. I was continuing to work on getting my currency wallet back, having arranged for a courier service to bring it from Sarajevo to Belgrade. I had decided I could use one of my days in Sofia to fly back to retrieve it, and let the hotel and courier service know.
The camera hadn’t been backed up in 2 days, so that was next to be sorted. Plus copying the few that were on the phones. With time and miserable weather, I did some hotel reviews from email prompts, and responded to an outfit trying to help me plan my 2 weeks in southeastern Australia for February 2026. Using the netbook and a keyboard was so much better than typing one finger on a phone.
When my stomach finally thought it was time to eat, I headed out, not really sure where or what to eat. Options on Google didn’t impress – I was hoping for Romanian cuisine without breaking the bank – but the district I was in was mostly fast food. I finally finished strolling and dropped into Lento Café and Bistro where I started with a quarter liter of Cuvee Rosuz (red wine) and then talked them into customizing a pizza diavolo: garlic, gorgonzola, pancetta, red pepper flakes. It came out with lots of crust, was gooey enough to require a fork and knife, but filling so I didn’t eat all the crusts. She talked me into getting gelato for dessert: the chocolate was fair, but the pistachio was awesome.
Back at the room I finished fully backing up my photos, getting them onto the second USB drive. After a few more emails, I settled back to read, after I set the alarm for 6:45am.
Day 46 Oradea
The mattress was like a rock, so when the alarm went off at 6:45, I was sore but glad to get up. Poor water pressure in the shower didn’t help, but the breakfast was okay. Back to the room to finish packing, hefted the bags down a half flight of stairs to the lift, and then out into the lobby, I asked the receptionist to call me a taxi. Twelve minutes of wait, and I was soon heading to the train station despite it being rush hour. The train was on track 3, and left on time at about half capacity. The taxi had been 30 lei, and the train fare 25 lei. Go figure.
The train was about 10 minutes late into Oradea, and the 10-minute walk to the Hotel Stadion mostly direct without my getting misdirected. I was able to get into room 11, again in the corner, equipped with 2 full beds, a desk, and a balcony.
The shower has an open wall for the space, a bidet, commode and sink, and a shelf for my items. I put the big roller on the second bed. After pulling out my camera, I headed downstairs and out into the gloomy overcast weather.
My list had 5 cathedrals in town, with the Catholic one being closest. The Cathedral Basilica of St. Mary / Catedrala romano-catolică Adormirea Maicii Domnului / Nagyváradi Nagyboldogasszony Székesegyház was another 10-minute walk. Approaching the square to the south of the entrance at noon, I walked along a wooded park that wrapped with a stone wall and trees inside all but the front.
A darker yellow, with slight white touches of white in the half columns, two black-topped towers stand at 45° to the rest of the building, similiar to the Cathedral Basilica in Newark, New Jersey. Out in front, a statue of St Ladislaus holds a sword and an axe, black as all the outsides of the windows of the cathedral.
The wide nave felt enormous, the curved vault rising about 40m, over gray stone pillars, a false gallery and clerestory. Its murals filling each of the arches were scenes of the Blessed Virgin’s life, in a field of robin’s egg blue. The side aisles were narrow, with columned openings creating chapel-like spaces, with painting on the walls above narrow altar ledges. Above the narthex, banks of ornate organ pipes filled the loft’s side walls.
Cruciform in footprint, the transepts cross before the sanctuary, a curved dome filled with murky pink and gray shadows has the Evangelists at the corners. On the nave floor, more organ pipes fill the southwest corner, opposite the elaborate baroque lectern. On the west arm, the chapel of the Sacred Heart held the Eucharist, a small prayer chapel. The apse and quire fill the north end, the main altar table at its entrance, while a traditional white marble high altar is against the rear wall, below a painting of the Assumption. A serious amount of dazzle, its Austro-Hungarian roots were on display
Leaving after 40 minutes, I headed out through the park, past the Episcopal Palace to the right. A tall but narrow church, two smaller towers and a central taller tower, all capped in black with gold crosses intrigued me. As it was open, I entered and found German instructions that this was the Monks’ Church, now a restored Catholic parish.
My notes mention “Old Catholic”, a splinter sect from the First Vatican Council, which called to mind their cathedral in Bonn, Germany and former cathedral in Newcastle, England. In any case, it has all the trappings of a “normal” Catholic church, other than an apparent bishop’s cathedra near the altar. No amount of researched advanced my knowledge.
Passing through the central commercial/business district, I noted the Bank of Transylvania, and kept an eye out for vampires. A number of the corner buildings were painted in pastels, nicely ornamented. After crossing the river, Crişul Repede, I arrived at the Greek-Catholic Romanian St. Nicholas Cathedral / Catedrala Sfântul Nicolae. With an exterior painted in a faded orange, with pale orange columns and trim, the single black-capped tower rises over the entrance at the western end.
The nave’s cruciform axis runs parallel to the very busy Strada Iuliu Maniu to its south, but the entry is too close to the high school next door to allow for a front photograph.
Inside, pews filled the nave floor, but most of the baroque ornamentation resembled an Orthodox church, other than the presence of Stations of the Cross. Icons and similar murals filled the walls and the curved vault. While there is still a cathedra, Wikipedia reports it lost cathedral status in 1948 and is now a parish church.
Leaving, turning east on the street, I crossed the access street to the Piata Unirii and was facing the ex-Cathedral of the Dormition of the Mother of God, referred to as the Moon Church. An orb is visible at the base of the single central tower, depicting the phase of the moon. This Romanian Orthodox church served as a cathedral from 1920 until 2012, when the new cathedral was consecrated.
With a statue of Bishop Roman Clorogariu in front of the pink-tan façade, it is roughly the size of its neighbor St Nicholas. However, it is situated for better photos if I waited out the traffic. From the end of eighteenth century, it is late Austrian Baroque in style.
Interestingly, when I got inside the nave, the floor was filled with pews of teal cushioned armchairs. The four walls bore murals of full-sized representations of incidents in Christ’s life, golden halos prominent. The iconostasis is capped over two levels, the traditional 7 panels below a dozen ovals with scenes of Mary’s life and more paintings in gilded frames in the cap.
Continuing to walk easterly, the large urban central park First of December, with the House of Culture at one end, took up several blocks. At its end was the Catedrala Episcopală Învierea Domnului / Episcopal Cathedral of the Resurrection of the Lord. This is the new cathedral for the Romanian Orthodox in Oradea.
Construction is apparently complete, as the building has a large black stone paved plaza surrounding it. White with light plum and black trim, the building stands tall, accented by a pair of lantern towers at the western end, and a larger one at the center. The mosaic over the door depicts the resurrected Christ.
Seemingly larger than how the exterior looks, the red carpeted floor has individual cushioned chairs orderly lined up on either side of a wide aisle. The walls of the nave, dome and narthex are unfinished, while the apse and iconostasis have been completed.
As it was only 3, I decided to find the synagogue. I hadn't been able to find my fifth target, Biserica Sfântul Ladislau- a former cathedral. The Orthodox Synagogue was bult in 1890 with Moorish architectural influences. It sits behind a wrought iron fence, but the gate was open and I found an open door. A tour was underway, so I quietly snapped my pictures. The Moorish stenciling covered most of the surfaces, including the stunning ceiling. The color scheme was earthy, muted colors, except the apse in a deep royal blue with white columns.
Leaving, I needed a loo, so popped into a bar for a beer. And then the memory card in the Nikon reported it was full, and the new SD chip was back in my room at the hotel. I roamed a bit, getting a few shots with the phone. Buildings’ exterior ornamentations seemed to have caught my eye.
While strolling down a pedestrian thoroughfare, I spotted a barbershop, and, at about 7 weeks single my last haircut, I went in an got the sides cleaned up. I realized that it was much cooler without the protection of my shaggy hair. With two women and a man cutting, one woman finished her client and took me into her chair. (The guy was doing a real performance as he gave an 8yo boy his cut.) Unsure of what I needed, she left the top alone and trimmed the sides to 3mm. Cost was 50 lei, tipped 20 more, and it was less than 20 bucks.
After popping in a mall to get a t-shirt and socks, I hit Carrefour for some chocolate bars. Back at the room I replaced the SD chip, backed up the photos after I deleted all the photos from the first cruise. A bit after 7 I headed out, landing in Picco Pollo (low end neighborhood pizza place) where I had red house wine and a two-salami pizza, with added garlic and gorgonzola. It was adequate, with not enough gorgonzola or protein. The garlic was in the small bowl, filled with a sweet garlic sauce. The restaurant had emptied out, with the cigarette smoke lingering. Dinner came to 53 lei, or $13. Not too shabby.
The transportation for the next day would be a private driver with daytrip.com, The driver called me and we discussed the route, His main question had to do with the stop in Gheria, at the Armenian-Catholic Cathedral. I was going to Cluj-Napoca, and public transit was near impossible to get there. Reviewing my list, I realized that I’d missed the local Catholic ex-cathedral, St Ladislaus. It is near the present cathedral, but behind school walls and buildings. Still 4 was good.
Back in the room, I was hoping for two things: a soft bed, and warmer, dry weather. The driver was due at 9, so I was able to plan for the included breakfast at 8 when setting the alarm for 7:30. I read a bit and the boys upstairs turned off their Arabic music, and I went to sleep.
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