A relaxing Greek week with cousins
- KB Cook
- Dec 27, 2025
- 8 min read
Day 85 Loggos 1
I'd debarked from the NCL Viva in the Piraeus port and taken a taxi to the bus terminal in Athens, as reported in the previous blog. Continuing from arriving at the KTEL terminal:
At the ticket counter I was able to straighten out my arrangements, getting it adjusted to ensure I went as far as I needed. After putting my bags underneath, I boarded and went to my assigned seat. My seatmate was a large Greek man, who made no effort to accommodate for his overflowing style, making the trip uncomfortable. He exited about a half hour before my stop.
While in the station I’d spoke with Kleon, my cousin’s Greek husband, with whom I’d be staying. We figured out where I should leave the bus in Agios Konstantinos, and it would be about 20 minutes north of his town. Watching our progress on Maps, I spotted the earlier stop where I might alight outside Loggos, and had the bus driver drop me there. A call to Kleon and he was there in 5 minutes – I’d saved him the run into the bigger town.
Kleon, also known as Stephen, and his brother Dimitri own a lovely home on a big plot of land across the road from the beach and the Malian Gulf (an arm of the Aegean Sea) in the area call Fthiotis. I’d arrived before the big meal of the day, so we three men sat under an awning in the shade and enjoyed a splendid meal prepared by the housekeeper, Bruna. A nap followed, and then we convened for a chat as the day was settling down. Into the car, we drove through Agios Konstantinos to Kamena for supper. With the setting sun, we drove the main street along the waterfront, perusing dining options, reaching the end of town and returning to a pleasant beachfront café for “toasts” – toasted cheese sandwiches – and a bottle of beer. Back to the house, we talked a bit and then headed to sleep.
Day 86 Loggos 2
Sleeping in until 9, I joined Dimitri and Bruna for a light breakfast of coffee and fruit. Kleon joined us and was tasked with creating a shopping list. Once we were all “bright eyed”, we got into the car and headed to Kamena where our first stop was the fish monger. We ordered from the catch of the day, which would be cleaned for our return home. The next stop was the bakery, where I got baklava (for my breakfasts – I like my sweets in the morning) and they got bread. A stop at the pharmacy accomplished getting me enough of my prescription to tie me over until my departure – I’d not checked my count before leaving the States.
Our next stop was the minimarket, for fruit and vegetables, followed by the supermarket where Kleon got meat and I got some chocolate bars. Returning to our first stop, we collected the fish and returned to Loggos. Dimitrious and I headed across the lawn for a swim. About 2 we four settled down for the big meal of fish, salad, squash, boar stew and beer. Afterwards, I read on the patio while D took a nap and watching old movies, and Kleon headed into his office to remotely assist with the San Francisco Greek Film Festival, which he’d managed for many years.
The weather was perfect with temperatures in the 80’s (°F), soft breeze, mild humidity. When I’d arrived, I’d also been introduced to the semi-feral cats that the men had adopted. A mother cat was very thin, and one surviving male kitten (the others had probably been a bite for the wild animals) provided entertainment. About 4 I took the Nikon to the beach and got a few shots. Later I tried for a few setting sun pictures.
As the sun was setting, we men sat about for a chat, and by 9:30 we were ready for supper. Into the car, we headed to Agios Konstantinos. A light meal, the table filled with the staple Greek salad, tzatziki, calamari, zucchini patties, sardines and beer.
Day 87 Loggos 3
After breakfast of coffee and baklava, the cars needed to be smogged, so Kleon dropped me a few towns away in Arkitsa to explore on foot. Part of my planning had been a desire to take the ferry to the nearby island of Skiathos as the Cathedral of the Three Hierarchs / Μητροπολιτικός Ναός Τριών Ιεραρχών is there. As I found out, the ferry was still on the winter schedule, running only once weekly at the weekend, which didn’t work for this trip.
In Arkitsa Port I walked the beachfront road to its end at a lighthouse. From the pier, I observed the local ferry which crossed the inlet to Aidipsos (not venturing out to sea.) I had been checking out the few open local cafés thinking about a frappé when Kleon returned. We drove up to Agios K to the KTEL station, where the agent there kindly comped me the early leg of my ticket for the ride to Thessaloniki at the end of my stay with the brothers.
Back to the house, D had completed his task with the second car, and we sat down for our midday meal of lamb chops, yellow and sweet potatoes, salad, zucchini and feta. Melon was served for dessert. Both Greek men crashed, while I went for a swim and then tackled my Internet tasks.
Still accumulating stuff, and needing to rid myself of my heavy jacket, and to ship the Syrian Church boxed coffee table book, I’d proposed sending another package onward to my Florida home. While they napped, I began separating what I needed from what I could send off. Kleon found me a box when he got up, and I began packing. Together we trimmed and taped it up before returning to the patio to relax, chat and enjoy the end of daylight.
Our evening repast was at the “O Paris” grill and tavern back in Arkitsa port, where I’d spent the morning. I ordered kebab, while the table soon had deep fried sardines, shrimp in red sauce, Greek salad, tzatziki, bread and beer.
Day 88 Loggos 4
Thursday was a quiet day. Workers were onsite off and on all day, so we never got into town to mail the package. However, we did venture out around 11 to Domaine Hatzimichalis, a winery in the hills outside Atalanti. Elegant grounds, we started with the obligatory tour, which actually included a family chapel with lovely icon murals. In addition to vineyards and the wine making and storage facilities, the grounds are also well established for hosting activities such as receptions. I got to check out several varietals I didn’t know: schiopettino, negro amaro and grechetto. I even got a picture of me standing in the barrel room!
In the tasting room we tried alfega (blend of malagousia and robola) and malagousia (whites), an alfega rosé (grenache, syrah and malagousia); three reds: Schiopettino Limnio, a proprietary red blend, syrah and aglianico. After which we returned to the house for midday dinner of pork flank. I made no other notes other than we drove into Loggos for supper of toasts.
Day 89 Loggos 5
Finishing my stash of baklava with my breakfast coffee, the local priest dropped by to speak (in Greek) to D and K for about an hour. D took off once the priest left on a grocery run, while K and I headed to Atalanti. He needed to get a booster for the wifi which would improve his phone usage, while I had my twenty-pound parcel to ship (at the most expensive rate.) After accomplishing these, we walked about in town, stopping first at the Church of Saint Theodoros, which stood up a rise from a large plaza.
Around the corner was what I felt was the true gem of the town: Chaïmathanasēs. Per the placard posted out front, it was formerly a Roman burial crypt, which was later converted into an underground church dedicate to Saint Athanasios. Descending narrow stairs, the dark space has niches inset into the walls of red brick, some with small devotional shrines left by petitioners.
From Atalanti we headed to the coast and Skala, where I got out to take a picture of a memorial based on a large anchor, and views of the beach.
Back at the house, dinner was chicken and rice, the rest of the squash, the rest of the fava beans, salad and green vegetables. While my hosts napped, I sat on the patio, rocking with the cats while I did emails. At suppertime we headed to a family tavern called The Village in Loggos. For starters, the plate included Greek salad, macaroni salad, and zucchini. Our mains were huge, two grilled steaks with French fries, and chicken skewers with more fries.
Day 90 Loggos 6
After rising later than usual at 9:30, breakfast was a banana, toast with jam and coffee. I took a walk on the beach across the road, snapping a few pictures with the phone. Lunch was grilled fish on the barbecue.
Afterwards, I finished packing the big roller, pleased that it had plenty of space. It was a bit too breezy to go for a swim, besides I needed the suit to be dry. For supper we visited Dimos in Agios K where I had chicken skewers with fries.
Day 91 Thessaloniki (4)
Having set my phone alarm for 7, I was up ahead of it, and finished my ablutions and dressing. With my packed luggage, I rolled to the patio and greeted D where we had coffee before Kleon pulled the car around to load my gear. We 3 were in Agios Konstantinos at 8:10, and the bus arrived a quarter hour later to accept my luggage and me. As it was a Saturday, the Olympian Ferries I wanted to take was in port, loading for Skiathos.
The ride to Lamia was quick, and the next bus was on time, arriving an hour later. Off to Thessaloniki, we passed through a number of tunnels. On arriving to the northern city, I found I’d booked lodgings a bit away from the bus terminal, but still not downtown. Unsure of the neighborhood, I took a taxi to the White Lotus B&B, and checked into room 21 from a series of keypads. My notes indicate I felt it was a decent space.
After settling in, I grabbed my Nikon, both phones, and my reader and headed into town. After about an hour’s walk, I was across from the Alcazar mosque, surrounded by scaffolding for its restoration. I found the restaurant Ouzo ston Pinaka where I would meet an author whose work I read. Quite early, I decided to have appetizers, ordering battered cheese (feta, with thyme honey and sesame seeds) and crispy zucchini sticks with tzatziki. I sipped on a draft beer and read as I was 90 minutes to wait. Rhys and his husband arrived, and while they had supper, I ordered soutzoukakis in yogurt, which was yummy.
Returning to White Lotus by taxi, I got to the room and tried to book an Uber for the morning, as I was about midway between the two bus terminals. That didn’t happen, as bookings were being taken two days or more out. I did a bit of journaling and it was lights out.
Day 92 Leaving Greece
Awakening to the alarm at 7, I was out the door by 7:30 and into an Uber, heading for the bus terminal. I bought my ticket for Gevgelija, and then learned I needed to be at the other bus station in Thessaloniki, thus requiring another taxi ride. Still, I made it to the 8:30 Simeonidis Tours bus – a “light load” per my notes. We spent 15 minutes clearing Greek security and 10 more on the Northern Macedonia side. We made a 15-minute break for the rest rooms and coffee, and arrived on time just after 10 in Gevgelija. Google had indicated buses onward at 10 and 11, but the next one to Strumica was at 2:30pm.
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