NCL Dawn: Adriatic ports, part 2

KB Cook
Sep 6
8 min read

Day 29 Split

NCL projected a 10-hour visit starting at 7am, and I had booked an excursion “Šibenik, Trogir & Split” to use 7½ hours of that. To start at 7:15, I was up an hour earlier, and in the theater in 40 minutes. We were a very large group, proceeding to the gangway at 7:20, out into two coach buses with about 40 participants each. Our guide was Doris. We set off 80km up coast to Šibenik, arriving at 8:30. Our trip northwest paralleled the beautiful rugged Dalmatian Mountains that include the Croatian border with Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Pulling into the bus terminal, we unloaded and had to wait for those needing a restroom, before Doris began a guided tour of the seaport. Enclosed, with a narrow passage out to the Adriatic Sea, the calm waters of the harbor reflected both the nearby vessels in the marina and the wooded land across Šibenik Bay. Heading inland from the water, we passed numerous churches, parks, monuments.

Tourist-friendly, maps were posted on several buildings, and signs were in English. There were many narrow side alleys and streets begging for exploration. Our walk took us to the square in front of St. Jacob’s Cathedral / Katedrala sv. Jakova just as the 9am Easter Sunday Mass commenced. With a single shot down the center aisle, the white stone-faced building faced almost true north! The exterior roofing was curved, sheets of lead, and the lanterned dome at the crossing proved to be the landmark I’d seen from our starting point.

South facade view of St. Jacob’s Cathedral / Katedrala sv. Jakova , Sibenik, Croatia — *St. Jacob’s Cathedral / Katedrala sv. Jakova* Sibenik, Croatia

We returned along the waterfront, boarding the buses after a ninety-minute visit. Trogir is close to Split, so our route took us through a verdant valley, wind turbines perched on the hilltops to the southwest. Reaching the western end of the (Bay or) Gulf of Kaštela, we discovered that the town was comprised of a bustling city on the mainland, across a channel on the large island of Otok Čiovo, and a small island in the channel.

Crossing to that smaller island, Grad Trogir, we entered into a UNESCO World Heritage site full of history. Doris led us past a small marina, through an arched gate to Saint Lawrence's Cathedral / Katedrala sv. Lovre, one of the significant landmarks in Trogir. With a stunning square, peaked belltower which rose high over the surrounding buildings, finding the right angle with a plaza full of café plaza umbrellas was my challenge. Further, Easter Mass was underway, and I couldn’t get near the entry door.

South facade, Saint Lawrence's Cathedral / Katedrala sv. Lovre, Trogir, Croatia — Saint Lawrence's Cathedral / Katedrala sv. Lovre, Trogir, Croatia

Our tour took us to multiple sites within the city, featuring a mix of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture. I found the city to be very clean, historic yet still modern, a vibrant, living city. After seeing a memorial to fallen Croatian soldiers, we returned to the bus and headed towards Split, about 15 miles away.

"He is Risen!" Trogir Cathedral bells after Masw concludes

Getting off the bus, we made a short walk to Chops grill, a steak and seafood restaurant. Our meal consisted of a creamy soup, chicken with potatoes, pannacotta with choices of Gentile white or Grabovac red wines.

After lunch, we walked into town, with Doris pointing out features and relating historic tidbits. Many narrow stone streets caught my camera as we passed under several stone arches between buildings.

Doris had a goal, and we soon reached the remains of Diocletian’s Palace, built in 305 CE when he left Rome. Much of the palace remains, with further archeological work underway. What I found most interesting is that his octagonal mausoleum was converted into the Cathedral of St. Dominus / Katedrala sv. Dujma. An eight-story belltower, a stunning piece of twelfth century Romanesque architecture, is actually dedicated to St Dominus, while the cathedral is to the Virgin Mary. Per Wikipedia, it is the second oldest structure used by any Christian Cathedral worldwide.

Facade of belltower, Cathedral of St. Dominus / Katedrala sv. Dujma, Split, Croatia — *Cathedral of St. Dominus / Katedrala sv. Dujma* Split, Croatia

The cathedral’s iron front gates were closed, and similarly, the nearby Baptistry was behind locked doors. I did prowl a bit, observing excavations of ruins, old mosaic tiling, A walk through Diocletian’s cellars brought us out to the port. After a discourse over a model of the city on the boardwalk, we were directed back towards the ship.

The bus had departed, so we had to hoof it back, with the time being 2:30pm. On the ship, I dropped my gear, grabbed my journal and the remains of the previous night’s whiskey, and headed topside.

Relaxing in the shade, I briefly noted sparse elements of the tour (which is why I’ve been so vague) after I finished the drink and puzzle. I ended my note reflecting that NCL should have selected Easter Sunday as a sea day, as so many shops and venues had been closed throughout the three-city tour. At 5:30 the Solos gathered on 9, and as we left for dinner, Michael, Sheila and I stopped at O’Sheehan’s to gather some liquid fuel. We were two tables of 6 in the MDR, and they offered a special Easter menu.

The Sweet corn parfait intrigued, which I followed with a Garden spring lettuce mix salad. Always a sucker for lamb, my main was the Garlic and herb-roasted leg of lamb – I guess I take after my maternal grandfather on that. The Warm chocolate volcano was, unfortunately, too cool to be special.

With Seth and Joe, we walked the promenade down to the door bringing us to Customer Services, where we checked our balances. I was in the positive, collecting $10 cash and was sent off to the shops to spend $82 in non-refundable credit. Two bottles of Glenmorangie whisky were to be collected the following evening, leaving a few dollars in the till. I headed back to the cabin to backup my photos, getting it half done (no secondary backup). After setting my alarm for 8:15, I started reading but crashed.

Day 30 – Koper

With about 11 miles between the Croatian and Italian borders with Slovenia, Koper is the major port. We were due to arrive by 9 for 8 hours, and I had an excursion “Best of Piran” due to start at 10, running 4½ hours. I’d driven from Ljubljana during my trip in 2017, to visit the cathedral, so decided to just be a tourist and head down the coast towards the Croatian border, and Piran on its peninsula.

Breakfast started with the fruit plate, followed by a last opportunity for Shashuka, my favorite preparation of eggs for breakfast. Unusual, service was very slow, and I never got my juice. I returned to my cabin for my camera and pack, and headed to the theater. A large group of about 50, we were the last to be called. After boarding, it turned out that 8 were getting off a bit south of Piran’s coast at Portorož to get on bicycles. We then continued the 20km ride into Piran, with our guide Natasha, who had discoursed the entire ride.

As she led us from the port to the plaza, she continued to regale us with facts. After a talk in the Tartini Plaza, we began a hike up towards the Walls of Piran, the old fortifications. Narrow curving streets, there were constant reminders that this had been a Venetian Republic port, as there were many St Mark lions about. After the promenade and panorama view point, still on foot, we headed downhill to the northern coast of the point.

First, we stopped at the Krstilnica sv.Janeza Krstnika, a white octagonal building with a taupe stone clock tower alongside. Then along the coast to the larger Church of St George. Inside the nave, the folded chairs, evident for the Easter overflow of non-regular parishioners, were still in rows behind the pews.

We must have been given some free time, as I have lots of pictures of alleys, shops, cul-de-sacs that filled the time until noon. My notes say we boarded the bus, rode a short distance to a village near the Croatian border where we passed vineyards and through small towns.

Montage of six pictures displaying the offerings at the open air market in Padna, Slovenia — Some of the merchant offerings in Padna

Padna has a Tourist Information Center where bicycles can be rented, and local produce can be sampled in an open-air market. Set on a slight hilltop, we were advised to purchase coupons which were the tender for the merchants. On display were samples of red and white wines, wild asparagus lasagna, apple strudel, strawberry tart, cheeses, salami, prosciutto. Tables were available for the group to sit while consuming their treats.

Back on the bus, we returned to Portorož to collect the cyclists, and then headed to Koper. Those of us who requested it were dropped in town. I proceeded to the Titov trg (Titov Square) and the Stolna cerkev Marijinega vnebovzetja, Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary.

Exterior facade of Stolna cerkev Marijinega vnebovzetja, Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Koper, Slovenia — *Stolna cerkev Marijinega vnebovzetja, Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary* Koper, Slovenia

Facing west, the partial overcast lent to softer shadows than my 2017 photo, but the plain façade of the church and bell- and clock-tower really weren’t much of an improvement. I took three times as many inside photos, and didn’t climb the tower this time.

My pictures contain many more details, including the framed paintings on the walls and the brilliant craftmanship of the choir stalls in the apse. My final shot before returning to the ship was of a park, white and yellow tulips in bloom and a circular pavilion supporting multiple blooming wisteria.

Back on board about 3pm, the Solos gathered at 5:30 for the final time this cruise. Fourteen of us, including John our NCL host, shared their email addresses, which many captured with their phones. The group headed to the dining room, but I had a reservation at La Cucina, as did Sheila, Michael and Jeannette. I asked John to join us, so the 5 of us settled in for Italian cuisine. My choices were the spaghetti carbonara, the osso bucco alla Milanese, accompanied by glasses of Chianti (sangiovese). Cheesecake, offered as Torta di ricotta con crema al limone, along with a pour of port capped my meal.

Heading down to the shop, I collected the whiskey, which, with cheese and bags of snacks, would go to John for the crew to enjoy. I finished packing up my large roll-on, getting it out the door by 10. A final stop at O’Sheehan’s for a nightcap, I headed back to my cabin. Setting my alarm for 8, my debark time was 8:45, but I would have plenty of time to get to the bus station, as my transit wasn’t until 12:30.

Day 31 Rijeka (22 April)

Announcements began at 7am, but I didn’t rise until shortly before 8, and was in a lounge area waiting on my color to be called by 8:40. Jumping the gun a bit, I was clearing NCL Jade’s ship security as gray got its clearance. Wending my way down gangways, I arrived in the large luggage hall and eventually found the large roller. By 9:10, I was walking out to the sidewalk.

Making a slow stroll along the waterfront, I reached the bus terminal a good two hours plus before my transport. There is no seating, and barely a waiting area at the station in Trieste. So I crossed the street to the train station, finding a seat there and sitting for about 2 hours. While there I ran into Jeannette, who was checking on her train to Verona on Thursday. Then I met and spoke with couples from Hong Kong and Pleasanton (my old hometown) who were on their way to Venice.

Returning to the bus station, I saw Willie, our Deutscher, as he boarded the bus for Munich. My bus arrived and I queued to put my gear underneath. Boarding the fairly full bus, my reserved seat had a dude in it, and I had to ask him to move. As we rolled out of the Italian city, down a valley in Slovenia and onto the coast in Istria, which is northern Croatia, I noted that the countryside reminded me of Western Connecticut during a dry summer.