NCL Dawn: Italian ports
- KB Cook
- Aug 28
- 22 min read
Day 19: Boarding the NCL Dawn
Despite pushing water to deal with my hydration, I had muscle cramps in my right leg, interrupting my sleep. When I arose, I finished packing, had a breakfast of a banana, coffee and a croissant. After checking out, with Kevin, Diana and the SF guy, we all rolled our luggage through town to the cruise connection plaza, Largo della Pace, in Civitavecchia. Getting to the correct queue, we dropped our luggage and boarded a bus to the actual port and ship. There we passed through security, got our room cards and boarded the NCL Dawn, all before 11am!
With little else to do, I found my muster station to get that requirement off my to do list. Grabbing my camera after dropping the roll-on, I began exploring the ship, getting pictures of lounges, shops, bars, the atriums, restaurants and the casino before going out to the promenade deck and getting shots of the port. (Ship photo here.)
Breaking a pattern (I usually have my first meal aboard at O’Sheehan’s,) I went to the Main Dining Room (MDR) for lunch with a pair of solos I’d encountered. Tomato soup, wedge salad, risotto al pesto with vegetables.
Our trio lingered over our table as the conversations rolled on. Returning to the Bliss Lounge to collect my small roller, I headed to my cabin, #5535, where I unpacked my toiletry kit.
At 4 (1600 hours), the Meet&Greet Sail Away party began topside, so I grabbed my journal and a pen and found a surface to journal my first impressions. Loud and noisy, folks were drinking and relaxing, with lots of smiles all around. Slipping around a corner, I used the mobile service to clear my emails. The ship began to move in reverse, as it backed around to prepare to leave the shelter of the harbor. As we cleared the breakwater, I headed back to my cabin to see if the big roller had been delivered.
It had, so I unpacked it, then grabbing a glass of wine from a bar I headed up to the Bliss Lounge for the first Solos meeting. With about 50 attending, I joined a group for dinner, sitting a a table for 6 with Sheila (Washington State), Don, Seth (Colorado), Alberta and one more male. French onion soup to start, spare ribs as a main and lemon sorbet for dessert. I’d gotten glasses of sangiovese and tempranillo, which, as bar wines, I found more quaffable than the usual cabernet or merlot.
A bunch of us headed to O’Sheehan’s for an after-dinner drink, me searching for Jameson Stout. O’Sheehan’s was the only bar aboard with it available, so I made a point of passing through for much of the rest of the voyage. (Regular Jameson was everywhere.) I spoke “with a Glaswegian” while the Masters was being shown on the displays. I headed off to the cabin, setting my alarm for 7am as I was meeting a driver for a private tour in the morning.
Day 20 Livorno
Sleep was fair, as I’d not found my alcohol-to-water intake levels yet. I was still up ten minutes ahead of the alarm, out and up to get a crossword puzzle only to find they still had the prior day’s. I passed through the buffet looking for a muffin to snag and bring with me, without success. I needed to return to my cabin to fetch my camera, still fighting with the lock on the door.
Leaving the ship at 7:45, I was ahead of the excursion tour groups. Passing through the “terminal” and passing duty free, I exited and found Nick there with a sign with my name. Crossing the parking lot, we entered his Mercedez and were soon underway.
Well prior to my setting off on the trip, I’d worked with Elisa, my Italian concierge, to find my drivers for several ports so that I could visit additional cathedrals that I’d not yet photographed. This was the third time she had found me a driver for a port stop in Livorno, and there were 3 nearby cathedral towns still to explore.
First on the itinerary was Pietrasanta. This involved following the coast to the north, towards Massa and the Cinque Terra. Nick parked near to the cathedral, but I had about a half kilometer walk to reach the piazza that fronts it. On my way I encountered a larger-than-life-sized sculpture that is very reminiscent of my favorite Rodin sculpture, the Burghers of Calais.
Not quite 9am, a square red brick bell tower stands separate from the white stone Cathedral of San Martino. I had to wait for a dude on a phone call, speaking in North American English, to move from pacing in front to get my picture. After 5 minutes, I headed inside, hoping he’d be gone as I left.
The nave has three aisles, but the side aisles end at the sanctuary, which has a curved apse at the southeast end. (The three entry doors face northwest.) A copper dome sits over the entry to the sanctuary. Floor tiles were a checkerboard pattern, the columns a grey-and-white marble. The vault, lit by clerestory windows, was net-covered, distorting the view of the plasterwork and frescoed ceiling.
The dome’s interior is magnificent, with frescoes and tromp l’oeil surrounding a lantern. Grand paintings fill marble frames over the multiple side altars. I was impressed! Mass was being offered in a side chapel, allowing me nearly full access, but I didn’t find the bishop’s throne.
Stepping outside, my distraction was gone, so I was able to maneuver around, cussing the white panel truck parked alongside the building. Satisfied, I began heading back to the car, snapping a few shots.
Once back with Nick, we set out for Pistoia, heading inland and skirting Lucca (a favorite city of mine).on a 80km ride. As we passed near Collodi, he related that it was the town where the story of Pinocchio originated. By 10:30 I was standing in the large Piazza del Duomo, trying to find the best angle to include both the Cattedrale di San Zeno and its Baptistry.
A tall imposing campanile sits at the north corner of the west-facing entrance, with the striped octagonal baptistry across a smaller piazza extension. The cathedral is long, with a deep nave with nine columns supporting the interior walls of the clerestory and a wood timber peaked vault. The sanctuary floor is raised, over a crypt, framed by a large arch. The crypt walls are lined with memorials to past bishops, with wooden pews filling only the center aisle. Its simplicity contrasts with the nave and apse above.
Impressed by the old frescos, the newer paintings and the carvings, I left to cross to Battistero di San Giovanni in Corte. Smaller than the one in Florence, the façade has similar horizontal stripes crowned with a false columned gallery. But, unfortunately, closed that day.
Forty-five minutes later under a brilliantly clear midday sun, I was in Prato, standing in the P-shaped piazza and viewing the Basilica Cattedrale di San. Stefano. Facing west, with a 10-story tall campanile situated on its southeast corner alongside the narrow Piazza del Duomo extension, the front façade has black-and-white horizontal stripes rising above the sole entry door.
Narrower than the two cathedrals I’d already visited, the arches supported by black columns are also striped. The flooring is a mosaic of golden hexagonal and dark red diamond marble tiles. Again, stairs led into the crypt below the sanctuary and apse. As I climbed stairs, I was told I needed a ticket to see the Fra Lippi murals. After securing admissions, I checked with Nick to let him know I’d be longer this cathedral. There is a lovely extensive museum as part of this church in addition to the chapels containing the murals on the ceiling and walls. After twenty minutes I returned to the nave and raised sanctuary.
After 15 more minutes, the SD chip in the camera was full; fortunately, I was finished inside the building. Leaving, I swapped for a fresh card, returned to Nick and the car, and we headed to Wallace, a café across the street for slices of pre-made pizza. My two squares with pepperoni, thin crust, were uninspired, while Nick had a single thick slice margherita which he was pleased with. Returning to the car, I asked to stop for a picture of a particular storefront – the name of which I found amusing.
Two hours later we approached Livorno. Nick was keen on my visiting a particular church: Chiesa di Santa Caterina, an octagonal building constructed in the early eighteenth century. When I had walked in, the rustic, raw stone and mortar, was reminiscent of the exterior of the cathedral in Perugia; I was unprepared to be overwhelmed.
Topped with a large dome over lantern windows, the tromp l’oeil illustrations in the dome and around the nave are stunning, truly three-dimensional looking. Altars were on most of the facets (except for the entries) with large oil painting hanging above each, set back as separate chapels. Very soon thereafter, I was bidding farewell to Nick and boarding the ship.
After dropping my seriously unneeded jacket (the weather was superb) in my cabin, I climbed to deck 15 where, a club soda with bitters in hand, I completed the crossword puzzle for the day and began pushing through my Internet tasks.
With sail-away at 6:30 and Solos at 5:30, I headed down to Bliss, snapping a picture down the center atrium on my way. With the ten who showed up, we were prompted to write on a slip of paper something we were proud of – I wrote Cathedrals to the Glory of God.
Seven of us went to dinner at Aqua, where I started with New England clam chowder and a cobb salad, followed by the bluefish main. Glasses of sangiovese and tempranillo accompanied, before the carrot cake for dessert.
The group was entertaining (except for “Der Deutscher”) and most had a pleasant time. After dinner I returned to my cabin to drop the camera and string bag. Off to O’Sheehan’s for a nightcap of the top shelf Red Breast whiskey, sitting and chatting with the German woman now living in Berlin from the solo group who I met at the bar. We talked for about an hour before she left to make a call and I headed to my cabin to crash.
Day 21
When NCL dropped our port of call in Albania from the itinerary, rather than replacing it with another port of call, they “gave” us a day at sea. [Read this as a captured audience who would likely shop and gamble.] For breakfast they offered Shashuka, poached eggs over stewed tomatoes and peppers, which I love. I sat with a retired Navy man who had been based in Bremerton. Afterwards I climbed to the library (15) to get the puzzle and returned to my cabin for my morning intake of supplements, meds and vitamins. There was nothing in the Freestyle Daily of interest, so I tried to get online, and headed to the Internet desk for help. Ronnel was able to help me, and I got some emails handled, and put in my first Hero card.
Lunch in the MDR with folks from Ottawa consisted of a chef’s salad and fettucine alfredo. Another unscheduled afternoon, I just wandered the ship’s deck (steps) and then headed to my cabin where I read for an hour. At 5:30, Latitude members higher on the ladder were invited to a ship’s party, which I joined. After finding little food to soak up the glass of wine in a rather dark space, I checked in with the Solos group until they parted for dinner, returning to the Latitude party. The threesome I was speaking with asked me along to join them for supper at O’Sheehan’s. As I had a late specialty dinner reservation, I had a drink and the sausage sliders.
Los Lobos was a new specialty restaurant for me – I’d not encountered it on previous NCL sailings. Focused on Latin American cuisine, while I perused the menu corn chips and salsa appeared. Good salsa. Admiring the nearly empty space, a house salad and Queso Fundido to start, my main was Enchiladas de Mole as I’m a mole fan. The dessert offerings were unimaginative, so I tried the Tarteleta Maya with the Hildago Brandy Riserva. I made no comments regarding any of the food except the salsa. By 10 I was ready to read a bit and fold into my tent, as the alarm was set for 6:30 and an early start in Napoli.
Day 22 Napoli
Up with the alarm, and I was off the ship in three-quarters of an hour without eating. It took about 20 minutes to find the Flora Blue Car driver, whose name I never noted. There were 5 sites on my itinerary for the day, so we headed south along the Gulf of Naples. After about an hour, we’d arrived in Massa Lubrense. As it was Palm Sunday, church goers were passing through the streets carrying branches off olive trees which abound in the south of Italy.
There were two former cathedrals to visit. Chiesa Santa Maria della Lobra (1050-1200 and 1465-1543) was locked up tight, its pink steeple alongside the narrow yellow front façade has a single door. Adjacent next door was a convent, where I was unable to raise a response.
Over a balustrade, a small marina floated behind a stone breakwater. After a few frustrating outside pictures (it was Sunday!) we headed into town and the Ex cattedrale Santa Maria delle Grazie. (1543-1818) Here the church faced south over an open square, Traditional cruciform layout, the campanile / clock tower rode four stories, sitting to the east.
Entering the Antica Cattedrale di Massa Lubrense, I was impressed with the tilework on the floor of the narthex. Colorful elaborate tiling continued in the three aisles. Off the side aisles were alcoves with dedicated chapels; the transept had two on each arm. There were even old mural frescoes in some of these insets. I was able to enter the sacristy, where a rogue’s gallery of oval paintings of deceased bishops lined opposing walls over the cabinets containing vestments. I left impressed, looking forward to the new diocesan cathedral in Sorrento.
Maybe 10 minutes away, traffic was slowed due to the Palm Sunday procession. I was dropped off. Seeing parishioners following the priest, I hightailed it into the Cattedrale di Ss. Filippo e Giacomo which was nearly empty!
Stolid square columns, faced in plaster and covered in pink marble-mimicking designs, supported the clerestory windows and the flat vault. The nave ceiling has three large murals, framed in white and gold. A pseudo transept (the arms do not extend wider than the side aisles) features the broad altar table facing the congregation. Behind, in the quire, brilliant woodwork fills the apse.
I raced around, snapping like crazy, but the crowd was still on its procession. I walked the Corso Italia, a major street in Sorrento which parallels the central axis of the building, taking in the street merchants.
Exiting Sorrento, we took the roadway carved out of the sea-bordering hillside, through several tunnels before getting to Vico Equense. Traffic was bad. We descended steeply, taking numerous switchbacks before arriving at a vista point, about 90 meters above the sea.
There, squeezed into the overlook, the pink and white façade of the Ex cattedrale Santissima Annunziata (1330-1818) stood alongside the pink campanile. There were no good angles unless I could walk on air, over the stone wall. The westward view over that wall was breathtaking, cliffs opposite and a marina laid out behind a breakwater.
Entering the single double-doorway with cast bronze doors, the Church of the Annunciation has two narrow side aisles with the congregation sitting in the center. Neatly carved square columns support the open-beamed wooden vault, with a painting depicting Mary and the Archangel Gabriel. More paintings were mounted on the walls, particularly in the apse. My notes indicate I found it a simple church.
My driver decided to stick to the local roads along the seafront, rather than chance the traffic on the highway, well inland. Our stop would be Castellammare di Stabia, less than 10km along the Gulf of Naples. We did run into several processions on our way, but the Concattedrale di Santissima Maria Assunta e San Catello was situated close to the port.
Sited on a slight incline, the west-facing Baroque façade has three entry portals onto a porch, the belltower to the south. Cruciform in layout, a dome sits over the crossing, its lantern flooding the heart of the church.
The central nave is wide and tall, with elaborate murals filling the curved ceiling. The central painting is of the assumed Queen of Heaven looking down on Her Church. With cream-colored walls trimmed lightly in gold, and predominately white marble in the floors, this is a well-lit building. Most elaborate of the vault illustrations were over the apse, with gold and periwinkle blue (also used in the dome) highlighting the multiple religious scenes depicted. Two smaller domes, one round, the other octagonal, rise over side chapels. On exiting, I again admired the exquisite bronze doors, cleaned and polished to show its artistry.
Wending our way out of Castellammare, my driver had me back to the port about 40 minutes later. No problems this time with making payment by credit card, I was soon walking through the terminal and boarding the ship.
I passed by my cabin to drop my gear, heading to Deck 12 and the buffet. I built myself a plate-filling salad, enjoying my first meal of the day. Returning to the cabin for my netbook, I connected to the ship’s internet and did some financial bookkeeping. Then I used the mobile service in the port on my phone to accomplish more internet activities.
At 5:30 the Solos had returned, numbering 18. We headed to the dining room where I had Shanghai pork pot stickers, Asian-style pasta salad, and the Asian-style market fish as my main, drinking a glass of Chianti. For dessert, cannoli to balance the meal towards Italy. As a foursome, Sheila, an Aussie (woman), a Brit (man) and I headed to O’Sheehan’s where I had a double Jameson Stout before crashing for the night.
Day 23 Messina
The alarm went off at 6:30 and I was moving smartly, skipping breakfast and heading down with my camera, jacket and water with the intention of being off early for the 7:30 rendezvous. Port authorities delayed permission to come ashore twenty minutes from the scheduled 7am, so, after wending through the port shopping area, I was a bit tardy meeting my driver Daniele. We maneuvered through the parking lot to the Mercedez Benz sedan. With excellent English, he was off and we were heading towards Patti, on the northern coast.
As we rode, I was impressed by his inquisitive questions, all while carefully driving. We reached the Basilica Cattedrale di San Bartolomeo, finding a closed beige building, its left face covered with scaffolding and cordoned off from access. This western face
overlooked a drop to the Via Cattedrale below. An archway in the middle of the structure housed a narrow pair of wooden doors and bulletin board with information, which confirmed we were in the correct place. However, it was locked, and the priest in the office was unwilling to leave his computer. I was unable to see more than the southern façade and the view of the town off to the west. Exiting down the narrow one-way street, we came to another overlook where I was able to get a better shot of the eastern end, the belltower and what we’d already seen.
Crossing through Patti, on the opposite side of the valley we came to the round, aqua-blue Basilica Concattedrale dei Santi Martiri del XX secolo. Behind an iron fence atop a concrete wall, there was no access to even try the entry doors. With no cars in the parking lot, the building was obviously unoccupied.
Continuing to the east, my next goal was in TIndari, 10km away. We would stop at the rebuilt Basilica Santuario Maria Sanctissima del Tindari, known for its Black Madonna. Daniele had strongly suggested that this shrine was not to be bypassed. With its origins going back to the iconoclastic purges of the Eastern Church of images/statues, the Madonna Bruna had been left ashore during a storm. The first sanctuary was built, as legends of miraculous healings grew. The present structure was built post WW II over twenty years ending 1979. Set on a rise with stunning views of the Tyrrhenian Sea, it is built with the pale rose stone blocks trimmed in cream. Over the west-facing entry, rising over a deep narthex, is a brilliant belfry adorned with mosaics.
Entering the narthex, the rose marble is dominant. The floor is tiled with double crosses in a grid. Full sized modern stained-glass windows line the walls. Looking down the central aisle, many of the pews had been stood on end, under an elaborately painted mural framed in gold in the vault. On the side aisle walls were mosaics depicting the Passion of Christ on the north side, the life of the Virgin Mary on the south. The central aisle ends at the crossing, under a dome with lantern windows depicting the apostles, and the sanctuary fills the apse with an altar behind which the revered statue of the Black Madonna is held by black statues of angels, raising it over the tabernacle.
An ambulatory circles behind the Madonna, with modern mosaics on the wall revealing the history of the statue and the shrine. A small chamber behind the altar offers the sacrament of reconciliation. This is the original site of the first sanctuary. Darker rose columns, finely wrought carvings of plaster trimmed in gold, this space is more somber and not as bright.
Outside, I took pictures of the gardens and cliffs below, out towards the sea. Across the parking lot was a snack shop, so Daniele and I headed there to get a bite and use the facilities. Despite it being after 10, I still had a cappuccino with a pistachio biscuit.
On our way down the hill into town, a herd of cows climbed the road, forcing us into the left lane. Our next destination was the small town of Santa Maria del Mela. The simple façade of Basilica Concattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, up a flight of stone steps, was foreboding.
Closed for renovations, I managed to find the worker’s door and slipped in, capturing a handful of pictures before I was summarily tossed out. Still, I was grinning at being able to get inside.
Next on my list was an ex-cathedral in downtown Milazzo, but Daniele knew that there was another former cathedral that was part of a fortress, out on the Tono peninsula. Heading there first, for 7€ I gained admission to the Complesso Monumentale Castello di Milazzo. Entering through a couple of arches and climbing the stone road, I glimpsed the rear walls of the Duomo antico di Santo Stefano Protomartire (1610-1860). An imposing building, the space is still used for religious services, as well as a meeting venue and presentation hall.
After getting some outside shots, I entered a vast space. The building had been restored without much of the religious iconography and decorations, just white walls with light gray trim. An impressive dome stood over the crossing, and five chapels were in each of the side aisles, where murals could be found. On display in the lower level were more historic and archeological finds, including evidence of alternate use of the building.
Not wanting to keep Daniele waiting too long, I made my way to the amphitheater seating to get some side shots of the Antique Cathedral, and then began my return.
We drove back off the peninsula into Milazzo proper where we found a more modern (ex-cathedral 1937-1986) Chiesa Martirio di Santo Stefano Protomartire facing east on the Piazza Duomo. A campanile at the northeast corner, it had its own door, in addition to the 5 on the entry façade. Unfortunately, it was locked.
About an hour later we pulled into the center of Messina, and I walked down a slight incline through a tree-filled plaza to the Basilica Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta. Practically backing on the cruise port, the west entry has a separate 10-story astrological clock- and bell-tower on its northern corner.
The façade of horizontal stripes of darker mosaic stones is separated by native light pink blocks. The three entry doors, the two peaked arched side doors and the more elaborate gothic central door were welcoming.
Inside, the highly painted and decorated wooden beams of the central and side vaults is impressive. Light enters the nave from windows over the shrines of the side aisles and the clerestory windows atop the columns of the central aisle. The shrines feature statues of the apostles and early saints It is a very long nave with 10-columns per side. Brilliant tiling covers the floors. At the crossing, the sanctuary darkens as an arch defines the apse. The right-side altar held the sacrament, with an icon-like depiction of the Virgin Mother in the curved half-dome. To the left, an older Christ in judgement. Similarly, the central apse has Christ triumphant in the dome, a golden icon of Our Lady of Perpetual Succor below and a magnificent altar.
Outside, I admired again the astrological clock, largest in Europe, and the fenced off fountain that so tempted the selfie-taking tourists. Off in the distance, up on a hill, was another large domed church, but first we needed to visit the co-cathedral. La Cattedrale dell'Archimandritato del SS. Salvatore was a block or two away, albeit longer given Messina’s one-way grid.
Also known as the Concattedrale del Santissimo Salvatore, the Romanesque façade has gray columns bracketing the three entry doors. A pale orange tint, the building seemed to be in the center of a parochial girl’s school. The co-cathedral was locked.
Daniele proposed going up the hill to the imposing domed church I’d seen from the cathedral plaza. I suspect it was mainly to show me the distant Calabrian coast, mainland Italy, where two piers were being constructed to support a 4-kilometer-long bridge. From the balustrade I was able to see how close the cathedral was to the Dawn in the harbor. Churched-out, I passed on entering, but did enjoy the view and took a video, rare for me.
After dropping me at the pier, I returned to the ship and passed by my cabin, unloading my camera, jacket and backpack. Up to the buffet for a quick salad, I did the crossword puzzle and answered a few emails and Facebook before heading to the Solos group. At 6 the group of 16 left for dinner, and I returned to my cabin to back up my photos and read a bit. Another early day would follow.
Day 24
Waking at 7, as I prepared to head out to grab a quick bite at the buffet, the captain came on and announced that due to heavy winds, the port of call in Valletta, Malta had been canceled. Because I had a Viator excursion booked, I immediately got online to advise them, and then headed to the dining room to have a leisurely served breakfast. Seated with a couple from Tacoma and a solo male from Naples (Florida), we discussed our options while I had shashuka, English muffin, bacon, OJ and coffee.
With not much to do but shop, I found a place in the shade on the pool deck to read and finish the crossword puzzle. An email had advised me that my tour in Rijeka, Croatia had been rescheduled a week later, so I needed to advise GetYourGuide that I had to cancel. While I was online, I checked the FlixBus from Trieste to Rijeka, moving my reservation to noontime from the 5pm I’d had to book originally.
Lunch was in the Aura, main dining room, with an Army couple. They have 4 kids, 13 to 7 alternating genders, and are living in Israel – he’s a liaison to the IDF. From the photos, I’m guessing I had sweet and sour soup, a nicoise salad, penne all'arrabbiata, and chocolate lava cake with strawberries. After lunch I found a quiet chair in the atrium and read until we’d come within range of Sicily. Then I moved to the promenade and got emails sorted.
The Solos meetup with John had us in a circle, spinning the microphone and asking a yes/no question. The 13 were then off to dinner, but I had a specialty dinner, and asked Sheila (Washington) to join me at Le Bistro. I started with escargot bourguignons, French onion soup, and the lamb chops, accompanied by Hill & Dale, a South African Pinotage (wine). With wine remaining, I opted for the fruit and cheese plate, rather than a sweet.
Day 25 Siracusa
With a full day (7.5 hours) ship excursion: Mount Etna and Catania, starting at 7, I was up early and in the theater at 6:30, per instructions. We finally started moving 20 minutes later, and in 15 more minutes were loaded on the bus. Our guide was Patricia, driver Giorgio. On our way to Catania, we soon passed by a war memorial cemetery. Patricia kept up a light banter as we headed 65km north along the coast. About an hour later, we were standing in the Piazza del Duomo in a light drizzle. Giving us a brief talk on features of the square, including the Fontana dell'Elefante (uʻ Liotru), she then gave us 35 minutes free time to explore and shop. Of course, my focus was on the Basilica Cattedrale di Sant'Agata. After several shots outside, I moved through one of the three western façade entries, the elegant Baroque ornamentation still evident under overcast skies.
Inside, pairs of rounded pink marble supported the rear loft while seven thick rectangular columns rose 10-meters in arched pairs; clerestory windows filled another 10 meters admitting clear light. The marble floor pews with geometric designs down the central aisle separated the wooden pews. Along the side aisle walls were altars with large framed oil paintings dedicated to various saints, and one column had a dedication to native son composer Vincenzo Bellini. Ahead ending the side aisles were chapels for St Agatha and, behind an intricate black iron screen, the sacrament; the transept arms held chapels to the Madonna (south) and mausoleum / reliquary (north).
The presbytery was reached by 7 steps, another step to the altar table, and then another into the sanctuary. In the apse the curved walls bore murals of various martyrs including Agatha, with the half dome depicting Mary and the Trinity. Above the crossing is a dome with a small lantern at the center, 8 clear windows all simply white.
Out to join my group, we slowly strolled to the fish market, which was crowded and narrow. Around a corner and more produce was available, enticing purchases. One plaza had hung pale pink, white and blue umbrellas overhead. Shops along the street were open, selling meat, cheese, fruits and vegetables. Our route took us in a rectangle back to the cathedral square, and we then headed towards the bus pickup.
Once back on the bus we began to climb. Numerous switch backs allowed us to see various lava flows from previous eruptions of Mt Etna. Most frequently mentioned was the 1989 episodes, one of the more serious events. With the combination of clouds, fog and smoke, most of my pictures appear monochrome! Shooting through the bus’s window as we rolled along wasn’t optimal.
Finally stopping, we were given time to walk some of the small hills to observe craters, with the Silvestri being more popular – down into the crater and/or walking its rim. It called to mind Haleakala on Maui and Kilauea on the Big Island – the landscape was very reminiscent. Back to the bus, we rode a short distance and unloaded again, this time at La Cantoniera, a bar/restaurant catering to bus excursions. We were served family style, portions of pasta in a tomato sauce, and veal scallopini, broccoli, mashed potatoes and a mixed salad, with sparkling water and red wine. Lemon pound cake for dessert.
Back on the bus and returning to Siracusa, I managed to be on the side to see a dwelling which had been partially buried in lava during the 1989 eruptions.
With heavy traffic slowing us, as we rolled through Siracusa, I spotted (no picture) the tower of the Basilica Santuario Madonna delle Lacrime, a modern shrine in the heart of the newer old town. I’d visited it in 2023 on the MSC Divina stop. As the all aboard was set for 2:30, we were rushed to board when we arrived at 2:50, and I climbed up to the top deck to watch the sail away. There’s even a brief video of our departure from the port.
Heading into O’Sheehan’s with my journal, I got a snack and began updating my journal. Dallas-based Lara and Glaen joined me, and we chatted. They had raffle tickets and were going to skip the drawing, so handed me theirs. I headed down to the Bliss lounge, and after much hooplah, the staff drew a single ticket for a free cruise. No, not one I had. Up two flights to the lounge for Solos time, with 8 heading to dinner (with a straggler making it 9.)
My starters were Seared Atlantic scallops and Blue cheese soup; with the “Classic Entrée” Herb-crusted rotisserie chicken for my main. Over dinner I arranged to meet up with Yolanda (Aussie) so we could do the Corfu tour together in the morning.
On my return to my cabin, I spoke with the “photo boys”, first in their shop and with a second pair in the atrium – they were interested in knowing how my excursion had gone. As I was entering my cabin, I spoke with the couple across from me, Jimmy and Caleb, to get a few pointers for my future visit to their hometown of Cairns.
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