EF Tour of Greece - Part II
- KB Cook
- Dec 4, 2025
- 19 min read
Day 63 Athens (Tour day 9)
Journaling at 6:45am, I caught up on the arrival day. I didn’t anticipate visiting any churches, so wore shorts, and bemoaned that breakfast wouldn’t be ready until 7 sharp. Once we were fed, we exited and boarded a small passenger van which took us to the Acropolis, where we climbed to join the throngs awaiting the opening of the gates. We met our guide as we gained access. Holding a small unfurled blue umbrella, we proceeded to (obviously preselected) spots where she discoursed at length through Whisper.
A bit different from my previous visit in February, 1980, with the crowds of tourists we clambered over the hilltop, striving for prime spots to take our pictures during our hour of free time. Some of my photos can be found at this link. Our next stop was a souvenir shop, which we shared with another EFTours group.
Back on the van, we began a rolling tour of the city, with our guide too soft-spoken for the onboard microphone, and continued to fail with the Whispers. We got out at the open-air Panathenaic Stadium before returning to the hotel.
Georgia gathered some of the group to head to a square about 5 minutes away. I’d seen a laundromat in my meanderings the day before, and needed clean wearables, so with Clover, we wheeled our bag of soiled clothes down the street, across a square where a music venue was setting up, and spent a couple hours accomplishing the task. Having spent 11€ for two loads, I returned to put my items on the bed to allow those still slightly damp to finish drying.
We were on our own for the afternoon and evening, although an optional Greek Evening was offered. With a show of Greek dancing a la Zorba the Greek. I passed on this 75€ experience, instead heading out solo looking for an interesting venue in the neighborhood. Gastropub caught my eye, and I entered their space before 8, apparently well ahead of the dinner crowd for a Sunday. A single page English menu offered several intriguing items, and I chose fried okra to start, which was served with a tomato pesto seasoned with sesame and ginger. The roasted carrots with orange, agave, apricot cream and crunchy seeds also sounded good, so I had a second starter. Both were deliciously awesome.
And having not had pork in a while, I opted for the pork chops with lemon olive oil, which turned out to be a fail – tough and cool. Two draft beers accompanied. I headed back to the hotel to pack, and get horizontal early, as we had a very early start on Monday.
Day 64 Athens to Santorini (Tour day 10)
The hotel wake-up call came at 5:15, and I was in the lobby with my bags 35 minutes later. A take-away breakfast bag was passed out: apple, dried fruit pack, 2 slices of cake, a baloney and cheese sandwich. By 6 we were loading onto the bus, reached the Piraeus port by 6:25 and were in seats on the ferry by 6:45.
Stops at Mykonos, Naxos, and Ios before we left the ferry at Santorini at 13:15, having experienced somewhat rough seas. I did manage a few shots of the ports as we waited aboard the ferry. (Of course, there’s no easy way to identify which pictures were in which port, exept by timestamp.) My breakfast bag disappeared early, and I had a beer and a focaccia baguette sandwich about noon while on board.
Getting off the ferry in Santorini was a massive mess. Too many people pushing luggage around, and obviously no preplanning for most of the groups. Once we found the bus, loaded up the luggage, handled an emergency bio-break, we met our guide and the bus climbed the cliff face so we could head south to Akrotini. As we passed vineyards between towns of small white-washed buildings, the deep blue of the Aegean filled the horizon.
An important archeological site, Akrotini is on a level with Pompeii and Hercaleaum in southern Italy. Buried in volcanic ash in the 16th century BCE, excavations had only begun in 1967. Our guide was good; however, he acted rushed by the cruise ship’s excursion group’s guide who kept pushing into our smaller group. We moved around on platforms and pathways under a skylit roof, looking down into ruins of homes, buildings, baths.
At points, we could see how deep the levels went, as the settlement originated 6 millennia or more ago. One more interesting fact was that there have been no findings of the remains of bodies, as had been found after the Vesuvius eruption near Naples in 79CE. Click this link to view more pictures.
Back on the bus, we headed to Pyrgos Kallistis, midway north to Fira, for a rest stop. The hilltop church with a sky blue dome and multilevel belltower caught my attention, as well as the nearby fields of vines, which were growing very close to the ground. Open air shops hustled souvenirs with the “evil eye” emblem, seemingly on just about everything. I took a quick video looking out to the east, down the gradually sloping land to the sea. Back on the bus, we continued heading to Fira, soon to arrive at the Daedalus Hotel.
Room 127 has a king bed, an okay bath (lacks surfaces), a desk and a single window/door leading to an unswept balcony, all in a small room. I found the hotel to be noisy, but hoped for quiet overnight. After getting settled, I checked, and the water from the tap wasn’t drinkable, so I headed out to get several large bottles.
Unlike the other optional events where cash was collected to join, that evening we had the option to head out to a restaurant for dinner and pay the establishment. Ten of us (John and Karla, Brenda and Bob, Carmen and Gail, Bill, Maxine and me) joined Georgia at Rastoni Concept, a dining venue sitting on the edge of the caldera. Zachary and Amber sat separately, celebrating their wedding anniversary, but the diners could overlook their table with a stunning view of the setting sun, Nea Kameni Island, the departing cruise ships.
My meal started with zucchini fritters and a double IPA. An individual moussaka appeared as my main, which was to DIE! Just awesome. Armed only with the phone, my sunset shots are blurry – it’s hard to hold it steady at arm’s length, and hitting the button to take the picture.
Day 65 Santorini (Tour day 11)
This was a completely unscheduled day. (And obviously not a picture taking day.) There was an optional catamaran and dinner sailing, but I avoid the sun, and a boat doesn’t offer much cover. While I’d slept well on the hard mattress, I was pleased with the room temperature.
Off to breakfast, I sat with Clover who advised me that I was being too hard on Georgia – I needed to modify my expectations, I guess. We also talked about Sher’s fear of Chania, which she’d indicated she’d join me for on Crete.
Back to the room, I found the balcony swept, so I journaled a bit, did a bit of tour reviewing on the app and finished my emails. After 11 I decided to head out into town, as I’d heard there were only 2 cruise ships visiting for the day. In the lobby I was able to speak with Bob, Brenda and Maxine, who were heading to their rooms to prepare for the boat ride. I strolled the two main tourist drags of Fira, more amused than aggravated at the seeming rudeness (obliviousness) of most of the younger tourists.
The day before, on our bus ride to and from Akrotini, I’d noticed a sign for a brewery. Somewhat outside of town, I walked the road on the upper rim of the caldera, arriving at Ftelos Brewery about a quarter hour before they opened. First guest of the day, I started with a flight of 6 while sitting under the shade outside, with a view across the road of a vineyard. I asked for a Pinza Ftelos, a cold pizza of cheese, meat and fruits. At a neighboring table, I spoke with a couple from Calgary, she being 7 weeks pregnant. She watched him taste.
A couple from St Louis filled the neighboring table next, and I learned they were a preacher and in the insurance industry. As they tasted, I had #7, an Imperial stout. While hitting the head, I was able to view the aluminum tanks of the distillery. The rosemary gose (#5) appealed most to me, so I had a full pour. Chatting with the waitperson, he detected my interest in the field across the street, and with a glass of Assyrtiko, he walked the St Louis couple and me across the street to show us how the vines were trained to grow in “wreaths”, and were pruned close to the ground because of the frequent wind. Assyrtiko is a white varietal, indigenous to Santorini.
Returning to the shade, the couple left and 8 young men from the visiting NCL ship showed up to drink. We all chatted until they had to head back to the ship, and I settled up after adding a t-shirt to the tab. I sauntered up the road to the hotel, and picked up a bottle of tonic at the grocery store. The front desk provided me with ice, and I sat on the balcony with my drink, chilling.
Two hours later, I headed out to find dinner. I chanced onto Bechamel, down the slope to the east of the tourist throngs (most of whom had returned to their ships). “Bouyurdi”, a baked starter with feta, pepper, tomato and oregano, which was interesting. Pastitsio for the main, which was memorable. I was the only diner there before 9 on a Tuesday evening, which was a shame – it is a nice restaurant. Back by 9:30, I packed the big roller, backed up the pictures from both days, and read until I crashed.
Day 66 Santorini and to Heraklion (Tour day 12)
By 9:30, I had eaten breakfast, packed and was in the lobby with both bags an hour before group departure. I chatted a bit with the departing Roads Scholar group who were leaving for the late morning ferry. Once our group got their gear together, we headed to the bus and loaded up. Boarding, we rode 35 minutes north to Oia, the destination town with the blue-domed church. Georgia led us up from the parking lot to the square where I took a few pictures of the group backed by the island and sea.
Set loose on our own at 11:15 with a rendezvous time at the bus of 2pm, I headed southeast along the path between shops. Whitewashed lodgings and restaurants filled the slop down to the water, while fellow tourists thronged the narrow walkway. Getting as close to Fira as feasible, I got a few shots and reversed, walking towards the end of the caldera’s edge. This afforded me several unusual angles for the blue-dome church, which had fewer folks on my first return back to the square. Below, catamarans anchored in a quiet bay.
The north end obviously didn’t get as much tourist traffic, as abandoned buildings, rotting water vessels, and crumbled walls filled spaces here and there. Still, there were small churches, cafés and shops, as well as residences. Nary a cloud in the sky, I kept applying sunscreen and angling my hat, seeking the shady sides of the walkways. Stairs in the rocks led down to more dwellings, old fortifications, and eventually the water. I found my windmill shots.
Heading to the parking lot, I was intercepted by Georgia, who advised the rendezvous spot was behind the church. She went off in search of group members while I kept those who had found shade nearby together. Back on the bus, we headed south, bypassing the center of Fira and then down the steep winding cliff-hugging road to the ferry port. Arriving ahead of the ferry, the incoming crowds initially left, and then the outbound crowded onto the ship. I managed to find a seat with a couple from Germany, he an Indian teacher from Brisbane, married to a German woman. We had a nice conversation for the 3-hour ride.
Arriving just before 6, we were quickly back on the bus and heading to our lodgings. On arrival, the lobby of the Hotel Capsis Astoria was a madhouse with two other tour groups attempting to check-in (affectionately referred to by me as Mongol hordes.)
Up in room 320, I had a large room with a king bed, a large full-wall of glass out to a balcony. The layout was great and the bathroom nice. We had an hour to unpack and freshen up before meeting in the lobby at 7.
We walked to a local restaurant where a prearranged menu had been prepared. Petousis served the meal family style, with platters of salad and appetizers to start. In addition to the traditional Greek salad of onions, cucumbers, tomato and feta, there were dolmas (stuffed grape leaves), olives, and something fried. Dinner was a grilled pork chop with potatoes and mixed greens; Cretan red wine accompanied. Dessert included a square of cake and yogurt with cookies; raki was served to end the meal.
We were finished dinner by 8:30, so several of us decided to visit the pool bar on the roof. Zac and Amber, Bob, Gail, and I went up as the sun was setting behind Mount Ida. We had an enjoyable time chatting over nightcaps.
Day 67 Heraklion (Tour day 13)
After a light breakfast at the buffet, we headed to the bus and left for Knossos, nearby to the south. Our guide was Marie, who was interesting and knowledgeable; she had both a good patter as well as clear explanations as she led us through the archeological site. I thought she was the best of those EF had provided. I can’t begin to recall all the specifics, but I took 200 photos with the Nikon (and none with the phone!) so some of them can be found at this link.
After 2 hours we returned to the bus. Maria was leaving us at the marina, so with John and Karla, I got off too. (The group was heading to another optional offering, a wine tasting and visit to a women’s cooperative.) I spoke with Maria, complementing her and thanking her for a great tour. She advised me on the cathedral, which had been built with Venetian influences and also served time as a mosque. John and Karla were off to find lunch, and I set off alone.
Walking from the marina, I came to the Cathedral Holy Temple of Saint Titus / Καθεδρικός Ιερός Ναός Αγίου Τίτου which had been raised as a Greek Orthodox cathedral in 2013. Under the Venetians, it had been a Roman Catholic cathedral (1210-1669) before the Ottoman takeover of Crete, when it was used as a mosque. Destroyed by earthquake in 1856, the mosque was rebuilt, and converted to orthodox worship after the 1923 Cretan union with Greece. Facing northwest, the narthex fronts a near square building with a central dome.
Its exterior exudes the Moorish influences – the window shapes and the frills at the roofline. Inside, the chairs in the nave are roped off, keeping visitor to the outer edges of the space. The iconostasis is wood, with icons inset strategically. Stained-glass windows are ornamental, in deep colors, abstract geometric in style. Murals depicting scenes from Church history fill the upper walls. The dome is unpainted although the supporting arches bear the icons of the Evangelists. The cathedral displays the skull of St Titus, a disciple of St Paul, and referred to as an apostle.
Because I knew (thought) that there was only one cathedral in the city of Heraklion, I set out shopping. I’d dropped yet another camera battery the day before. Getting lost frequently, I wound up backtracking several times looking for camera shops. To no avail, I would have to survive one the 3 batteries I had. Finally giving up the search, I headed back to the hotel as my left leg was hurting.
[As it turns out, there is another Greek Orthodox cathedral in the capitol city – Saint Minas – which was the one I had in my notes. Had I checked later, I could have visited on my return in mid-June aboard the cruise, but I only discovered my error while writing up my notes.]
At 7 the group gathered and we headed to Athali Restaurant for a Cretan dinner. Feeling adventurous, I opted for 4 appetizers, starting with fried snails in vinegar. The bottle of Her King, a cabernet sauvignon blend from Klados Winery was superb. My other platters were the house Dakos and Milfeuille, and the meat pie.
Invited to the roof deck again, none of the group showed up – I noted that I’d probably managed to annoy everyone to the point of being ostracized. Sher sent me a text canceling her going with me the next day.
Day 68 Chania (Heraklion) (Tour day 14)
EF GoAhead Tours had not scheduled anything for the day. I had located another cathedral to the west in the city of Chania, and arranged with daytrip.com for a driver to collect me from the hotel in Heraklion and drive me there and back. So I was up, had breakfast, and was sitting in the lobby on time. Kostas was a tad late, the 26-year-old single civil engineer proving to be an informative and entertaining conversationalist. We chatted about a wide variety of subject as he drove west along the 150km north coastal road.
Kostas wasn’t a guide, so he dropped me near the center of town as the streets there were pedestrian and residents only. He disappeared, setting a rendezvous for 5 hours later. The day was overcast, and there were occasional light showers. Walking the wide sidewalks, that Friday proved to be an intriguing day. Streets weren’t crowded, and most shops were open at midday. It was obvious that the economy depended on tourism.
With a deep plaza in front, the Holy Metropolitan Church of the Presentation of the Virgin Mary (Trimartiri) / Ιερός Μητροπολιτικός Ναός Εισοδίων της Θεοτόκου had two of its doors open. Inside photography wasn’t permitted, so I have a single shot, the iconostasis down the nave aisle filled with cordons.
Back out to the square, and heading east through a narrow walkway between buildings to reach the Holy Catholic Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary / Ιερός Καθολικός Ναός Κοιμήσεως της Θεοτόκου. As with the Roman Catholic cathedral in Thessaloniki, it is situated in the center of a block surrounded by commercial buildings front and back, a former Fransciscan monastery to the north.
A simple four-bell campanile stands at the southeast corner, and the entrance to the narthex is through a single door in an unassuming wall.
Inside the building, the central nave is flanked by square columns with arches, supporting a curved vault with semi-circular fans of clear clerestory windows. One hundred twenty-five years old, a modern altar table stands at the front of the sanctuary, the cathedra behind, in front of the original high altar. The side aisles are narrow, offering niches with icons and paintings above head height. I’d not expected this to be a cathedral, due to size and Catholic population, but was surprised and pleased. (Per Gcatholic, there is no bishop seated at present.)
Wandering after my noontime visits to the cathedrals, I strolled the commercial downtown streets, reaching the Old Venetian Port with the Küçük Hasan Mosque at one corner. In addition to merchants in stores, along the street and in most open plazas, creative trinkets were being offered. Ruins of the old city walls showed evidence of gateways of the past. I stuck my head into a few museums. About 2 I slipped into a seat at a table under the awning of an open-air self-service restaurant. Laganon offered fresh pasta, so I selected pappardelle with diavolo gravy. This was accompanied by 2 glasses of wine, and followed with tiramisu and a cappuccino. (Yes, I know that’s a no-no.)
After my meal, I wandered past the lighthouse, viewing the many vessels in the marina. Passing the theater and then the Arsenali Veneziani, I reached the Sabbionara Gate to exit the old city. Heading south towards the rendezvous point at least an hour early, I ran into a group of German young men, posing in a heart-shaped structure, flashing a “I love my boyfriend” t-shirt. I texted Kostas, who arrived in 15-minutes and we began to make our way out of Chania.
Kostas had a suggestion for a stop on the way back, given that we had extra time. The small town of Fodele is about 15km outside Heraklion, and is the birthplace of the Renaissance painter/sculptor/architect known as El Greco. The exit from the roadway took us on a curving road with switchbacks, through the small town and up the hill to a small museum. A sloping walk passed a souvenir shop to the small stone house that is now a museum. Placards with information, maps, reproductions provided an overview of the life and work of Doménikos Theotokópoulos. We passed a lovely small stone church on our way back, stopping for a few exterior photos.
Dropped off about 6, I retired to my room to freshen up, and then headed out to find supper and an ATM. I got Greek fast food, gyro and a soft drink, once I’d replenished my cash supply. On my way back to room 320, I collected the dry-cleaned sports jacket at the front desk. After eating the innards of the gyro (too much bread), I packed up the big roller, pushing it near the door for our early start. Georgia had warned us of the 6:15 alarm.
Day 69 back to Athens (Tour day 15)
Up with the alarm and the bag out into the hall for collection, I had a quick breakfast in the buffet. Grabbing the small roller, I joined the group as we boarded the bus and set off for the airport. Once there, I got my bag checked, went through security, and found a seat in the waiting area for the hour-plus until boarding.
Once seated in the middle seat of a full plane, we were off the ground on time, and down in Athens similarly on time. Of course, my big roller was the last piece of luggage to come through to the carousel. On a bus, we headed to the Hotel Athenaeum Eridanus where our luggage was stored in the baggage room. We had the day off, with much of the group going to find souvenirs.
My first goal was to get more spare batteries for the Nikon, which I accomplished easily. Then I needed to head to the Holy Metropolitan Church of the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary / Ιερός Μητροπολιτικός Ναός Ευαγγελισμού της Θεοτόκου, the Greek Orthodox cathedral I’d not yet visited. On the Square Mitropoleos, an open space faces the western entry façade, while trees fill adjoining space with shade for vendors and cafés. For me, that meant that I’d struggle with foliage to get the better shot of the cathedral.
Before entering, I went to the south to the Holy Church of the Virgin Mary Gorgoepikoos and Saint Eleutherius. Interesting because its walls are sources from previously built structures, many bearing marks revealing their original use. Cruciform layout of a cross in a square, a narrow dome rises above the center. There was much less ornamentation, raw stone walls bearing only a few icons, the iconostasis plain panels. Still, I was much intrigued.
Entering the cathedral was a sharp contrast. Gilded icons cover the walls, fill the arches and columns, adorn the elaborate iconostasis. The central dome is raised over lantern windows. Unusual, there were framed painting of historical events hanging on the walls. While dark inside, the rear and transept arms walls have circular windows filled with stained-glass geometrics, giving the nave a blue light. In the more Western form, there are side aisles on the north and south, which have galleries in the nave.
When preparing for the trip, I’d noted 4 cathedrals in Athens, and this had been the third. The final was Greek Catholic, and was a 90-minute walk (Maps said just under an hour) heading almost due north. In retrospect, I probably should have used public transportation (20 minutes), but it was a brilliant sunny Saturday, and I had plenty of time. I passed through plazas, took a rest break at a ritzy hotel lobby, marveled at public and street art, and saw more of the “real Athens” than a coach tour would have provided.
Once I reached the Greek Byzantine Catholic Cathedral of Holy Trinity / Καθεδρικός και Ενοριακός Ιερός Ελληνόρρυθμος Καθολικός Ναός Αγίας Τριάδος, Maps had delivered me to its rear. High walls and hedges offered privacy, and I was finally able to see the building once I got to Archarnon Street. A closed gate at the corner didn’t bode well.
Continuing along the wrought-iron fencing, the gate near the adjacent Exarchate Palace/Office yielded to my gaining access to the half-circle drive in front of the entrance. I sought my angles to show the dome and the belltower, before ascending the short flight of stairs to the portico and doors. All the doors were locked, and I was unable to get a response from the offices.
A couple drove up, and I approached them to see if they might have access. We walked around the front to a set of stairs down to the basement, where the family they were visiting advised that they were caretakers for the Ukrainian church using the lower level, and had no access (or priestly permission) to let me in. Frustrated, I left the grounds without visiting the church proper. I decided to try to find a taxi, and began heading south towards the hotel. The few that I saw were heading home in the opposite direction, and two declined to return to the center city.
About an hour into my walk, I arrived at the Roman Catholic cathedral, so I was getting close, in familiar grounds. Another half hour and I had checked into the hotel and was up in room 210. King bed, a balcony with chairs and a table, enough space.
Tired, I rested until 6, when the group gathered for our farewell dinner. We set off walking, with a view of the Acropolis bringing back memories. Almost a kilometer, we reached Antica Café Restaurant.
Appetizers were served family style. Two salads – the traditional Greek of tomato, bell pepper, onion, cucumber, and feta cheese with capers; the other a quinoa salad with citrus fruits, which was romaine and leaf lettuce and included pieces of haloumi. The appetizers were zucchini croquettes, dolmadakia, bougiourdi (meze). My main was chicken souvlaki with rice. I found the appetizers delicious, but the chicken was only fair. I probably should have been more adventurous (if that was an option. My initial notes are legible, followed by 2-inches of gibberish.) Dessert was sour cherries with yoghurt and honey and Greek orange pie with ice cream.
Dinner ended about 8pm, and we began the march back to the hotel. It was still daylight, so the setting sun’s rays colored the Acropolis hill to glow gold. By 9:15 with Zac and Amber, Bob and Brenda, we were up at the rooftop bar, getting pictures of the now-lighted Acropolis with our phones. Later, Clover and Georgia joined us, as we periodically tried one more time for a clear shot. By 11:15, I decided I needed the Nikon, and slipped downstairs to grab it, and got some great pix of the whole hilltop and the Parthenon with the zoom.
Day 70 Athens/Piraeus (Tour ends day 16)
Despite the option of checkout at 11 and being up until midnight, I was still up at 8. I dawdled, went down for breakfast. Most of the group had departed for early flights, and Georgia had bid farewell at dinner. By 10 I was checked out and, in a taxi, bound for my lodgings in the port of Piraeus. Georgia had called the day before, and I was assured I could leave my gear there early, and retrieve when I checked in later that afternoon.
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