EF Tour of Greece - Part I
- KB Cook

- 4 days ago
- 19 min read
Europe trip 2025 Part 2
Day 56 Thessaloniki 2 (tour starts for me Day 2)
[Previous to this in my trip report, starting 24 March, I’d crossed the Atlantic on the Emerald Princess, cruised around the Italian Peninsula aboard the NCL Dawn, and begun traversing the Balkan countries, focusing on visiting and photographing cathedrals. On 17 May, I was about to join EF GoAhead Tours on a group land package “Grand Tour of Greece.” For two weeks I would be with a group of 12 others as we explored the land and islands of the southern end of the Balkans.]
[From the previous part of the report: The meeting point and (new to me) hotel for my group land tour of Greece was at the City Hotel, about a kilometer away, so I headed out onto the sidewalk and strolled and rolled my way to the next step of this adventure.]
Walking into City Hotel, a modern lodging in Thessaloniki, a white board welcomed the tour group, and advised that Georgia, the tour director, would be there to help. She appeared, a rather short dark-haired woman with decidedly bright red lipstick. She got me registered, and supervised the delivery of my gear to room 414. (It was officially day 2 of 16 for the tour, the first being for travel from North America.)
Good sized room, two queen beds, large shower, not much shelf space in the bathroom. As my gear got delivered, I unpacked toiletries, used the head, and headed down to the lobby. Sipping on a Metaxa 7-star (an excellent Greek brandy), I struck up a chat with Sher, a young nurse from New Jersey who was meeting her sister; they were going with the tour.
With a couple of hours before the first gathering, I decided to get out into the wonderful weather. I strolled the tourist squares, window shopped along pedestrian streets, and people watched. I’d left the camera in the room, and didn’t use the phone, so I have no recollection of what all I specifically did. By 4:30 I was back at the Hotel, heading to my room. I did some journaling, checked email, and just dawdled until the 6:30 meeting in the lobby to meet the dozen fellow travelers. Georgia explained the plan for that evening and set the start of Monday morning. By 7:30 we were finally ready to head out on foot for dinner.
Kioupia Ladadiki had a long table for us on the sidewalk under a glass shield. A most pleasant surprise was to find that we had no smokers in the group, and the hostess was keeping them away! The meal had been pre-ordered, was served family style.
The starter was a sweet honey-coated bread that had been twisted into a roll, a Greek salad, a plate of mixed grill meats with French fries (lamb was the best!) and chocolate mousse. Our group consisted of Carmen and Gail, an older couple from Cape Cod; Brenda and Bob, and their son Zach with his wife Amber, who are from outside Sacramento; John and Carla, who are from Colorado and the Netherlands; the half-sisters Sher and Clover, nurses from New Jersey; and solos Bill from Arizona and Maxine from Manitoba.
We returned to the hotel, and after grabbing my journal, I came down to the lobby to have another Metaxa 7. I had a chat with Bill, and then spent time writing my recollection of the evening. The lobby was full of several groups of tours, more homogeneous than ours.
Day 57 Thessaloniki (Tour Day 3)
Georgia had arranged for the hotel to make wake-up calls, which were earlier than the alarm I had set on my phone. Occupants drifted into the breakfast room, with tables for 2 or 4, and I had scrambled eggs, salami, cheese, croissant, juice and coffee. After returning to my room for my camera, I joined the group at 8:30 in the lobby. We set out for a city tour. And here was when I discovered “tour director” meant coordinator, as we were introduced to our local guide Nellie. Georgia lives in Thessaloniki, but guiding would never be one of her tasks.
Our tour started on the waterfront. Off across the bay were the snow-kissed mountains of Thessaly. Thessaloniki is northern Greece, in the area called Macedonia, hence the Greek insistence on one of 4 northern neighbors being called North Macedonia. On the promenade, a large statue of Alexander the Great, mounted on a horse, dominates the view. Climbing the hill, we were heading to the castle and promenade on the acropolis. Stunning view out over the Thermaic Gulf, the haze gradually lifting to reveal the snowcaps 30 miles away. Next up to St Demetrious, where we spent time both in the nave and in the crypt.
Then off to the Rotunda, where Nellie pointed out the fragments of murals which decorated the dome overhead. The archeological excavations outside may have been former cathedral buildings. The Arch of Galerius has carvings of war scenes of Rome’s victory against the Persians at the end of the third century CE.
Heading from history to today, we came through the Aristotle Square and threaded through pedestrian streets to the open-air market. Passing small antique stores, several fish markets, we came to an olive stand. There the proprietress spoke on the multiple kinds of olives, how they taste and offered samples.
As the city tour ended, I had a chat with Nellie, and she suggested that I go visit the Church of the Acheiropoietos, one of the oldest churches in the city. She thought it might have been an early cathedral. I headed back towards the Rotunda, finding the building. It was closed and had no additional information beyond what I’d find online.
With the end of the city tour, the group dispersed – many finding being close to midday called for lunch. While I headed to the old church, they went their ways and no plans were yet made for dinner. Once I got back to the hotel, I spent time online with the netbook and on the phone, resolving various banking issues and clearing email that I didn’t want to deal with on the phone. There had been a request to share my photos from during the tour from members of the group, so I uploaded some to Nikonspace, which can be viewed here.
Despite chatter on the EF app, I chose to have dinner solo. I sat in the lobby for a bit, speaking with a student Nicolo, from Ohio, who was waiting on his tour. I headed out towards the cruise port (since my June cruise had cancelled the port stop) and snapped a mural on a building - a phoenix arising out of a woman’s head. I had dinner at Trizoni Exclusive. I was well ahead of the Monday dinner crowd, so the bright sunshine bounced off the buildings across the way. At a seaport, I wanted fresh fish, so they brought out the whole red fish for my approval. While it broiled, I started with tzatziki with peasant bread and olives and a glass of dry white wine. I very much enjoyed the starter. The fish appeared, served with a lemon sauce. The fish was dry, unseasoned, and the dressing was bland. Unsuccessful choice here, but I enjoyed the glass of rosé wine. I got talked into dessert, the restaurant’s halva with cinnamon ice cream. Served with a dessert wine on the house, it was okay. And then sticker shock hit - 78€!
Back to the room, it was still too cool and I called to have a heater sent up. On my task list for the evening was to go through the packet Georgia had given me, so I’d have a better idea of what was ahead, as it gave a bit more detail that the marketing information. As we changed locations in the morning, I organized the big roller so it could be closed up and out the door before breakfast. Then a bit of reading and sleep.
Day 58 Meteora (Tour Day 4)
The 7:30 alarm had me up, getting clean and dressed, with the suitcase packed. The big roller and I were out the door at 8, and I headed downstairs to breakfast of eggs, salami, cheese, croissant, mini pain au chocolat, OJ and coffee. Afterwards, back to the room to clean teeth and pack the small roll-on, then down to the lobby. After checking out, sat with the college group from Ohio and the straggling EF group until the luggage appeared. We had to collect our bigger bags and maneuver them to the sidewalk. Then down the street, around a corner to the waiting bus where luggage was loaded and we boarded the coach bus.
The day was splendid. As we rode to the south and then west, snowcapped Mt Olympus was visible to our right. The three-hour ride took an additional 30 minutes, (with a 10-minute break at 10 for a rest stop.) Once in the region, we had lunch of “kalarritiko” lamb with roasted sweet and regular potatoes in a dark gravy (instead of the proffered wild mushrooms.) Red wine was the accompaniment, with water. And for dessert a small square of orange cake with a scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream. Our local guide Tina joined us for lunch.
Soon thereafter we were offloaded at the top of a decent of rough stairs along a dirty path that took us winding through a woods. During the 15-minute walk, through the trees we could spot monasteries perched on the nearby cliffs. Carefully timed, we approached the doorway to the St Barbara Monastery, which I would call a nunnery, just as the doors opened at 4pm. Photography was limited, but I was able to get some pictures outside the small chapel.
Outside, we were faced with another set of descending stairs, these of “good stone”, however there was no handrail. At the bottom we met the bus and boarded, whereupon he proceeded to drive back up the hills to bring us to a second nunnery, the St Stephen Monastery. More great vista shots out to the nearby cliffs topped with religious buildings, while the valley below was filled with secular living and industry. We had access to the gardens, with red and white roses blooming, alstroemeria in massive beds. Inside, no photos again, and the place was overwhelmed with student and tourist groups.
Returning to the bus, we rode downhill a bit, and stopped at a “factory” where icons – paintings of the saints – were produced. [During my June 2022 road trip to New England, I’d chanced to be invited to an Orthodox monastery outside Boston where similar images were produced.] I figured this was the opportunity for us to collect memorabilia. Back on the bus, we headed to the Amalia Hotel where I was assigned room 318 at the end of the hall. After a cursory unpack, I headed back to the lobby to get a taxi into Kalabaka. Our guide had mentioned that the local church was the seat of a metropolitan, and hence would be considered a cathedral. I found no other references to validate this presumption.
The Byzantine Church of the Dormition of Virgin Mary in the old town was easy to spot with its 4-story stone belltower sitting at the bottom of the cliff. Historically, the 10-11th century Orthodox church had been built on the ruins of a early Christian (4-5th century) church, which itself had been built on the site of a temple to the Greek god Apollo.
Solid stone exterior walls, the single-story building’s interior walls are covered with murals. In the center of the nave is a free-standing pulpit with stairs at either end, a remanent of the earlier church (and apparently unique in the world.) Masterfully carved, the iconostasis fills the eastern end from floor to ceiling and across the opening.
Pleased to have visited a significant religious site, albeit not a cathedral, I had the waiting taxi drop me in the center of Kalambaka (alternate spelling). My timing had been impeccable, as I’d had the church mostly to myself between the bus tour groups before and after me. (One group’s guide had called it a cathedral, but I still don’t think so.) After paying the driver with my last 20€, I walked down the street to the ATM and replenished my cash. Crossing the street, I picked up two pairs of readers at the pharmacy (despite my having spares somewhere in my luggage) to replace my active pair which had a wonky stem. The pharmacist, in response to my inquiry about dining, sent me down the street to the town square and the Restaurant Meteora.
Wanting to eat Greek regional food, I started with the Arabian Tabbouleh (got me greens) followed by the lamb cooked in wine. Glass of the house rosé (Muscat of Hambourg) and red, a Greek blend of syrah and merlot, went with the bottle of water. I was seated outside, an early diner, and didn’t have to deal with cigarette smokers. A good meal, I was pleasantly filled and satisfied. When paying the check, I was advised a taxi was just up the street, and it turned out I had the same driver as earlier.
Back at the Amalia, once on WiFi, I checked the group chat. Most had opted to visit the hotel’s buffet at 7, although Clover had wished to go into town. (You snooze; you lose.) We had an early start, so I returned to my room to clear my phone and get horizontal.
Day 59 Corfu I (Tour Day 5)
Six-thirty alarm had both my big roller and me out the door by 7 and heading to the dining room for breakfast. A very large room, there were too many tour groups staying at the Amalia so mass confusion reigned. After eating, I returned to the room (and took pictures of the room and the view) and was downstairs with the small roller at 7:45. We boarded and were away by 8!
Mountains and valleys filled the views outside the moving bus. We passed through a good number of tunnels in the Pindus Mountains, took a break for iced coffee and kataifi after 90 minutes, and met up with a passing rain shower. Just after 11 we arrived at the port of Igoumenitsa, waiting less than a half hour for the bus to be allowed to board the ferry.
Heading northwest across the Corfu Channel (a northern part of the Ionian Sea), the sun broke through the clouds and the sea was relatively calm. I had the Nikon with me up on the top deck, enjoying the breeze and fresh air, getting a few shots of the crossing. The Old Fortress of Corfu, built atop the rocky outcrop jutting into the sea, greeted us before we turned into the docks. Three cruise ships were in port.
We walked off the ship and waited on the side for the bus to roll off the ferry. After boarding, the bus headed south through winding narrow streets to our hotel, the Corfu Holiday Palace. An elegant facility, there was a pool above, and stairs to the beach below; the local airport was a bit further south. Rooms had balconies, and there was a decent bar in the lobby. After getting my key, I had a drink of water from the tap before discovering the sign in the room (not by the faucet) that advised the water wasn’t for drinking.
The afternoon was unscheduled, so I checked with the reception desk and took their shuttle into town (at 20€.) Fighter jets roared overhead, and some of the locals were dressing in traditional attire. The driver told me that it was a holiday, the anniversary of the joining of Corfu to the Kingdom of Greece on 21 May 1864. That should have been sufficient warning to me, as I was heading into town to visit the two cathedrals. Both were closed, so outside shots only.
As I’d been in Corfu City on the cruise, I just decided to wander a bit. Narrow alleys used by motorbikes and pedestrians, blooming jacaranda trees and bushes of bougainvillea kept me enjoying the stroll. I headed towards the waterfront, and strolled, looking for an open bodega where I might get bottles of water. Finally, about half way back to the hotel, I collected 6 large bottles and then began my search for a taxi. Fortunately, one rolled by in the opposite direction, and the pleasant gentleman pointed out features of the Kanoni peninsula. I found the tour group to be quite distant from the old town/city.
Dinner was included and scheduled at the hotel for 7pm, with welcome cocktails at 6:30. The cocktail was ouzo with OJ, and Georgia expounded on the plans for the following day. The buffet was diverse and extensive, with too many choices. From the pictures, it looks like we were all having a good time, enjoying the buffet. Once we broke up, I headed to my room and sat on the balcony, snapping a few sunset shots.
Day 60 Corfu 2 (Tour day 6)
I was up at 7, breakfast was less crowded or hectic, with similar choices to the previous lodgings. After grabbing my camera and sack, I joined the group to board the bus for the brief trip to the Archilleion Palace with our local guide Mary. Corfu residence of the Austro-Hungarian royalty, our guide explained its subsequent life as a casino.
Having been abandoned, it is now being restored, and hence the interior wasn’t open to visitors. We walked around the building, through the grounds and gardens, admiring the many statues and friezes. Enlarged photos of the Empress Elizabeth of Austria, the force behind the palace, fill exterior walls. More photos can be found here.
With our early start, we’d been first on the grounds, and therefore ahead of several busloads which began dropping tourists off as we boarded our bus. Backtracking the National Road, our next stop was Lazaris Distillery. In addition to distilling alcoholic beverages, they offer artisanal sweets, including “Turkish delights”. The aperitifs were made with kumquats, anise and other fruits, as were the confections. Samples of the sweets ranged throughout the selling floor, and several sampling tastes of flavored gin were offered. I headed out with a small bottle of Merlin gin and a box of “delights”.
Back on the bus, we continued north towards the city. Parking alongside the park opposite the bastion of the Old Fortress, I had a sense of déjà vu – the cruise ship excursion had started its visit to the old city from the same location. Looking down at the channel/moat that separates the city from the fortress, small craft vessels lined the walls and the banks. We crossed into Spianada Square where Mary explained the history of Corfu, pointing out the Asian Art Museum (which I’d visited) to the north, having been the British headquarters during its occupation.
With two hours to sightsee, I decided to try the cathedrals again. Google Maps said the Roman Catholic was closed, so I headed to the Holy Metropolitan Church of the Virgin Mary Spilaiotissa, Saint Blaise and Saint Theodora Augusta / Ιερός Μητροπολιτικός Ναός Υπεραγίας Θεοτόκου Σπηλαιωτίσσης, Αγίου Βλασίου και Αγίας Θεοδώρας.

The Orthodox cathedral was open, however, no photography allowed, but I got one of the nave. As my return to the rendezvous point would take me by the second cathedral, I headed back to the Dimarchiou Square. There, the front door was open to the Cathedral of Saints Jacob and Christopher / Καθολικός Μητροπολιτικός Ναός Αγίων Ιακώβου και Χριστοφόρου (Ντόμος). The exterior façade is a warm cream which could use a powerwashing, three sets of tall windows above the central entrance. Inside, a lighter ivory covers the walls rising up to a wooden beam vault 10m above.

Through whitewashed curved arches off the nave, chapels held icons and reliquaries. To the left of the crucifix over the back altar was the banner I sought, honoring the cathedral’s patron saints of Sts James (Major) and Christopher.
Subsequently, I found a hard-backed icon. Leaving the church, I found a t-shirt shop and got one with Achilles blazed across the front. Then as I reached the rendezvous well in advance, I stopped to have a draft Eza beer.
A sample fo pictures taken in downtown Corfu City during the tour break:
I had noted ruins as the road approached the hotel, so on our return I asked to be dropped off. A narrow church, its side stone walls still standing, had a full opening at the entrance and a partial curved apse opposite. Surrounded by a walkway and serious fencing, I was able to circumnavigate the Paleopolis Basilica of Saint Kerkyra, which dates to the 5th Christian century. I found it fascinating and relaxing, out from the hustle and bustle of the tourism of Corfu.
Checking Maps, I had more than 2 kilometers to walk to get back to the Holiday Palace. Brilliant weather, it was about 3:30 and I wasn’t joining the group for the optional dinner (plate smashing, ethnic dancing.) I figured to find a local place on my way and have a light supper. The stroll took me past some grand entrances to properties hidden behind dense foliage, and eventually to the hotel’s entrance. After freshening up and pushing over a liter of water into me, I walked back to the road. I continued a bit further south, finding Captain George Family Restaurant. There I had a bottle of red ale and a portion of moussaka with a Greek salad. I enjoyed the potato and eggplant, but wished for more bechamel sauce. An hour later, from my balcony, I enjoyed a brilliant sunset looking out over Pontikonisi Beach.
Day 61 To Delphi (Tour day 7)
After a light breakfast, the group reboarded the bus and headed to the ferry port. The bus rolled onto the ferry at 9:30, and we reached Igoumentsa at 11. Heading south along the coast, we crossed to the island and town of Lefkada, arriving about 1:30. Georgia led us into town and gave a brief comment before giving us 2 hours to roam (and get lunch for ourselves.) [Observation: the unimaginative group members needed to be told where to go and what to eat, completely lacking any sense of adventure.] I strolled the main marketing streets, poking into shops, including the bakery Georgia had recommended without getting anything. Since I’d lost a camera battery, I looked for a photo shop (no batteries) and wound up getting a polo shirt in one establishment.
After about an hour of wandering Lefkada, I figured I needed to get some sustenance, and began looking at eateries. La Queseria caught my eye – they served a variety of wines with “bites”. Relaxing at a small table on the sidewalk, I tasted 3 glasses of dry red wine (Methea from Vryniotis, a fresh blend from Idaia, and Inari from Parparoussi) while nibbling on two cheese samples, grapes and some Italian salami.
Back to the port and the bus rendezvous point three-quarters of an hour later, we boarded and began the 3+ hour trip. Approaching the Gulf of Corinth, the 4-tier cable-stayed bridge Rio - Antirio Bridge Charilaos Trikoupis came into view– a style that always thrills me to see - crossed to Patras. We were just beyond the half way point and made a rest break stop. It seemed the highlight was the bakery counter, as others purchased cookies and bottles of water.
Back to the bus, it was another 2 hours before we reached another Amalia Hotel, this in Delphi. All of us were sent to the fourth floor, collecting our bags in the hallway and entering the assigned rooms. Mine was room 466, which had a king bed with plenty of floor space, a nice view out to the sea from the balcony, and a tub in the bath. Dinner was a hotel buffet at 8pm, where I found the salad table fair and the entrée choices poor. Desserts were uninspiring. I sat with Maxine, Georgia, Carmen and Gail, which made for a pleasant time, and Sherraine and Clover joined us as Maxine left. Apparently, Georgia had talked to Sherraine, who had asked to join me on my day trip to Chania on Crete, putting some fear into her thought process.
Heading to the room, I found that the hotel has rather thin walls, as I was hearing conversations both in the hallways and neighboring rooms. I guess as a solo, I’m content with silence (and prefer it), so others acting without regard in a hotel can be annoying. The alarm was set for a more reasonable rising, as we had a later start in the morning.
Day 62 Delphi; to Athens (Tour day 8)
After the buffet breakfast, we boarded the bus where we met George, our local guide. Upon arriving at the archeological site in Delphi, it became evident that George didn’t know how to effectively use the Whisper audio devices that we’d been using at previous sites, and he resisted any change or increased volume. The site is quite interesting, albeit I saw it mostly unguided: I noted that I felt he didn’t make an effort.
Both George and Georgina downplayed the museum, which I found much more informative and interesting than “the tour”. The museum and the actual site were both more crowded than I prefer, but tourist season had begun and most groups had similar schedules. Reviewing my pictures, I managed to avoid including people in many of my photos, belying that observation. I did climb to view the amphitheater, but the climb to the upper sites looked too daunting for me. Informative signage was in Greek, English and French.
This link will bring you to a portion of the 200 photos I took in the museum and on the site.
We were back on the bus for a brief ride to the nearest town Arachova – offering a shopping opportunity after a lunch at Taverna Omfalos. I had tzatziki to start, the rolled eggplant and feta, and the featured wild boar. Dessert of baklava with strawberries and vanilla ice cream finished the meal. Leaving the taverna, we walked the main street to the west, stopping at shops and observing the buildings and alleys that covered the hillside. At the far end of town, the group descended into a buying frenzy at a shop offering t-shirts, rugs, all kinds of souvenirs.
Exiting with filled shopping bags, we boarded the waiting bus and began the two-and-a-half-hour journey to Athens. Just before 5pm, we offloaded with our luggage at a square and self-portaged to at the NLH Kerameikos Hotel. Once Georgia checked us in, we were sent to our rooms. (NLH is neighborhood lifestyle hotel, and Kerameikos is an archeological site in Athens.) Given room 206, it took a while to get up two flights, as the hotel only has two two-person (small) lifts. My suggestion to send the bags up and climb the stairs wasn’t adopted, which might have speeded things up a bit. (Yes, I was starting to get aggravated with several of the group.)
The room has a king bed, a narrow balcony overlooking a tree-shaded space. The tiny shower had a rainfall head above and a hand spray, and plenty of surface for toiletries. A mini-frig, safe, and kettle were provided amenities, but the floor space was minimal, the shelves were awkwardly placed, and the large bag stayed upright in a corner.
We’d been left on our own for the evening, so I pulled up my Google Maps to research and checked for the four Athenian cathedrals. Within 2 kilometers of walking, I would be able to visit three that day. Of course, incapable of following a map, I headed in the wrong directions, and wound up visiting the orthodox Holy Church of the Holy Trinity at Kerameikos / Ιερός Ναός Αγίας Τριάδος. A large, lovely church, I was impressed by the plethora of icons in the murals on the walls, arches and columns. After the 10-minute visit, I passed by the Kerameikos archeological site and realized I was turned around.
Wending my way, I soon came to the Armenian Orthodox Cathedral of Saint Gregory the Illuminator / Άγιος Γρηγόριος Φωτιστής. A smaller single-dome building, it was unfortunately closed.

Figuring the Greek Orthodox Cathedral would also be closed, and with Saturday evening Mass soon to begin at the cathedral, I decided to head that way. Passing Klaftmonos Square, I crossed Stadiou (a major street through the city) and a block later I was on Panepistimicu, across from the nineteenth century cathedral.
The Holy Catholic Cathedral of Saint Denis the Areopagite / Καθολικός Καθεδρικός Ναός Αγίου Διονυσίου Αρεοπαγίτη sits high on a corner down the street from the Academy of Athens. Set back from the sidewalk, a wrought-iron fence directs pedestrian flow through a central gate. A portico protects the entry doors from the elements.

I was late for the beginning of the English-language Mass, but I slipped into a pew and stayed until the end. While a concert was being set up in the nave, I was able to scurry around and get the few photographs I like to capture.
Leaving about 8pm, I passed the Academy, with the Lycabettus Hill rising behind it. Several more buildings caught my eye, but I was tiring, and not feeling particularly hungry. Back to the room, I prepared for the early start in the morning, did a few emails and read a bit before heading to bed.

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