Monday was my last morning in Vancouver (at least for a week plus.) When leaving the hotel, rather than getting the baggage onto a bus and then pulling/pushing it down Main Street through the indigent, I opted for a Lyft.
At the station, I checked in the larger bag, taking the smaller roller and my several take-away meals across the street to the park. Under my hat in the sun, I had lunch. After about an hour I returned to the station and queued up, only to find I was on the Sleeper Plus and Prestige classes line. I was directed over to the “walk on’s” or Economy class line, a group of about 50. At 2:30 this smaller group were walked down a different platform where 4 cars were attached to the front locomotive. The baggage car was first, then the 2 cars for the economy passengers, and one of which had an observation dome and snack bar. Those with sleeping compartments were walked or golf cart’d to the other 15 cars on a neighboring track. When the train started up, our cars headed out first, and were then backed into the sleepers when they were joined up. A pair of locomotives were at the rear.
To avoid confusion, there are two passenger rail companies offering travel through the Canadian Rockies Rocky Mountaineer (Vancouver to/from Banff/Jasper/Moab UT) and VIARail (Vancouver to/from Toronto). The former is single deluxe class and loaded with amenities, while the latter has economy and luxe options. I had elected to go VIARail, and I would be on the train for a scheduled 28 hours from Vancouver to Edmonton. Both rail services do not own the actual rails and may be shifted to sidings for freight trains which have priority.
Climbing aboard with the small roller, I chose my seat on the starboard side, facing in the main direction of transit. In the second car, a rather loud group of 6 older women had settled in, as they were going all the way to Toronto. There were perhaps fewer than a dozen in my car, spread throughout. The better views out the window were primarily on my side for the first 5½ hours, and 80 minutes later we were waiting on a siding outside Lytton. The rails and the TransCanada Highway had been following the Fraser River. At Lytton, the paths switched to run alongside the Yellowhead Highway (Canada 5) and the Thompson River, and then the North Thompson River to Gosnell Bridge just north of Lempiere. I discovered, as I went to change the time zone in my Nikon camera that all my pictures in BC had been on Alaskan time – I thought I changed it the last day on the ship. At least the next batch would be on Mountain time, a change which occurred when we crossed the Continental Divide (and border between BC and Alberta), about 10 miles west of Jasper.
My pictures were a combination of both phone and Nikon, as I tried to deal with reflections on the dual-pane windows. The outside light began to fade about 9pm, but I had put the camera down about 6:30pm, and picking it up again at 9am the following morning while the camera has shots from 5:30am.
The next notes I made were at 2:40am (Tuesday), approximately 11+ hours into the journey. I guessed we’d been relegated to sidings for about 90 minutes total. We were in the Kamloops North Station. We had a longer scheduled stop in Kamloops to fuel and change engineers. Outside it was dark, a mild overcast despite the near full moon. I exited the train to get fresh air, while most of the train was attempting to sleep. I noted two tank trucks to the rear, one forward. There are 2 cathedrals in Kamloops, and I plotted out that, with a taxi, I could just about squeeze in a photo run into the planned 30-minute stop. But there were no taxis evident, and we pulled out promptly in 30 minutes.
My next note was that we were still in BC, in Pyramid Falls at 8:15am, times noted per the phone., and probably at a siding. Shortly after 1pm we pulled into Jasper. One of my compartment companions left us, and we were told that we’d have an hour (originally scheduled 2+) in which to explore the town. I got off the train, walked around the bigger block and slipped into the Jasper Brewing Company.
While Dexter pulled the 6 samples for my flight, I wandered in back to get a few shots of the brewery facilities. My tastes were Rockhopper IPA, Jasper the Bear ale, Crisp pilsner, 6060 stout, Jasper Trail Session IPA and Pride: Proud and Free lager. I made it back with minutes to spare.
Two hours later we had stopped in Hinton to drop off passengers, the shower which had greeted us as we left the Jasper National Park and hit the flatlands cleaning the air. Out the window I saw elk, an eagle’s nest and a beaver dam.
The weather was turning grim, very gray and gloomy. I ate my leftover pizza, took meds, observing that the deciduous trees were just beginning to bud. We were told another 4 hours until Edmonton.
However, we pulled into Edmonton at 11pm. The station is well outside the city proper, and once the luggage had been unloaded, folks were grabbing a taxi when one appeared. I called for a Lyft and invited another solo to ride with me as we both were heading to the Days Inn downtown. Steve was a tall Australian; he got to the counter ahead of me. After getting my room key, I headed up the lift, unpacked minimally, took a shower and was in bed just after midnight.
Wednesday 22 May I woke up at 10. Edmonton is a large spread-out city, with a rectilinear grid of numbered streets and avenues. Downtown sits on the butte north of the North Saskatchewan River. My research had 7 cathedral locations for me to visit, so I started out walking west on Jasper Avenue to St Joseph’s Cathedral Basilica. At the corner of 113th Street, a patio at the top of stairs rested in front of three arches with glass and wood double doors facing east. Mock towers set on either side of the building rise to half the height of the 3-4 story nave, all covered with cream sandstone brick facing. A peal of three bells is visible from the north corner.
Entering the doors of St Joseph’s, a narthex presents a wide staircase of twelves steps to double doors into the nave. The nave has fixed wooden pews off the center aisle, with the side aisles under an arch-separating colonnade where traditional confessionals stand. The mosaic stations are mounted on the support columns, and darker stone bricks face the walls above, with narrow stained glass in the clerestory. Embossed wooden beams fill the ribbed vault.
At the altar the building widens on either side under the arches with more pews, and behind is the sacramental tabernacle, a chapel to Our Lady of Guadalupe and the Sacristy, which is behind the wall of organ pipes and the raised wooden cathedra. The stained-glass windows reflect its mid-century origins, having opened in 1963. It is the only basilica in western Canada.
Stepping out and returning to Jasper Avenue, I was greeted by a large mural on a tall apartment building: it featured a bald eagle, the sun, mountains and a river, and a bear. It seemed the attention of public art extended beyond southwest BC. Seeing a Metro station, I picked up a pass. Three blocks beyond 106th Street where my lodgings were, I turned south two blocks to All Saints Anglican Cathedral. A red brick three story building, its low-profile entry is through a wide two-story reception area-like space, with offices up a flight of stairs in a high-rise senior housing complex.
After I took my outside pictures, noting the solid south face, I buzzed the office and pleaded my case to the worker there. He graciously admitted me into the nave, giving me a short 3-minute history. Despite the solid south wall, which is scheduled to be replaced with windows, the church is more airy and light that St Joseph’s, perhaps due to its lower vault and lacking the side arcades. Fixed wooden pews line the center aisle, the chancel up three steps with narrowing side walls.
The north wall contains a series of five-panel stained-glass depiction of scenes from Christ’s ministry, while the back wall has a triptych of Sts Mary and John bracketing the ascended Christ. The seven Apocalypse Banners hang on the south wall. The bishop’s crosier and throne are within the quire, off to the left side behind a wooden altar rail hung with needlework kneelers.
When advising the office that I was leaving, he invited me back to Evensong. The presiding bishop would be preaching that evening, and a choir would be participating. Jumping on a bus to go the next kilometer and a half, I wound up going south across the river to Pioneers Cabin, requiring me to back track.
The Russian Orthodox Cathedral of St Barbara was actually just down Jasper at 96th Street. It borders on the Louise McKinney Riverfront Park, which permits St Barbara’s to be flooded with light. Small silver-chrome domes rise above the corners of the nave, with a much larger lantern dome over the crossing and altar.
Ocher bricks face the exterior of the cathedral, and the double doors at the top of 10 steps was locked. A three-bell carillon sits separated to the south. Previous to becoming the cathedral in 1959, it had been the site of a Russian Greek Catholic Orthodox church.
Taking the opportunity to enjoy the lookout view, I crossed into the park and viewed Edmonton spreading south beyond the winding river. Next on my list was the Ukrainian Orthodox cathedral. I took a bus towards Kingsway Mall, passing a cathedral I’d need to return to. From the transit center serving both the mall and the Royal Alexandria Hospital, it was a half kilometer to St John’s Cathedral. At the corner of 110 Avenue NW and 107 Street NW, the pinkish brick building faces west.
Three black capped onion lantern domes stand at the front corners and over the center. Seven and six steps rise up from the plaza out front. Icons bracket the pairs of dark double doors, which were locked when I visited.
However, down 110 Avenue was the office, museum and Ukrainian cultural center. At the suggestion of a neighbor who approached me while in front, I walked in and was granted access to the nave. Without much ornamentation, the gently curved vault and the interior of the central dome are painted flat white.
Stained-glass windows, in shades of blue-violets and red-oranges gave a mauve tint to the unlit space. The cathedra, an armchair draped in red, sat on a small platform off to the side. The altar table sat at the main aisle, down three steps from the ornate iconostasis. I did a cursory check of the museum on my way out.
Backtracking to the transit center, I caught the bus back down 97th Street. Surrounded by cast iron fencing with square brick stanchions, St Josephat’s Ukrainian Catholic Cathedral sat back, up 14 steps. A dark red brick facing, there are 8 white Doric columns on the porch, offering cover for the three doors.
Seven black double domes rise above their cupolas. Able to enter the grounds, I learned of the building’s history (a Municipal Historic Resource, it “is one of Edmonton’s most beautiful and architecturally significant churches”) before I began checking doors. I struck gold in the office, where the accountant had 10-15 minutes to escort me into the cathedral.
With the light from the central dome’s windows, the orange and pink of its decorations gave a warm glow. Every surface seemed adorned, with periwinkle, teal, coral and moss prevalent. Icons were surrounded with gold frames, the iconostasis bearing many of them as it filled an arch. Wooden pews filled the floor, and stained-glass filled the arched window openings. I was directed to the rear loft, for an up-close view of the murals and a great view of the nave floor. A replica of the Shroud of Turin was displayed in one arm of the transept.
At three in the afternoon, I was done for the day. I’d been to five cathedrals, getting into four! I caught a wrong bus, going one stop too far, so returned to the hotel by metro. After backing up my photos, I left the camera and headed to All Saint’s for Evensong. On the way I ordered a shake and grilled cheese, but the sandwich took more than 15 minutes, so I left with only the shake. I slipped into a pew and along with about 40 participants, we watched the bishop, the primate, rector and choir process in. I loved the music, as the choir of about a dozen and the organist filled the nave with glorious sound. Bishop Linda Carol Nicholls, the Canadian Primate, gave a sermon of hope as the church elders would be meeting to discuss business for the coming year. Edmonton Bishop Stephen London presided – he’s a big guy! The organ postlude was breathtaking, and the church remained still until it concluded. I was invited to the reception, getting a chance to talk about Cathedrals to the Glory of God to several.
On my way to the Inn I stopped at 1905 Pub, which was around the corner from my digs. Fairly empty (Panther-Rangers hockey that evening), I was able to catch up in my journal over a house lager, and then tackled a Frank’s Burger: Frank’s hot sauce, jalapenos, banana peppers, sauteed onions, mozzarella, cheddar, lettuce, pickle and chipotle mayonnaise – the dressings of the burger on a bun. It came with a house salad. The burger arrived well done, but was meaty, large and tasty. Covered in cheese and peppers, it was truly a messy meal. Then it was off to email, reading and bed.
Thursday was another cool, slightly overcast day. I had two more cathedrals/churches to visit, both well outside the downtown core of Edmonton. Leaving on the underground, the Capitol line, a bit after 10, I rode out to the northeast to the Coliseum station, switching to a #53 bus for a 10-minute ride. Street work was underway on 127th Avenue NW. St Vladimir’s Russian Orthodox Church stands at the corner behind a metal picket fence. Clad in white siding, steps lead up to a portico protecting the front entrance. Facing south, there is a short tower topped with a gold cross on the west corner. The fence gate was locked and there were no breaks along 68th Street NW.
While my research had indicated that it was Russian Orthodox Abroad affiliated and might have been a metropolitan’s seat, there is no indication on the building or the church’s site. It is now affiliated with the Synod of the Church of Genuine Orthodox Christians of Greece, having not accepted the union of the two Russian Orthodox churches in 2007.[July update: while writing this report, I made a call to St Vladimir’s after reading on their web. I received a call back from the priest’s wife, during which she confirmed it had been a ROCOR cathedral in the mid twentieth century after being founded by the patriarch Archbishop Iaosaph who was being raised to sainthood in a week’s time.]
Next on my list was nearly 3km away, so I used that Metro Pass to take two busses to All Saints Orthodox Cathedral on 118 Avenue NW. Set back behind a chain-link fence on a lot running the width of a short block, the building is clad in white siding with black trim and roof, and has a single gold onion dome surmounted with an orthodox cross.
As with St Vladimir’s, the building was closed and I could raise no one to allow me to visit the interior. Having visited the 7 churches on my list, I had completed my goals in Edmonton and took the bus back into town on a half hour ride.
The bus dropped me on Jasper just down 106th Street from my lodgings. Querying Maps, I searched for breweries nearby in downtown. After admiring a small pocket park where metal objects had been incorporated into bicycle stands (complete with tires and handlebars), I walked past a closed Yellowhead Brewing Company. Across an empty fenced-off plaza, I spotted Campiō Brewing with a karaoke blow-up on its roof.
Noontime, it is a popular venue, and I found a small high-top where I requested a 6-sample flight along with a Detriot deep dish pizza called La Casa Nostra (without the mushrooms.) My tastes were Birrifico Italian pilsner, AARCS (Alberta Animal Rescue Crew) Tail Chaser Easy ale, Once in Oaxaca Prickly Pear Horchata sour, Edmontosaurus barrel-aged tart fruit ale, Czech Amber lager, and Darkness Rises coffee stout.
The pizza components are pepperoni, seasoned beef, mona mushrooms, pickled jalapeños, red onion and dusted with grana Padano, but I passed on mushrooms. My notes indicate I was full with just a third of the pizza, and that the Oaxaca was the biggest surprise for the beers. Before leaving, I stuck my head into the brewery facilities, and chuckled at their t-shirt offering.
After that, and until dinnertime, I have no idea what I did. Nothing in my notes and no more pictures. I’ll make a guess part of the time may have been in the room, preparing/packing for my next change of place, and possibly a nap and some reading. Once I felt hungry, because the sun was setting close to 9:30pm, I searched for dining options nearby, and found a wine and tapas bar not too far from the Days Inn. Tzin is tiny, maybe 20-feet by 60-feet with 8 tables; burgundy-brown walls with exposed duct work. They seated me at the bar, and I ordered a glass of wine. (Yes, beer’d out.) The wine was Evodia. I started with a salad: roasted beets, whipped cheddar, cayenne maple glazed walnuts, sun dried cherries, cherry vinaigrette, arugula. Yellow beets raised my eyebrows; the walnuts were soft but the entire dish was tasty. The I asked for their signature tapa, The Bacon: maple balsamic apple compote, apple mayonnaise, crostini, Calvados gastrique. It was delicious – the sauce was a treat. Finger food, I was licking my fingers and then swiping them on the board for more!
Friday morning I got up and out, heading to the nearby Tim Horton’s. I’d heard much from my Canadian neighbors and fellow travelers that I had to have their coffee. So I figured I’d also get breakfast. Well, to my mind, it’s a glorified McDonalds – queues of people to order, then standing off to the side waiting for your order. Coffee from one station, food delivered in paper bags, wrapped. My decaf coffee was fair, didn’t come with milk and the counter person begrudgingly gave me a single serving plastic half&half. The bacon-sausage-egg muffin was true fast food. I left unimpressed.
When I got back to the Days Inn, I realized I’d left my day pack on the chair – I’d removed it, placed my jacket over it, and didn’t see the dark bag when I dressed to leave. Amazingly, it was still there when I got back, my passport and journal untouched. Truly blessed. I checked out of the lodgings and walked the several blocks to the bus station. I’d picked the Days Inn as it was close to this depot, which turned out to be across from the Anglican cathedral.
I got there at 11, checked in, and the driver began loading the luggage 45 minutes later. At noon, on time, we left with 14 passengers. First stop was the airport, about half an hour due south of downtown, for another half dozen. We made a rest stop 90 minutes later in Red Deer, and then continued south on Canada 2. There were several slowdowns on the highway due to accidents and a lane closure.
After stops north of Calgary, first at the airport then near Renfrew, we arrived in downtown Calgary. From that depot, I was 5 blocks from the Downtown Ramada Plaza Inn.
The Ramada booked me into room 626, down at the end of a hall looking south. It had 2 beds but no safe. A refrigerator got my take-away boxes, and I unpacked the toiletries. Since I was there for only 2 nights, I didn’t remove much from the big roller bag. Ready to head out and explore, I went back out into the slight drizzle. Maps had shown me that there were several breweries in downtown, south of my center city location. East on 8th Avenue SW a block and a half to 5th Street, I turned south, crossing 9th and 10th Avenues and passing under the railroad tracks that ran between them. I took a few skyline shots as I walked.
Last Best Brewing and Distillery occupies the corner at 11th Avenue. A huge venue, I found a seat at the bar, facing a column and a beer menu. The busty young blonde took my order for a 6-taste sampler and a Little Italy charcuterie plate. The beer board with 6 rather full short glasses arrived: Foxy Peanut Butter brown, Dirty Bird Black lager, Baby Face dry-hopped sour, Last Best IPA, Tokyo Drift IPA and Kindred 1957 porter. The food appeared soon after: spicy capicola, pepperoni, salami, prosciutto, banana peppers, Swiss cheese, herbed aioli.
Having spent 90 minutes observing the swinging crowd, filling up on beer and cold cuts, it was still early and rather light out. I decided to walk a bit, heading towards where 3 more breweries were supposed to be. My route took me by Central Memorial Park before I strolled into 33 Acres Brewing Company Calgary. (They also have brewing in Vancouver.)
Entering, the ground floor is the production area for the brewery. Up a flight of stairs, the balcony overlooks the tall steel tanks, with small tables along the walls and two bench tables hosting groups of six. I’d ordered downstairs, maneuvering my tray with 4 samples up to a small table near the corner. My choices were a doppelbock, Mezcal Gose, Fluffy Cloudy Hazy IPA, and 33 Acres of Darkness, a Schwarzbier. No food, no TVs, just serious tasting and talking with friends. In the corner was a couple (he Dutch, she Canadian), their 5-year-old son, and an artist friend. We adults had a great conversation, hitting of subjects as broad as churches, art, travel, technology, and child-rearing.
Saturday the 25th had me out, back on the streets by 9:30. My research had me heading to the Roman Catholic cathedral first, of two in this large city of one and a third million, largest in Alberta. I began my 1.7km walk walking west and south through the street grid of downtown Calgary. In the bright morning sunlight, the Central Memorial Park glowed, with spring bulbs blooming in patches of manicured lawn and shaped evergreens. Public art, in the form of murals and sculpture blended into the beauty of a cherry tree in blossom.
Between 18th and 19th Avenues SW along 1st Street SW, St Mary’s Cathedral occupies a block with the rectory, office and school. Facing north, the façade of the body of the building appears to be about 40-feet tall, with a 5-meter statue of the Virgin Mary placed above the single double-door entry. Rising above that entry is a fluted tower surmounted by a cross. The exterior of the ~175-foot-long building is red brick, with the windows framed in sandstone. The building was locked, but a neighborly woman advised that a wedding was scheduled for noon, and that I should be able to get in then. I sat in the shade on a stoop for about a half hour, before finding the side door had been unlocked.
A bright and airy vault, an inverted boat hull, white with thick wooden beams allows five three-panel stained-glass windows to line the clerestory level admitting light. At the south end, within an arch, the altar and tabernacle stand under a hanging crucifix. A five-panel window depicts the ascending Christ. Consecrated in 1957, the windows and many mosaic decorations look very mid-twentieth century, albeit recent additions are also on the walls. Checking with staff, there was no cathedra visible, as the bishop uses the celebrant’s chair when officiating at Mass. Apparently, his formal (ornate) throne was being repaired, in the basement. Reflecting the sanctuary, the organ loft is in an arch, raised above the narthex.
Leaving St Mary’s, rather than follow Maps’ suggestion, I walked up Centre Street S, the dividing line for east and west Calgary. When I reached 10th Avenue, Centre didn’t continue due to the railroad tracks, so I continued to First Street SE. This brought me by Alberta Boots, a workshop and retail space with beautiful handcrafted boots on display and for sale. (But do I really need boots in Florida?)
Reaching Olympic Plaza and 7th Avenue SE, the Cathedral Church of the Redeemer has a wide plaza to its south, lined with blooming cherry trees. From the street level, it is deceptively small – the Maps overview reveals a sizable nave with a rounded apse at the east end. It was locked, which I’ve come to expect of Episcopal and Anglican churches on Saturdays. Its entrance is through a door on the south plaza in the west corner. Its exterior is pink Paskapoo sandstone, built in 1905, originally as a pro-cathedral. I was surprised there was no red entry door, a tradition I’ve observed in the US and the UK.
Just after noon, I had booked a Walking Tour of Calgary through Viator beginning at 2pm. With nearly two hours free, I headed west on Seventh and slipped into Palomino Smokehouse for lunch. A wide open space, I suspect the office work crowd filled it weekdays, but I was one of less than a dozen diners that Saturday. Ready for comfort food, I ordered the smoked meatloaf with garlic fries (extra crispy) and smoked pit beans, and an 88 HiFi Hazy IPA.
A pair of emails arrived while I relaxed at Palomino. The rendezvous point was 1-2 blocks away, and Viator gave a simple map and brief outline of the 3-hour walk by a Toonie Tours guide. Toonie Tours also sent a message with similar information and a reminder that the guide should be tipped and ended with a suggested amount!
At time (actually a bit early), I watched as the group of 8 slowly gathered. Our guide was Jamie, a local 23yo architecture graduate. Last to join us were a pair with service dogs: they were sight-limited and hailed from Edmonton. This was not what Jamie had expected, so he was briefly flustered trying to adjust his tour for their impairment. Unfortunately for the other half dozen in the group, he focused solely on them, only pausing occasionally for the three women plastic surgeons from South America and me, as we walked slower than the dogs and the guide. There was also a woman from Toronto whose dog didn’t react well to the male guide dog. Due to the late start, the guide’s alternate presentation as well as a demonstration blocking a planned route, we ran “behind schedule”.
When we were able to hear him, Jamie focused his talk on architecture. He was strongly a form-over-function proponent, with negative comments about some of the recent structures which had risen in downtown Calgary. I didn’t hear much about art, society or history as we strolled mainly in the southeastern part of the city. Highlights were the City Library, the Famous Five Foundation and Memorial, cōchu (chocolatier), King Eddy (bar at the King Edward Hotel, where studio recordings - The Aims Project - were made) and the riverside park. At the park, an open-air market was underway, and preparations were underway for the marathon to be run the next day.
Passing through Chinatown, we parted at the plaza in front of The Bow, a crescent shaped skyscraper, and the Wonderland Sculpture there. The doctors had dropped out back along the riverside, while the Toronto woman with her dog had parted almost as soon as we started. I was sorely disappointed and left a much smaller tip than suggested. My review was scathing; albeit using headsets and a microphone, going at a slower pace, and some heads-up regarding the disabilities would probably have helped make it an enjoyable tour.
Checking for somewhere to wet my whistle, I headed to the Four Dogs Taproom, home to the Four Dogs Brewing Company. My flight consisted of 4 samples: Presley, a California IPA; Amber’s Ale; Sasha Rhodesian Red ale; and Zen Great Dane stout. Good brews, great folks at the bar, but they didn’t serve food. About a block away, I popped into Central Restaurants Calgary Beltline, where they were packed. I sat at a high-top near the entry, and sipped on a 33 Acre Hazy Cloud ale. To my surprise, my medium rare steak, mashed potatoes and roasted carrots arrived in a to-go box. I insisted on eating there, got silverware and, once it was heated to an edible temperature, enjoyed my “cow” while in CowTown.
Back in my room, the was a co-ed party going on until 10:45pm, when they left to go out clubbing (I guess.) Unfortunately, the males returned about 3:15am and jabbered loudly until past 4. I expected it to be a brief “good night” so tolerated it; in retrospect, I should have gotten up and called the front desk. Sunday morning after checking out, my plans to walk to the bus pick-up point were modified as it was raining heavily. I waited a bit and then called for a Lyft.
At the Brewster Express depot, I picked up a coffee and a couple of muffins. I got to talking with Rodrigo about travels and traveling – his father is an agricultural consultant so he’d been many places. We were 7 to board, picking up a solo at the second hotel stop and a pair at the third. At the airport seven more joined us and then we were heading west towards Banff. I noted that this bus ride had started by giving me many different vantage points to view the city skyline of Calgary and beyond. In fact, from the airport pickup, the sun was shining off to the west on the snow-capped Rockies
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