Jul 2814 min read

Big Island of Hawai'i

Monday was yet another travel day. Fortunately, I’d allowed an extra day in Vancouver had the train arrived on time. So I was up at 8, out an hour later, Lyft to the Vancouver airport. With a flight just after noon, knowing I would cross into the USA, I wanted to allow sufficient time. Check-in, TSA, Customs and Immigration were a breeze. I headed through the airport to my concourse and decided to have breakfast/lunch at one of the restaurants. Coffee and fish&chips did the trick, and soon I was back to the gate and boarding my United flight to San Francisco.

Lucking out, I had two seats empty on the flight. In SFO I used my second United Club pass and sat in their lounge, enjoying a club sandwich and a Blue Moon. Surprisingly, my second fight left the gate at 5:20, on time, and again I had empty seats next to me.

At Keahole Airport in Kailua-Kona on Hawai’i’s Big Island we were a tad early, but luggage was slow and I wasn’t at the rental car counter until nearly 9. Putting my timeshare into Google Maps, I had a 25-minute ride to the check-in desk at the Kona Hawaiian Resort (KHR.) I lucked out further that they had #41A, a standalone unit with only 3 steps up from the walkway. Adjusting the AC, I was soon down for the count, sleeping well.

Tuesday morning the sun had me up at 6 and I was soon out on my way north to the Hawai’i Forest & Trails Tour Company office. I was well ahead of the 6:50 pickup, and watched as a young couple pulled in driving a convertible Mini Cooper. Newlyweds (just eloped, actually) from Utah, ages 27 and 24 were on a brief honeymoon. Dane, our driver/guide then showed up and we were soon heading north to the Waikoloa Resort. At the shopping center before reaching the resort we met a family of 6 from Atlanta: mother, father, mother’s mother, 18yo male high school graduate, his 16yo brother and 13yo sister.

By 8:30 we nine were upcountry in Kohala, getting helmets, gloves and rigging harnesses. Back into the vehicle, we headed into the forest, bouncing over the red soil.

Once we reached the ziplines, we met Dane’s partner Ezra. There was a stark contrast in the zip staff – Dane big, burly, with a mane of dark hair (married to a Tongan woman, one daughter); while Ezra is shorter, lithe blond with ink and a wicked sense of humor, days away from marrying his fiancée.

We started with an introductory talk, explaining how we’d be spending our morning, and how one zips along the lines. As with all the zip riding I’ve done, save the one-shot ZipRider in Hoonah, the first run is short to expose the newbies to hooking onto the tree, clamping onto the line, and waiting for a go ahead from the far end. Once everyone got comfortable, we were queuing up, with the last to arrive at the platform typically being the first to leave.

Armed with my camera, I got a lot of shots either as my companions left (their backs) or long shots back as they set off towards me. There were 11 ziplines, the last being a pair where we “raced”, 3 rope bridges (which really made me uncomfortable) and we ended by rappelling down about 30-feet. (Not my happiest moment.) I found the forest we were passing through was beautiful.

Once back on the ground we returned to the base and shed our safety gear, and then returned to the van. Continuing out to the ocean, we came to a vista with picnic tables where a bag lunch was provided. I’d requested a turkey club, which came with chips, a cookie and a can of soda. The views off the cliff were spectacular.

Then back to the van where Dane took us from one side of the highway to the other, onto private lands where we had to stop periodically to open (unlock) and close gates. Off to side we saw a wild boar feeding.

Coming around a bend and down a slight rise, Dane parked the vehicle and we hiked down and up a dirt road towards the sound of a stream. A waterfall and small waterhole were in front of us. The two older women and I demurred swimming, but the other 6 and Dane frolicked in the cool water. After about a half hour, the wet ones got dry and changed, and we were soon back on the road heading south. The family were dropped at the resort entrance, saving them the mile walk they’d made in the morning, and then the newlyweds and I were delivered to our vehicles in Kailua-Kona.

On my way back towards the resort, I stopped at the first supermarket I came to and picked up food for the duration. As I drove into KHR, the welcome show was ending – they have a local “auntie” come in to explain some of the Hawai’ian history and culture, discuss leis and hula, and to promote the activities desk for things to do and see while on the Big Island. I unloaded my purchases and began preparing my meal – sauteing sausage and garlic, adding marinara sauce, boiling water for pasta. A box of Nighthawk Black Cabernet Sauvignon would be my beverage of choice for the week while “home”. After a bit of email and reading I was ready to crash.

Wednesday morning I made myself breakfast with what I had on hand. Cutting two slices of the artisanal roasted garlic bread, mixing a scrambled (raw) egg with milk and sugar, the bread was soaked and sauteed to French toast. Without syrup, but hints of garlic, it was different but okay. With the single packet of decaf coffee, I made a pot and then iced it with milk. That was breakfast, and I boiled a few eggs for my midday salads. After backing up my pictures from my two days prior, I headed down to reception to get more coffee packets. While there, they booked me for an owner’s update for Friday morning.

After dropping off the coffee, I took a map and pencil out and began a walk around the resort property. I’d noted that there were a number of plumeria trees, and I wanted to note where the one’s I liked were located. Stopping at reception, they promised to check with the gardeners to see if they might have cuttings for me. I was tasked to check the Hawai’I Agriculture website, to determine what I would have to do to get them off island. I made a salad for lunch. I did email and read, having heard from my LA driver and my cousin. After dinner of open-faced grilled cheese and a glass of wine, I read more but went to sleep early.

Back while I lived in California, I had many occasions to visit Honolulu for work in the early ‘90’s, and then on holiday until I moved to Florida. I’d visited the two “main” cathedrals in downtown, St Andrew’s Episcopal and Our Lady of Peace Roman Catholic. As I prepared my lists of cathedrals I still needed to see, I discovered I’d missed both the Greek Orthodox and the co- cathedrals. This trip aimed to correct that oversight.

Thursday I started early, up at 6 and out before 7 on my way to the airport. I was early enough to be able to get on the earlier flight to Honolulu. From HNL I took 2 city buses into town, determining that there are no transfers, no senior rates, and each ride is $3! My first destination was St Constantine and St Helen Greek Orthodox Cathedral on Lunalilo Street. The bus dropped me on King Street and Ward Avenue, and I walked the several blocks makai (inland) and crossed over the interstate highway. A block Diamondhead (east) brought me to the cathedral on the corner at Victoria Street. Heavy, thick utility lines hung from poles, challenging my camera, plus I was shooting up a rise. With golf-course green lawn rising up from the sidewalk to the front of the south-facing building, half that façade is a solid wall with a gold cross and the eponymous saints rendered in the middle of the 30-foot-high surface. To its left were stairs to a double glass door which was locked.

Exterior, St Constantine and St Helen Greek Orthodox Cathedral, Honolulu — St Constantine and St Helen Greek Orthodox Cathedral, Honolulu

Walking along the Eva (west) side, I found a door with a buzzer. No response. I tried calling the web-sourced office number, the first time falling into voice mail, the second reaching Debbie who said she would be there momentarily. After turning the building alarm off in social hall in the basement, she let me in, giving me a brief history of the parish before returning to the office. Along both the side aisles thirteen full height stained-glass windows depicted saints and patriarchs of the Bible. Icons on circular disks were placed on the band above the windows and the wooden vault ceiling. At the front of the fixed-pew filled nave, three steps led to the sanctuary, with two more steps going up to the iconostasis.

Unusual, the central and side doors to the sacred space was open, giving me a clear view of the altar. Six life-sized icons filled the panels of the iconostasis. On the back wall were mosaics: medallions of the apostles lined a large image of St Helen with her son; standing angels completed the space. The cathedra, made simply of thick dark wood, sat to the right.

I returned to the narthex where more mosaics of religious figures and scenes adorned the walls. I carefully closed and locked the door, and called Debbie to let her know to reset the alarm. She came to send me off, first directing me into the building next door for the facilities.

My next destination was the Catholic co-cathedral. I knew it was in the direction of the airport, but thought it was still in downtown, as the main cathedral is there. So I crossed over the highway again, this time on a pedestrian walkway. I walked by a park, and then several hospital buildings, before figuring out I had to cross back over H-1 again. I should have walked along Magellan Avenue to N School Street, which overlook the interstate. Instead I followed Vineyard Boulevard to Liliha Street, where I got across the thoroughfare a block away from the second cathedral. I arrived after about an hour walking.

The Co-Cathedral of Saint Theresa of the Child Jesus sits on School Street, a good-sized complex of buildings and a school. A contrast with the main cathedral on Bishop Street downtown, there is parking, grounds and natural light inside.

Front facade, Co-Cathedral of Saint Theresa of the Child Jesus , Honolulu — Co-Cathedral of Saint Theresa of the Child Jesus, Honolulu

The downtown cathedral basilica is tightly surrounded by high-rise office buildings, so the co-cathedral permits the diocese to serve a larger number of parishioners, as well as provide religious education. The creamed-colored building’s main entrance faces northwest, rising about 4 stories. A separated belltower rises about twice that on the street side.

As a newer building, the straight lines give the interior a boxy feel. The main aisle advances to a large stone baptismal font placed midway, which is filled with holy water. The aisle continues to the main altar up six stone steps in the sanctuary. Behind against the wall are marble seats, the center being larger and the bishop’s throne. Above is a large crucifix. Along the nave wall, pairs of stained-glass windows fill the rear and the clerestory levels, with a large window depicting St Theresa over the rear loft. Most of the walls are off-white, unadorned.

Finish up taking my pictures, it was 12:15. Checking email, my cousin Laurie had set our rendezvous for about an hour later at the Kahala Mall. While I would have preferred somewhere downtown between the co-cathedral and the airport, she’s the native and the mall was on her way home. Checking Maps, it would have been impossible to walk the 6 miles there, and The Bus (as the local surface transport is known) was just shy of an hour. Instead I opted for a Lyft, which allowed me to grab a bite in the mall’s food court. Eating a pulled pork burrito without a beverage, I chided myself in my notes for not addressing that I was probably quite dehydrated.

We found a table at Starbucks and chatted for about an hour and a half. After catching up on the families, Laurie had some questions about genealogy, and more about travel and retired life. (She, like my youngest brother, was born in 1956.) As we both had been our mother’s executor, she gave me good personal advice that I should advise my beneficiaries of the terms of my will before my nephew has to distribute my estate and trust. (Probably great advice for anyone with a will or trust.) I had a 4:40 flight back to the Big Island, so we parted and I called for a Lyft. Unfortunately, while I was early enough to catch the prior flight, I missed the window as boarding was just called. So I sat and waited, and, inevitably, my flight was late to board and leave. It gave me the opportunity to chat with folks, as I spoke with a couple from northern Virginia, and with an Italian couple from New York City.

Once in Keahole Airport, I looked for the Agriculture guys to see if I could get a few answers. They were all below checking luggage. I had to stroll the parking lot, because I didn’t remember where I’d parked the white Nissan and the lot was full of white sedans. I decided to have a dinner out, heading to Kona Brewing Hawai’I, where I’ve eaten on several visits. Street parking was difficult, putting me half a kilometer away.

Seated at a table indoors, I opted for the daily special with my Koko brown ale. A Caesar salad and a slice of Kohala (pizza) pie appeared. The slice included chopped macadamia nuts, sausage crumble and some gorgonzola. I asked for a slice to go, and they sent me back with a pair! Back at 41A, I backed up the day’s 100 pictures, and read, as the emails were done while waiting on my return flight. I enjoyed the soft bed.

Friday morning, I was up an hour before my Owner’s Update meeting, getting down to Reception 5 minutes before my scheduled pickup time. Fifteen minutes later, they advised the representative was running late. I bailed, cancelling the talk and returned to my suite. I worked through the day’s email (being in Hawai’i, the 6-hour time difference meant email was up to the late afternoon schedule when I finished my morning coffee.) I fixed myself a salad and heated up a slice of pizza for lunch with more iced coffee.

Having received a phone call about the plumeria, I headed to Reception to ask for Elaine. As I was preparing to leave her a note, she arrived and we got into a golf cart. Armed with my map and her cutters, we rolled through the property so I could cut my own. We chatted about cathedrals and plumeria – it turned out she and her husband had a plumeria nursery. Dropping me at my timeshare unit, I took the 10 cuttings out to the lanai. I removed all the leaves and carefully arranged them so the white sap wouldn’t fall on the tile floor or the wooden table top.

Once I completed that task, I decided to walk into town. As I passed the small beach, the surfers were patiently awaiting an adequate wave. I wanted to get a few more Aloha shirts (many of mine are more than 20 years old) and check the Hulihe’e Palace. As I passed St Michael’s church, a farmers market filled the neighboring parking lot. Walking around the lava stone wall to an opening, I browsed the merchandise, finding a pair of shirts. Continuing into town, I checked the ABC store, finding 4 pre-approved (by HI Ag) plumeria cuttings as well as a few chocolate bars. Once I found the Palace closed, I turned around, checking the retail options of the dry side of the road. I found two more shirts and a t-shirt that wanted to come home with me. I walked into St Michael the Archangel Church just to contrast it with the co-cathedral on Oahu.

Needing to wet my whistle before heading back to the resort, I climbed the stairs to Laverne’s Sports Bar to quaff a Hilo red while munching on buffalo wings. I watched a bit of baseball, as it wasn’t Stanley Cup time.

There are no notes or photos from the rest of Friday.

Saturday the seventh was celebrated as King Kamehameha Day, and I walked back into downtown, taking pictures of those parading and those watching. As I approached town, I found folks in chairs with coolers, sitting in the shade, peering north along Ali’I Drive. Soon the marshals in short capes and paniolo cowboys on horseback were marching south, followed by convertible vehicles with elegant women waving. Floats, bands, marching groups all spread aloha along the route. Representative groups from other communities on the Big Island, and from the neighboring islands, participated. As I approached the Hulihe’e Palace, each group stopped for the kahuna’s blessing. About the time I was passing the lava stone wall overlooking Kailua Bay where Ali’I Drive bends away from the shoreline, the final participants were lining up.

I followed the last group after crossing from the shady side.

Slipping into the grounds of the Summer Palace, canopy tents had been set up on the lawn. Groups and vendors were promoting either their cause or their products. Food for lunch was popular. Beautiful local crafts and clothing items caught my eyes, but I had my shirts and no room in my luggage. Back out on Ali’I, I walked to Sarona Road to head inland, up the incline. My objective was the Safeway market. I’d overshot the quicker, more direct route, but got to the crest and large parking lot. Apparently rather new, the gas pumps were not functioning. I went into the market and grabbed multiple clear cellophane sleeves used for floral bouquet purchases. To these “free” items I added masking tape, a slice to turkey and 2 slices of bacon.

Returning to the resort, after cooking the bacon and dicing the turkey, I used the meat purchases to heighten my salad lunch. Out onto the lanai, I began using the masking tape to label the plumeria cuttings, and then put them into the sleeves, taping then shut. While packing my gear for my next leg, I watched the Oilers go down 3-0 to the Panthers. After backing up my photos from earlier, I charged the fully used battery in my camera, and then read until supper. I pulled out the leftovers from my first pasta and sausage dinner and enjoyed a glass of box wine.

Sunday was check-out day, and I had my bags in the rental and the car down at reception by 8:30. I stopped to refill the car’s tank at $5.04 a gallon, and headed to the car rental lot. After turning it in, I took the bags to check them in, only to learn that the noon flight was delayed. (I had been early, so was able to rearrange between the bags, getting the checked roller down from 54.5 to 49.5 pounds. Ag wasn’t visible, but I advised the counter staff that my bag needed to pass through inspection.) In fact, the early morning flight on United was similarly delayed due to equipment issues. Our flight would be nearly 5 hours late, as they needed an alternate plane from Los Angeles. With my car turned in, there was no option to joy ride, so I found a seat in the un-air-conditioned waiting lounge.

Recognizing that noontime would result in packed dining options, I headed into the Laniākea Café at 11. The grilled ahi platter, with a Kua Bay IPA were my meal. I returned to the covered open-air courtyard, knowing it would be a long afternoon for both United flights.

Both planes arrived within 30 minutes of one another, and the later flight watched as the other flight boarded and left. Ours deplaned, was cleaned, and we were boarded by 5:45. We then were advised a door in the rear needed attention, and that a further delay was waiting on food for the crew. Just as we were about to close the cabin door, the crew “timed out” and the flight was cancelled at 6:30. We had to leave the plane, retrieve our luggage, and figure out how to get to the mainland.

After getting my large roller back, I had a text from United – I had been booked on the red eye to LAX. (Better than some of the folks who were heading to SFO first!) I checked my bag again, went through security and decided to find food. Choosing the other café, I had a bacon cheeseburger and a couple of beers, commiserating with others from the canceled flight. Then I headed to the gate to await boarding for the 11:15pm flight.

Once aboard UA1147, my Economy Plus (longer leg room) wasn’t available and I was seated in 36D in steerage. Too cramped and crowded, there was no way I’d get any sleep. Our arrival in LAX at 7:30 was on time. Off the plane eventually, I still had to walk and walk to get to the carousel and wait on luggage. Deciding on a Lyft to my hotel, I had to ride a convenience shuttle to the “hired car” lot, and then spotted my driver. A good guy, steady and careful driver with good communication skills, we arrived at the Holiday Lodge at 9am.