Aboard the NCL Viva 6-16 June 2025 Part II
- KB Cook
- Dec 23, 2025
- 13 min read
Day 80 NCL Viva 6 – at sea
Our only day at sea, I was up and down to breakfast at 9, where my favorite special, Shakshuka was featured. I’d learned to get a toasted English muffin, and a small portion of bacon, knowing it would tide me over. I’d passed along my bag of laundry to Christian.
Having been underway for 10 hours, I went up top to watch the ship clear the western end of the Dardanelles Strait. Apparently, I left the Nikon in the room, and didn’t use either phone to record the passage.
After collecting the crossword puzzle, I headed to the theater for the “how to run a ship” presentation with the officers. This was followed by a midday Latitude Party, where those frequent passengers hobnobbed with the braid, sipping on free wine and eating sparse nibbles. I chatted with two couples, sharing some learned information and my observations. Popular decks up top had glass/plexiglass barriers to a height of about 7-feet; but on decks 18/19 and 7 there were unobstructed railings better for photography. The ship is 1000-feet long, which I believed as my cabin was forward and the dining room aft.
After teasing my stomach with light appetizers at the Latitude Party, I headed to Indulge for a late lunch. Chicken tikka, tuna Caesar, beef kebab, I kept pretty much to protein and ruffage. All were tasty and hit the spot. The Cruise Next team purported to offer a talk on what to do during upcoming port days, but just talked about future ships and cruise offerings.
Based on the terrific “bar crawl” that I’d had on the Jade in January, I had proposed that the solos do one. Suazo tried, but it was more of a “bar run” where we went to bars on decks 6,7,8 and then 17 (by which time I’d bailed) and we were responsible for getting our own drinks (rather than each bar pouring samples of a specialty mix. Pamela joined me at my specialty dinner at Los Lobos with a bottle of Rioja, all part of my Latitude awards.
I started with sopa and guacamole, which were passable, albeit the guac was a bit runny. My main was a pork burrito with red sauce, which really needed more shredded pork. Continuing to experiment, I tried the Tarteleta Maya, which underwhelmed. My first experience at Los Lobos on a NCL cruise, and probably my last. The meal merited a fail mark in my book, although my companion and I had a good time.
Back to the cabin, I backed up my photos from the second day in Istanbul. My journal notes that I was running out of the one prescription that I take – I’d apparently only grabbed the 90-day supply, not the 180, so I was down to just a few tablets. Since I had the bottle, I was hoping that I might get a refill, or at least enough to get me home. In the meantime, I started skipping days.
Day 81 NCL Viva 7 – Volos
A relatively early start, I grabbed a latté and cookie in the solo lounge before heading down to the theater at 7:45. Seven shore excursions were gathering there. The first group of 174 left at 7:30 for Meteora, an 8+ hour tour). The tour I was booked on, Volos and Makrinitsa, was next, leaving the theaters for 2 buses at 8. Solo, and last person to get group 5, I was at the end of the queue, and found all the seats except for the one behind the driver had been taken. So across from our guide Tina, I had a great view of where we were traveling.
From the port, we drove through Volos to the Athanasakio Archaeological Museum. A single-story building, painted yellow with white trim, it has high ceilings and a suggested path to ensure viewing the exhibits, dioramas, recovered antiquities; much behind glass in cases. The camera captured 80 photos, while my notes remark on the “nice marbles”. After an hour, with a brief look at the seaside park out front, we boarded the buses and headed north up the mountain to Makrinitsa.
A hillside town on Mt Pelion, we climbed from the drop-off point over rough stone walkways. The houses have slate roofs, with fragrant herbal gardens abounding. Good views were south to the Bay of Volos and (almost to) Mount Othrys, albeit a tad hazy, and to the west the village of Karla. [Even the Viva in port was visible.] The local merchants offered dried herbs, medicinal teas, in addition to the usual tourist items. With several others, I continued my climb to higher points, coming to the small village church and the village fountain. On the way, and beyond, stone stairways led to houses further up the slope.
Our time in Makrinitsa was unstructured, with the more nimble climbing to the heights, while those less mobile staying neared the initial shops and café. Returning a bit early, I spoke with Tina regarding my desire to visit St Nicholas Cathedral in Volos, and she told me about another Orthodox cathedral in Portaria that was adjacent to a monastery. Discussing whether I could get transport from there to the port if I exited during our descent, she said yes, and the plan was set. She warned me that it was probably not open.
Our bus loaded up, and the driver began the return trip. At a slight turnoff near the village, I scampered off and began my walk up into Portaria. Google Maps was somewhat confusing, so I popped into a curio shop to clarify my route, and then took a cut-through to get to the right street. On the hill to my right, behind a stone wall, rose a three-story clock and bell tower.
Finding an entry gate, I approached the Church of Saint Nicholas / Ιερός Ναός Αγίου Νικολάου, a two-story beige brick building. I found an open door and stumbled my way through an explanation of why I was there with the 3 older folks in the entry, two gentlemen and the woman cleaner. They were delighted to allow me to take pictures, and insisted that I take a bag of the mountain flowers used to make tea. While I think they confirmed that the church had been a cathedral, I haven’t been able to confirm it through research online.
Returning to the road, I noted a smaller chapel, which turned out to be the 13th century Panagia Portarea Church / Ιερός Ναός Παναγίας Πορταρέας, a lovely structure with amazing murals and icons. Per research, the local bishop had granted it to a widow, and the village name derives from its dedication.
Back to the central square, I located the taxi stand, but needed to call for a driver. Unsure of being able to make myself understood, I popped back into the shop I’d visited, and the proprietress made the call while I browsed and purchase a leather bracelet.
The taxi appeared and brought me to the Holy Metropolitan Church of Saint Nicholas / Ιερός Μητροπολιτικός Ναός Αγίου Νικολάου. [I’d spoken with a group of 4 who’d engaged a taxi from the port, with a fare of 70€; my meter fare was 17€.] The exterior of this cathedral is stunning, faced with blocks of varying shades of orange, tan and white, with clay tile roofing. With a separated clock and bell tower (similar to that in Portaria), the building sits on flat land three blocks from the waterfront.
A square footprint, it occupies the block, rotated 45° from the city grid and faces near west. Its front façade mimics the 7 panels of the iconostasis, the main entry a wooden door. Muraled icons cover every surface of the walls, arches and dome within. With mounted small icons, a wooden rail limits access to the sanctuary. I found the dome’s images to be among the more stunning that I’d visited.
Back onto the street, I began my walk back to the ship. As I hadn’t had a serious walk to that point, it was refreshing in the bright cool sunlight. I passed a KTEL storefront, and went in to see if I could purchase a ticket for the bus ride I would take at the end of the cruise, to no avail. When I boarded the ship, I headed to the Local to get an order of fish and chips without the chips (which came anyway.)
I read on the top deck until the solos met, Suazo running a checkerboard game. The group left for dinner (I was still feeling late lunch), so I collected the crossword puzzle and watched the sail-away out of the harbor across the Pagasetic Gulf into the passage to the Aegean Sea. There was cellular coverage, so I ran the battery down on the “good” phone until I went and snagged an order of barbecue chicken wings.
My plan was to attend the 10pm presentation of Beetlejuice, the Musical in the ship’s theater. I found a loftier seat, settled back, and found that it was over-amplified with lyrics accelerated so as to be nearly unintelligible. The show ran long, so I headed to bed without journaling or backing up my photos.
Day 82 NCL Viva 8 – Santorini
Friday the thirteenth, and this was my fourth visit to this gem in the Aegean, a bit more than 2 weeks after the tour had stayed there for 2 nights. It is a tender port, where passengers are delivered to the base of a steep cliff. Excursions are couriered by coach buses, while the unescorted are faced with climbing, riding a donkey, or queueing for the funicular. Originally, I’d signed up for an excursion to Akrotiri with a wine tasting, but cancelled my ticket. In hindsight, I probably would have enjoyed the return to the archeological site.
Starting about 7:30, the Jamaican tour director began announcing the ticketed tender boat’s countdown, which continued until about 9. Her patter continued, where she dropped gerund’s trailing “g” and swallowing random consonants. Finding it irritating, but being unable to escape the PA system, I found some peace with a light breakfast in the solo lounge. I relaxed and updated the journal with memories of my day in Volos. Then up to get the crossword puzzle, and I stayed on Deck 17 in the shade to get through a Friday’s emails. I got a few pictures of the island and harbor, including the Greek Orthodox cathedral.
About 1 I headed to Indulge, taking pictures in the near empty atrium space. Guacamole and chips, Asean noodles, chorizo and cake comprised my lunch.
At 4:30 I dropped the camera in my cabin, and headed down to Commodore for a gin and tonic. The solos gathered there at 5 and Suazo led the group through ‘80’s trivia. We had a late departure (10pm), so many were still on shore, so 13 of us headed to dinner, and I was at a table of 4. Rob (the forever traveler from Wyoming) and Susan (nurse from South Carolina) were noted companions. Dinner started with French onion soup, continued with Hungarian beef goulash, ending with chocolate mousse.
I took the phone up to the top deck and got some sunset and twilight shots of Santorini. Then heading to my cabin, I did some more journaling and noted that I was glad I had stayed aboard.
Day 83 NCL Viva 8 – Rhodes
While we were due into port at 8, the announcements began earlier, so I was up when the clearance was broadcast. I headed down to the dining room for breakfast, placed at an empty sharing table and ignored for 5-7 minutes before coffee. Fortunately, I was able to order the day’s special (and my favorite) shakshuka, with a muffin, juice and fruit plate.
By 9:30 I had walked off the ship and started into town. Excavations were evident alongside the pier. My preparatory research had 3 churches to visit, so I began heading towards the furthest, albeit top of my list. The Holy Catholic Cathedral of Saint Francis of Assisi was a half hour walk pretty much straight inland. Situated opposite woods, my approach took me along a wall topped with barbed wire. Surrounded by trees, the modern stone building was locked, and the Franciscans didn’t respond to the next door doorbell.
I came back into the older part of town through the gate in the city walls. Narrow stone walkways provided some shade from the sun overhead.
The former Cathedral of St. Mary in Castello / Our Lady of the Castle (Panayia) / Παναγία του Κάστρου is now a museum (5€ admission).
Along with being a Latin cathedral, it had been a Greek Orthodox church and a mosque. A nice space, 15th to 19th century icons were on display. I found the cloister garden to be most interesting with its recovered marbles.
Nearby and on the waterfront, the Church of the Annunciation of the Theotokos / Ιερός Καθεδρικός Ναός Ευαγγελισμού της Θεοτόκου is the Greek Orthodox cathedral on Rodos.
Across the marina where the Colossus had stood, the building faces south to a large plaza. With a water fountain in front, a separate belltower stands between the church and the water. A single-entry door, it is a long rectangular building. With three aisles, the dark vault is supported by decorated arches on pink marble columns. All the vertical surfaces have colorful icons displayed. Clear crystal chandeliers light the central aisle, leading to a white marble iconostasis. The cathedra, also in white marble, sists with its back to the west wall. This had not been on my list!
The final entry on the list proved a challenge, The “Former Cathedral of St John the Baptist” seemed to be a wedge building along the defensive walls. The entry door is alongside a set of stone steps to the top of the Byzantine walls, and appears to be a storage building. The bronze sign alongside dates it to the 15th century, with no opening times. Plus it was locked. Further research points to the location of the Annunciation Cathedral, or the Knights Hospitaller’s Church of St John of the Collachium, which never was a cathedral.
Thoroughly enjoying Rodos, I decided to have lunch locally. Finding The Mezeklikia, an outdoor restaurant under two established banyan trees, I grabbed a table. Through the trees I could see the ruins of the Recep Pasha Mosque, which I’d explore after my meal.
Tzatziki, pastitsio and a beer, it certainly hit the spot. I wandered around the fenced off ruins, and then headed through town. I came to the ruins of Church of the Virgin Mary of the Burgh / Παναγία του Μπούργκου. Apparently, a popular tourist site, near the many shops, the signage hinted that there might have been a 13th century cathedral. A significant and large building, there’s no authentication I could find for that claim. Still, a most interesting site.
Wending my way through the city, I headed back to the ship and climbed to the 17th deck to get the crossword puzzle and then up two more to get shots of the island and port.
I climbed down to the cabin and dropped my camera and grabbed my journal. Down to deck 8, I sat outside and was joined by Pamela, with whom I conversed until we headed to the solo meet-up. Napkin folding was our assigned task for the day, triggering both eyerolling and competition. I had plans for dinner with Rob at Cagney’s, so we watched the group head to dinner.
Cagney’s has proved to be one of my two favorite “specialty dining” venues on NCL ships (the other is the French Le Bistro.) Great French onion soup to start, I followed with the wedge salad with extra blue cheese. We both got prime rib which came with asparagus spears.
For dessert I asked for the OMG cheesecake. We split up, and I wound up speaking with a staff member from Barranquilla, Columbia, which I had visited in January. Then I headed down to the theater for the Magician’s show.
Back to my cabin, Christian had returned my laundry, so I put it away. After updating my journal, I crashed.
Before ending this, here are more photos I took during a great day in Rhodes:
Day 84 NCL Viva 9 – Heraklion, Crete
Up late, so I had “breakfast” in the solo lounge: 2 cups of coffee and a petit pain au chocolat. Two Englishmen were there and we talked a bit about photography, and AI; I retrieved my Nikon to show them what I used. When they left, I backed up Rhodes.
Then I climbed to the Observation Lounge to get the daily puzzle, and walked down to Deck 8. There I sat in the shade, completed the puzzle, and did Internet using my mobile connection on Crete.
Back to Indulge for lunch: chicken tostada, DanDan noodles, salsiccia (fresh sausages) and datiles con Alexandria (wrapped dates). Over lunch I chatted with a trio from Malta, who had also decided to stay aboard.
Afterwards, on the ship’s WiFi and “WiFi calling”, I spent 20 minutes with trying to straighten out my September cruise payment again. Then I returned to the shaded deck and read until 5.
Back in my cabin, I began pulling together my gear, preparing to pack for debarkation the next day, and to get ready for the final solo gathering. Suazo divided the group in two with a “name the song” competition. We’d formed a WhatsApp group for communication, which would be how we stayed in touch once the cruise was over. Down to our farewell dinner, where I had a spinach salad, seafood brochette and sorbet. Rob graced me with a glass of Chianti, while a bottle of bubbly was passed around the table.
Back to the cabin, I finished packing and had my luggage out in the hall by 9. (Earliest I’ve made that deadline ever!) A quick trip to the solo lounge for ice proved fruitless, as the machine was broken. But it gave me an opportunity to speak with a few chaps who were lounging there, as we discussed our observations of the ship and the cruise.
Day 85 Athens – NCL Cruise ends
Announcement began over the PA at 6:30, encouraging the departing passengers to leave the ship orderly, by luggage tag color. After bathing and dressing, I headed to the lounge for a last light bite and coffee, and then finished packing the small roller and was out of the cabin by 8. I carried the smaller roller from Deck 12 to Deck 4, where I waited until Brown was called. Easily off, zigzagging ramps to get to the terminal. Luggage location didn’t take long, and I was soon out to wait in the taxi rank queue. Fifteen minutes later, a young Romanian was driving me through Piraeus and Athens to the bus station. He overcharged me by about 15€, but he had a sad story to justify it.
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