Day 8 – Transit: Trinidad via ... Ciego de Avila
... (continuing from my previous blog)
Leaving Ciego de Avila at 3:30, it wasn’t until 2 hours later we arrived in Trinidad. All my photos taken while we rolled along, around Sancti Spiritus and the mountains of Pitajones, are a blur – Pepe was making great speed. Still it was nearly dark in town when we arrived in Trinidad. Our orientation talk/walk was over uneven rough cobbled stone streets, not the safest move. We had to climb a slight incline to get to the historic old plaza, within sight of numerous museums and a church. Still Adrian persisted, turning himself back into a history teacher.
We found a restaurant as we descended the incline from the plaza and then climbed from the street up a level to its terrace. My first choice was pizza (I figured someone somewhere in Cuba could make a decent pizza) which was unavailable, so I settled for a sandwich, which turned out to be a chorizo hoagie with too much bread. To accompany, a michelada, a mixed drink of lime juice, Bloody Mary mix and beer. Upon calling for the check, a power outage occurred, so we settled up by flashlight and made our way back. The street layout is mainly rectilinear, and shops were open despite the lack of electricity.
After backing up the photos, I set the fan on and read a bit. If the power would return, the AC would blast cold air, and I might have to adjust the temperature. We had booked a jungle hike at Cubatur on our way to the orientation talk, so we needed to be back at that office by 9:15 the following morning.
Days 9 and 10 – Trinidad
Tuesday afternoon at Cubatur we all booked a “forest hike” to Parque Guanayara. The cost was $55US, and had to be paid with a credit/debit card. Four of us were participating, and we hit a challenge – cards from the US were not functional. Fortunately, Dhong’s card was Romanian-based, and she was able to pay for us, with Robin and me reimbursing her in cash; I don’t know how Mei settled. In any case, Mei and Dhong were at breakfast Wednesday morning which proved to be an elaborate spread. They had walked up the few doors between our hostels, and breakfast was served on the ground floor. I dropped off my laundry.
With a 9:30 departure, we four walked around the corner and down to Cubatur. An open air 3-axle vehicle was parked outside its door, and our tour group began climbing the steep four steps to take hard seats. Twelve of us paying customer took pairs of seats: a German couple from Ulm; a French couple from Saumur and Provence, living in Den Haag; a Romanian couple (he lives in Norway); an older Italian (Napoli) man and his local female companion; our team of Mei, Dhong, Robin and me. Four locals who worked at the site were in the back row, including the woman who would be our guide.
We set off on time and the driver took us out of Trinidad and into the countryside. We began climbing hills, eventually stopping at an observation deck with views to the south and the Caribbean, up about 100 wide stone steps. Agave plants dotted the grounds. We had about 10 minutes on this stop. Back on the truck, the driver continued our climb and a half-hour later we stopped at an information center. Here we were introduced to pictures of native fauna, including the jutías or palm rats. Up the hill from the center was a large modern multistory building now used as a mental health facility. A large stone circular installation filled the huge grass circle out front – it turned out to be a sundial. Our guide explained the cultivation of coffee, its harvesting and processing before we were offered the opportunity to buy a “cuppa java.”
After a half hour we again climbed into the truck and began our climb over twisting and rough roads. A quick stop after 20 minutes at a roadside stand allowed us to purchase souvenirs and taste some rather wonderful fudge, some of which I brought home. The house associated with this palm-leaves topped stand was faced with squares of clay tile imbedded in concrete artistically – it was a well-kept residence and appealed to my esthetic sense. Paintings were also on display, both of classic cars and narrow vertical multi-scene strips with a cartoon feel.
Another half hour climbing and descending rugged narrow roads through the forest, we arrived at the starting point for our hike about 2 hours after leaving the city. Advised that the truck would meet us at the far end, we began the hike over a level dirt path through a grassy stretch. Very quickly we left the bright sunshine and entered the cooler park of dappled greenery. Our guide pointed out various plantings along the way – a banana tree in bloom, a succulent up in a tree used for naturally treating diabetes, coffee, a nut/berry about the size of a baseball which I didn’t get the name of.
The packed dirt path took us up and down the sides of the hill, occasionally offering vista points into the surrounding forest. Wooden railings with logs or stone steps provided support as we wended along stream beds and dense growth. After about 2km and an hour hiking we arrived at the first set of waterfalls.
There we met our initial log “bridge”, which we crossed in single file.
Ten minutes to get pictures (lots of selfies were taken), we continued to walk along rushing streams, past thick stands of bamboo, another waterfall and across a rapids in a stream, stepping carefully between and on slippery rocks. Much of the path was level or gradual, but I was the straggler as I continued to take photos.
Eighty minutes into the hike we came down an incline to a wide expanse. Mild waterfalls had filled a basin and offered a spot for swimming. With a tarp-surrounding changing area, about half the group got into the water after we crossed another longer log bridge. I spent the three-quarter hour break sitting on a bench in the shade, sipping the water I’d brought, relaxing.
Once the swimmers had changed into dry clothing, we continued our hike, with our guide promising another 2km. Following streams, crossing via logs and planks, and the infrequent climb and descent, at one point the guide spotted the Cuban national bird, the Tocororo.
I managed to zoom in while the bird was in the sunlight, seeing its bright plumage of the Cuban flag. Other’s shots weren’t quite so fortunate. By the halfway point, I was seriously lagging the group, particularly as the guide’s son had joined us and, as an 8-year old, was setting a rapid (billy goat) pace. However, I just continued my attempts to stay in sight, capturing scenes of verdant nature and enjoying the experience. Of particular note, there were several stretches of wide, slowly moving streams where the sun broke through, and large boulders which had tumbled down the inclines which I captured with the Nikon.
An hour after leaving the swimming hole (and almost 100 pictures), we came around a bend and were faced with a pair of long narrow suspension plank bridges. (Centinelas del Rio Melodioso) For me, this was nothing new, as I’ve been on similar during my zipline experiences earlier this year. For those new to this experience, most moved with their partners, as the crossing would bounce with each step. Ruben, the Romanian, took multiple videos as members made their way to the stable center stretch before strutting to the far side. And, again, this was another selfie site.
The end of the hike, we came to a structure where we would have lunch family-style. Chickens were pecking away on the lawn as we slowly filled one end of a long table. I convinced the group to pose for group photos, and even joined them (our guide took those). While I didn’t make any notes about the meal, I do remember that we had several options for the main course, and we were at the table for about an hour before climbing back on the truck for the journey back to Trinidad.
We made a number of stops on the way down, dropping off staff members near their homes, including our guide and her son. We even picked up one or two locals, giving them rides along the route. As we rolled downward, the sun was setting over the mountains to the west, allowing me a few shots – the driver was moving rapidly (gravity helps) and many of my pictures were blurry. By 5:45 we were back to Cubatur to unload, the sun having set during the previous half hour.
For this expedition, I took slightly more than 400 pictures, and after filtering out the blurry (motion-affected), the excessive “artistic” forest scenes, I pushed 225 up to the NikonImage site. Ruben had started a WhatsApp group (he felt email was too retro) for me to share my pictures. When he returned home, he shared another 20 pictures and videos, which I’ve added to that shared album.
Back in Trinidad where the power was out, we four walked back together to our hostels. I took a shower and washed the dirt off my pant legs. I needed a bottle of water, so I walked to the end of the block and found a government store which had plastic bottles of water in multiple sizes for sale. Getting a single 1.5 liter, I was stymied – I had to use a credit card to purchase, and my card was blocked. So I walked next store to the Floridita bar (a copy of the Hemingway bar in Havana) to have a cervesa (Parranda) before getting my water, and then headed back to our 7:30 dinner rendezvous.
Across from Cubatur was restaurant Adito, one of the better eateries in town and offering Italian food. It had pizza on the menu, and I was really looking forward to that. However, I ordered a salad and spaghetti carbonara with a shot of Santiago 12, a rum (not really) similar to Adrian’s favorite of Santiago 11. While we were dining, a couple came in and their wardrobe became our topic of discussion. She was quite elegant, while he wore an unironed short-waisted oversized shirt. They schmoozed, although we speculated they were too similar in looks to not be siblings. Personally, I found the meal barely adequate, not like the versions I’d had in either Italy or the US. On our way back to the hostel, Adrian took us into a shop. There, where I would purchase cigars, I was treated to a taste of Santiago 11 – which was superb!
Wednesday morning we awoke to power which stayed on most of the daylight. Breakfast was slightly lighter in content (we hadn’t consumed everything the day before). My laundry was returned, clean, dry and folded, even fit into the laundry bag I’d provided. As a group we walked to CubaTur to see what activities were available (none) and then strolled up the hill to the plaza with the big church. On a neighboring tree-shaded square, a choreographer was working on a piece with several dancers; a handful of young boys were engaged with a soccer ball; and a young man sat nearby. He had a “Free Walking Tour” umbrella, so I inquired on his tour and schedule. Marco led an hour tour, starting in a few minutes, so we all decided to join him.
Marco took us around to several sites, explaining that he and his family are practitioners of the African religion. He regaled us with stories of Trinidad and Cuba’s past while we stood in the shade on squares. Pointing at well-kept colonial buildings, he expounded with scandals and legends. We passed a bar where its ceiling was filled with hanging banknotes. As we walked, Marco recommended restaurants, pointed out open galleries to return to for a visit, and ended in the elegant Plaza Cespedes. Its season-themed garden quadrants faced the colonial administration building He ended with the explanation that it was historically actually two squares, the barren block cattycorner had been for the slaves, who, had they crossed, would have been killed.
We were near the ice cream shop, and Mei and Dhong had been craving the delicacy. Too early for the rest of us, they got their cones and walked out smiling. Our route took us past el Floridita, back by the casita, where we ran into Adrian. We continued to the square where we’d begun Marco’s tour. The dance troupe had grown in size, the work much more complex. Across the Pazuelo del Cristo was the National Struggle against Bandits Musuem, housed in an old church/convent/cloister. In addition to interesting art, historic pieces from the times of pirates, and examples of revolutionary warfare, there is a 5-story belltower which we all climbed. Phenomenal view of the city and countryside, we all spent time getting views into our cameras.
As it was approaching noon, we decided to have lunch. Taberna La Botija looked open, but staff were still eating and we were sent away for 10 minutes. Across was an alternate, El Rin Tin Tin, which hadn’t gotten Adrian’s okay. The Dominican church’s gate was open following the late morning Mass, so we entered the Holy Trinity Church, where I was able to explain more Catholic theology to members of my team.
In each of the side chapels (this was a sizable building with three aisles lined with side altars) were dark-wood carved altarpieces honoring various saints. There was even La Caridad, a reproduction of the statue we’d seen in el Cobre. The stark white of the walls, columns and vault contrasted with the dark wood of the lecterns, pews and altars.
We’d spent enough time on the square and in the church that the restaurant was open. Seated at a picnic bench (difficult for most of us to climb into), we ordered off a limited menu. My meal was a chicken burrito with a Bucanero, served with guacamole and three sauces. The burrito was served open rather than rolled and, with some hot sauce, was pretty tasty.
We took a scenic stroll after lunch, stopping in several open-air markets to view the trinkets and goods on sale. I was snapping shots of the buildings and the classic cars, as we returned to the multi-level restaurant we’d visited the first night in Trinidad. I sat at the bar to have a snort of Santiago 11, refreshing my experience from the night before.
Carla and Robin returned to the pension to take naps, while Mei, Dhong and I headed to the shop Adrian had recommended to purchase cigars. For my sight-impaired neighbor Jim I’d offered to bring him a dozen Monte Cristos, which the salesman taped up in a box. He gave me a second Romeo y Julieta, matching the one from the evening before. While Les Chinoises were dickering over the cigar they’d buy, I purchased a bottle of Santiago 11, and was treated to a shot of Edmundo Dantes, a very limited edition bottle of Castro’s special rum. Feeling just slightly mellow, we returned around the corner to tuck away our purchases, and I sat in the lobby where the wifi was strong and did internet for an hour or so, and then took a brief nap. Back to the lobby, a group of about 30 came in for dinner on the upper terrace, while I burned through a data card.
The six of us had dinner in the front room en familia. The whole fish was then deboned by the staff, joining the dishes of lobster, crab, chicken and vegetables. As the evening darkened, the discussion drifted to wanting to hear the Cuban music up on the Escalinata de Trinidad near the top of the city. I elected to escort Mei and Dhong, and we arrived just before the announced 9pm starting time.
After wandering in a nearby gallery (where there were surrealist paintings, prints and sculptures of coffee pots), we sat on the church entrance until 9:30 (we weren’t about to pay for a table on the stairs), and without hearing the music, the three of us bailed and returned to our residences. But not without my stopping at the cigar store for a final tasting of the Santiago 11. (Mei seemed convince that I had to be drunk.) The power had been off through dinner, but came back on facilitating packing for the morning departure.
Days 11 and 12 – Remedios
Breakfast was elegant and filling. Concluding my packing, we all joined Pepe and the bus in the street and got loaded by 9. We rolled around a few corners, near Plaza Cespedes, where we stopped in a multi-generational pottery foundry. We’d had a traditional Trinidad drink, so I bought a clay cup used to serve it – however, on getting home, I found it had a slow leak.
Continuing on to the Valle de los Ingenios, a hacienda/plantation located to the east of Trinidad included a grand mansion and a tall lookout tower in the area of vast sugar plantations. (I’d hoped to tour the full park, but it wasn’t an option while there.)
