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2025 Leafpeeper: Pre-cruise

6 days ago
5 min read

Near the end of 2024, after returning from my two weeks in Cuba, I booked a cruise with Princess for an itinerary from Boston to Québec. I’d focused travel that year on the Western Hemisphere, and knew that I had a lengthy trip to Europe on the books for 2025 but also wanted to add more Canadian cathedrals to my list.

BTW: "Leafpeeper" is a term used by locals in tourist areas where visitors travel to view the color changes in autumnal tree foliage.

 

As I began developing the before and after itinerary specifics, I reached out to my friend Joan who lives in Rhode Island. I asked if I could visit before heading to Boston and she agreed. My old roommate from New York City now lives outside Montréal, so I messaged her inviting her to reconnect. My trip filled a 25-day calendar. Before the spring-summer Europe trip, I booked my flights north and south, and six shore excursions with Princess.

 

After I returned from Paris, I began booking lodgings, car rentals, and a few more city tours. Meanwhile, I was seeing doctors, and determined that I was due for a hip replacement, but with this trip, and my 2026 itinerary, it would have to wait a year.

 

Day 1 Sarasota to Providence

After Bobbie picked me up in Ventura Village at 5am, we headed from Venice north to the Sarasota-Bradenton Airport. The Southwest flight to Chicago Midway had plenty of seats, I sat with a woman from Phoenix and we had a good conversation over the empty middle seat as we were flown north.

  • Concourse in Chicago Midway Airport
  • "Whiate Sox" Bar at Chicago Midway Airport
  • View of Southwest jets at Chicago Midway Airport

In the terminal, I checked out the food options, finding everything seriously overpriced. I had some bread and cheese in my backpack and ate that. After a half hour, the eastbound flight to Providence boarded. A bit more full, I still had an empty seat between me and the non-talking dude who was on the aisle.

 

Arriving at 1:30 at T.F. Green, I headed to baggage claim, grabbed my bag, and found Joan. We strolled out of the terminal, got into her car, and headed south to her house. I hauled my bags up the stairs to the front guest room, and then we got back in the car to get lunch.

  • Entrance to Top of the Bay Restaurant
  • Lobster roll and hush puppies lunch at Top of the Bay

At Top of the Bay, I had half a lobster roll and two hush puppies while we caught up with our travels. Joan then drove around Kingstown, giving me a view of the harbor.

  • View of Greenwich Bay from Warwick,RI beach
  • View of Greenwich Bay from Warwick,RI beach
  • View of Greenwich Bay from Warwick,RI beach

Next, we pulled into Gooseneck Vineyards. I tasted an Oregon pinot noir, a Portuguese red blend, and a Washington cabernet sauvignon. I found the offerings fair, but had hoped for local grape products.

  • Approaching Gooseneck Vineyards, North Kingstown, RI
  • Winery buildings, Gooseneck Vineyards, North Kingstown, RI
  • Tasting room, Gooseneck Vineyards, North Kingstown, RI
  • Menu of tasting offerings, Gooseneck Vineyards, North Kingstown, RI
  • Wines I sampled at Gooseneck Vineyards, North Kingstown, RI

 

As we contiued drivings around westeern Rhode Island, we made a number of stops so that I could get some pictures - here's a stream of them without captions:

On the way back to the house, we stopped for bagels at Dunkin. While the TV was on for background noise, we supped on chevre with parmesan chips and sauvignon blanc. I was able to earn my keep by changing the batteries in her car keys, before we called it a night.

 

Day 2 Rhode Island

Up and showered by 8, we had bagels with peanut butter with our coffee and juice. Joan had an errand to do, dropping off her custom designed handbags at her dentist. From there we headed to visit former Florida neighbors, Dawn and Bill, collecting a dessert on the way.

  • Bill and dawn's home
  • Outbuilding and side yard at Bill and Dawn's
  • Floral planting at Bill and Dawn's

Their house is over the state line into Massachusetts, a large home set in the woods. It feels very New England-y. We had a delightful lunch of chicken salad and a salad, all of us catching up after being apart several years.

 

Coming back through eastern Rhode Island, we stopped at Sakonnet Vineyard. Weathered wooden buildings, wide open fields with stacked fieldstone walls, Adirondack chairs, and trees threatening to change color, the venue is stunning. While I went inside to sample their offerings, Joan stayed outside to draw and paint. With a charcuterie platter that had 3 cheeses, grapes, apricots seeds and crackers, I had 5 tastes (bubbly, rose, and 3 reds.)

  • Entry sign to Sakonnet Vineyard, Little Compton, RI
  • Winery building, Sakonnet Vineyard, Little Compton, RI
  • Private tasting room, Sakonnet Vineyard, Little Compton, RI
  • Tasting room, Sakonnet Vineyard, Little Compton, RI
  • Offering menu, Sakonnet Vineyard, Little Compton, RI
  • Charcuterie board, Sakonnet Vineyard, Little Compton, RI
  • Red wine tasted, Sakonnet Vineyard, Little Compton, RI
  • Picnic grounds, Sakonnet Vineyard, Little Compton, RI
  • Picnic grounds, Sakonnet Vineyard, Little Compton, RI
  • Fire pit and seating, Sakonnet Vineyard, Little Compton, RI

 

After crossing Jamestown Island, we made a quick stop at Trader Joe’s for bread and snacks. I caught up with email while Joan went about her chores. My backup (Luxembourg) mobile phone, a Samsung A14, was not picking up signal (fortunately I had my primary phone), so I popped it open and reseated the SIM card. Unfortunately, that had no effect. We set alarms for the morning and crashed.

 

Day 3 Martha’s Vineyard

We were up at 7:15 and out of the house by 8, heading to Quonset Point in North Kingstown to catch the ferry to Oak Bluffs on Martha’s Vineyard. Leaving the car in the parking yard, we collected tickets and boarded the 9am ferry.

  • Rhode Island Fast Ferry at dock in North Kingstown
  • Foggy view of lighthouse, Narragansett Bay
  • Pier approaching Oak Bluffs on Martha's Vineyard

At 10:45 we debarked and set off for the Methodist Tent Circle. Joan has been there with some frequency, and has painted many of these quaint homes, including them in a desktop calendar. It was near the end of tourist season, and she was seeing retailers who were offering these collectibles. I roamed the circle around the old “meeting tent”, fascinated by the clever application of color the owners had used to enliven the exteriors of these homes. Joan pointed out which ones had been included in the calendar, and, while I roamed with my camera, she sketched a few more. Many had lush floral gardens, a few where the greenery had gotten out-of-control.

  • Exterior of open-air Methodist Tent building
  • Interior view of the Methodist Tent building on Martha's Vineyard
  • Houses along the Methodist Text Circle at Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
  • Houses along the Methodist Text Circle at Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
  • House along the Methodist Text Circle at Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
  • House along the Methodist Text Circle at Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
  • House along the Methodist Text Circle at Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
  • House along the Methodist Text Circle at Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
  • House along the Methodist Text Circle at Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
  • Houses along the Methodist Text Circle at Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
  • House along the Methodist Text Circle at Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
  • House along the Methodist Text Circle at Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
  • Garden at a house on the Methodist Tent Circle
  • House along the Methodist Text Circle at Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
  • House along the Methodist Text Circle at Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
  • House along the Methodist Text Circle at Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
  • House along the Methodist Text Circle at Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
  • House along the Methodist Text Circle at Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
  • House along the Methodist Text Circle at Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
  • House along the Methodist Text Circle at Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard

 

By lunchtime, my stomach was gurgling, and we headed into the Offshore Ale Company. A brewpub, the bar backed onto the brewery, viewed through windows behind the dozen pulls. We split a plate of baked garlic brie, which we both agreed was yummy.

  • Offshore Ale Company bar
  • Baked garlic brie at Offshore Ale Company
  • view through window of brewery, Offshore Ale Company

From there, out onto Ocean Avenue where we looked at the newer, much more expensive and larger houses. They faced out onto Ocean Park, an expanse of manicured grass hosting several gaggles of Canada geese.

  • View out over Ocean Park, Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
  • Exterior detail, house on Ocean Park, martha's Vineyard
  • Exterior detail, house on Ocean Park, martha's Vineyard
  • Exterior detail, house on Ocean Park, martha's Vineyard
  • Exterior detail, house on Ocean Park, martha's Vineyard
  • Houses facing Ocean Park, Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard

 

Joan is a car buff, so when we headed towards Our Lady of the Sea Church, a few running vintage vehicles caught her eye. The church was closed, and my eye began catching detail features of the houses we passed.

  • Classic automobile on the streets of Oak Bluffs
  • Front facade, Our Lady of the Sea Church, Oak Bluffs
  • Detail: angel figure on corner of former church buliding, Oak Bluffs
  • Mural of a handful of birds, Oak Bluffs
  • Stained-glass window in private home, Oak Bluffs

As Joan collected unsold calendars, I walked across the circle and found an open door to the United Methodist Church, so I did get a few inside shots.

  • Exterior facade, Oak Bluffs United Methodist Church, Martha's Vineyard
  • Sanctuary, Oak Bluffs United Methodist Church, Martha's Vineyard
  • Stained-glass window, Oak Bluffs United Methodist Church, Martha's Vineyard

 

As we walked back to the ferry pier, we watched the ship from Woods Hole leave before our Rhode Island Fast Ferry arrived with the afternoon/evening load.

  • Marina harbor at Oak Bluffs
  • Rhode Island Fast Ferry arriving in Oak Bluffs
  • Leaving the harbor of Oak Bluffs
  • One of many lighthouses en route from Martha's VIneyard to the mainland
  • Evening skyline en route to mainland
  • Sailing regatta spotted en route
  • Evening sky over Narragansett Bay
  • Newport lighthouse with bridge in background

Back in Kingston, Joan stopped at T-Mobile for me, as I challenged their tech with my stubborn, non-connecting phone. He reasoned that because I bought an unlocked phone in 2017 in Europe, it was possible that Samsung was now flagging it as illegal and blocking service? Marcus offered to check and give me a call the following afternoon.

 

We headed to the nearby Carrabba’s for supper, where I had lasagna. Back at the house, I rang T-Mobile from my primary phone, staying on hold waiting on a live person for 2 hours, before hanging up. We’d be up at 7 and on our way to the train in the morning.

 

Day 4 Boston

Up as planned, after pb and bagel and coffee, I was loading my bags into Joan’s car and we were off, heading into Providence. At the Amtrak Station, I stood in the lounge as seats were limited, but I did find a surface to place my journal and write an update of the day before. The low lighting was conducive to many sleeping across multiple seats. The train was announced and I headed to the platform, and we left promptly at 9:17.


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